New 5th wheel tower needs your info...
 

I've got a '05 F250 6.0 4WD crew cab, shortbed and am looking to get a 27+' fifth wheel for very occaisional trips, mostly to tow a rig down to Baja and leave there on the plot.
I've got all kinds of towing experience with boats on the hitch of my now gone, F350 but the fifth wheel thing is new to me and I blame the new gal and her dislike of tents...

So what should I be looking for in a hitch for a yet, unpurchased trailer? I get that not knowing the weight is going to be a factor, but I hear of rolling hitches and this and that...

Thanks in advance.

Also depends on the front end shape of the (new to you or new) 5th wheel. The very new ones have designed cut outs to the front that allows for safe right angle turns while some are still the old boxy design.

If you buy the boxy one, you will require a sliding hitch... manual OR automatic to slid the pin rearward to miss hitting the front corner of the RV into the cab of the truck. Sliding hitch= more $.

A couple of things... A shortbed will probably require a "Slider" hitch. Of course mounted in the proer location in the bed. A slider hitch allows you to slide it back when you get to the site and make the sharp turns without hitting the truck cab. I believe you should have a slider hitch. You must lock it in the forward position as you go down the road and then when you get to the site, release it so it can slide back.

I have a Pull-rite hitch that automatiaclly adjust as the truck turns. But these are more expensive (heavier) and if this is a one time deal, then I think a regular slider hitch will work and be cheaper. Might see if you can rent one from a camping store if this is a one time deal. But they would need to drill and everything so not sure if that makes much sence. Look for a used one, the bid thing to me is in the proper placement. The people that did mine were spot on.

Weight... A question I have asked many times. A 27' trailer can weigh from 10,000 to 25,000+. So no one can answer that question.

But the answer is simple. "We Gots to Know the numbers" Go to the scales. Fill up your tank, put everything in it, including people (you might leave some things out for the next trip), go to a CAT scale. Weight the truck and get the front and rear weights.

Get your trucks towing and weight numbers from this site ( I assume they are here), look at the truck tires and see the max load (and at what pressure) each tire can handle (wheels as well, (stamped on the wheel itself) but more than likely they will be more than the tires). This is the maximum that you can safely put on those tires. Added together is the maximum rear and hitch weight you can carry. Also, I am assuming the tires are in good shape as well. If not, get new tires and size them properly for your load and your wheels. You could possibly look at better wheels if the 5er you want is that much more weight.

Then look at the trailer and see what it's dry weight is. Dry weight is dry, without options or "Stuff" so you can add 1000+ lbs to the dry weight. And I would expect with a 5er, more like 2000 lbs. Hopefully about 20% of that total trailer weight will be on the pin (hitch) weight and should be added to the trucks rear amount. Now you know about how much trailer you should handle.

You can also work this backwards and look at your tire max. and add the two rears. Subtract the current trucks rear weight and that is the max (MAX!!!) you should have on the hitch. The hitch is 20% so multiply that number by 5 and you will get the WET weight of the trailer you can tow.

Once you purchase go back to the scales with a full tank and a simular stuff in the truck and weigh again. The difference between the numbers and the toal amount of each of the front and rear need to be below the tires / wheels maximum weight

Remember, it is not really the amount of weight you can pull. It is the amount of weight you can STOP!!!. Good truck and trailer brakes (as well as thinking ahead when stopping) is another thing to keep in mind.

Eric

You might even consider having someone else take care of it. uship.com. One time deal maybe cheaper. Make sure they ae insured.

+1 for pull rite. I have a pullrite super glide 16k and have had no problems.

What I was getting at, if the 5'er he buys already has the new cutouts on the front sides, he doesn't even need to LOOK at a slider..... saves SOME bucks!

Zero in the the 5th wheel...then look for the hitch that is rated for the job. I'd opt for a slider myself.

Also go by the wet weight of the 5er. ignore what they say the pin wt is. Use the 20% of gross method.

Thanks all for the insights.
I get that having the trailer to fit makes the nest sense, though during the saving for and search, I figure I can keep my eye out for a deal on a PullRite.

I love my Pull-Rite 18K as well. I paid more money to get a hitch that I didn't have to remember to manually slide. Sounds stupid, but I simply don't have to worry about it in very tight gas stations and other places. I saw too many times when a person didn't think they need to release the side and have a damaged cab and 5er.

Pull-Rite, more comfort, more money, more weight, and a very good product.

Eric

Do they put the pin under the front overhang anymore? I know they used to. If you have a 5th wheel with the extended pin you really don't need a sliding hitch but could be helpful. You can get into the trailer with ANY hitch on too tight a turn.

Good, watchful eyes and paying attention are the best, especially when backing and turning.

With everything going on lately, or not in my case while the 1%'ers waffle about their remodeling jobs, I figure I can at least keep an eye out for a PullRite on ebay and craigslist. There are more than a few guys out there like me that are parting out their gear while the economy decides what it's going to do...

So I went out to the truck and noted that the GVWR is 10000, the front is 5600 and the rear is 6100 lbs. With these numbers then, I'll go and do the same eyeballing at trailers.

For you trailer owners, what do these numbers equate to in terms of trailer size and length and yes, I know that one manufacturer will differ greatly from another. Ideally I'd like to get something in the neighborhood of 27'-29' with a slideout at the living area.

Thanks again to all for the help, I figure my questions are shared by more than a few others here.

Stick with something around 14K and I think you will be fine...that should get you a length well into the 30 foot range if you want it.

+1 on the slider. I have a manual slider (Reese Signature 18k) and I have had to use it a few times. I mean I really had to use it or I'd have been stuck. Just a few weeks ago had to make a U turn, truck was 90deg to the trailer.

I would have been better off with the pull-rite however. Sometimes I wish I would have bit the bullet and bought that one - don't have to think. With the manual slider you have to plan / think ahead, because to use it you have to get out and pull a lever, etc. Pull rite does it all for you, like when it's pouring rain and people are waiting on you etc...

Yeah, I got you on the biting the bullet- thing. I just looked online at the tab for a PullRite. I suppose the ease of just bolting up and going is enough to warrant it.

One thing about the reese signature series and the newer reese units that Ford is using is the hidden hitch feature.

I looked at the pullrite myself but wanted a completely flat bed when the hitch was removed. So the reese manual slider was the one I choose.

Just to clairfy, My Pull-Rite can be removed, and the pins simply turn and remove. So I have a completely flat bed when the hitch is removed. Not sure what the previous poster is mentioning.

Eric