Originally Posted by KingRanch2004
(Post 12052608)
52psi of boost is pretty dag on impressive. There are a lot of forums on here about the hoses blowing off. They get oily and just blow and a ton of people have experienced this problem. Just google it and you will find the forums.
That is a stock issue, to me it read like you connecting it to your powermax. |
Originally Posted by tex25025
(Post 12052791)
That is a stock issue, to me it read like you connecting it to your powermax.
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Originally Posted by tex25025
(Post 12052605)
ARP Studs
Ford Gaskets ITP's Fuel Regulated Return Fluidampner FASS 150/180 Suncoast Heavy Duty Rebuild 64mm Non-VGT Turbo Spartan Stage I Injectors (155mm^3) Spartan Phalanx Tuner (doubles as OBD-II gauge) TFT, ECT, Boost, Volts, Oil PSI, EGT, and Fuel PSI gauges horsepowers. may you, and they, live long and prosper. the tranny, torque converter and input shaft is >$5k. which, if you look at it objectively, is a good deal for a strong transmission, when a stock rebuild with labor is over $4k, depending on the gouging index of the shop. the phalanx tuner i do find interesting... is the matt that writes tunes for them the same matt that everyone sings the praises of on here, or is that a coincidence? |
Oil soaked boots are easy to spot. If you have that problem then you should know it and would have been easy enough to mention. Since you didn't mention it, the assumption is that it is not an issue for you and you have another problem. In one of my other posts I mentioned not only the turbo, but also the EBP sensor (but I also mentioned a ccv re-route which will eliminate the oil in the intake). You also need to be sharing what boost numbers you run ........ BTW - there have been posts about bad PowerMax turbos right out of the box. Not a lot of them, but enough.
I have been around a long time and I know of no one boosting at 30 psig (stock boost range) that has boots blowing off as long as they have a quality oil resistant boot (the new OEM or riffraff boots are good choices), maintain minimal oil in the intake, attach the boots when everything is clean and oil-free, using clamps tightened to 9 ft-lbs. If your boots have been exposed to oil for a long time and you haven't changed them out, then you should. Fords early boots were susceptible to degrading with oil exposure - the new boots are supposed to be more oil resistant, but the ccv re-route is the best way to go - just google it, you will find the posts. Yes, that is all old news, but who knows how much you are aware of. Tex is well aware of the issues that many have had with boots blowing off - he is just saying that it is not a mystery. Apparently he is a good case study on running extremely high boost successfully. I wouldn't recommend it for very many folks - you have to have a good shop to get the work done properly to manage that, and even then there are risks. |
Originally Posted by tex25025
(Post 12052590)
Black Onyx gaskets though are pot luck though. You might have good ones, you might not. Also some of the supposedly notorious problems aren't really so, but I digress on that one.
Please share any information on these "notorious problems" - this thread or a new one, either will work! IMO BulletProofDIesel does more detailed studies on aftermarket parts than 99% of the industry and when they documented dimensional differences between BO and OEM, that was sufficient. No one else that I am aware of is doing that type of research. |
Originally Posted by Fulthrotl
(Post 12053024)
yes sir, you are entitled to every single one of those
horsepowers. may you, and they, live long and prosper.
Originally Posted by Fulthrotl
(Post 12053024)
the phalanx tuner i do find interesting... is the matt that
writes tunes for them the same matt that everyone sings the praises of on here, or is that a coincidence?
Originally Posted by bismic
(Post 12053627)
Yes, that is all old news, but who knows how much you are aware of.
Originally Posted by bismic
(Post 12053627)
Apparently he is a good case study on running extremely high boost successfully. I wouldn't recommend it for very many folks - you have to have a good shop to get the work done properly to manage that, and even then there are risks.
Originally Posted by bismic
(Post 12053653)
With stock OEM gaskets holding up beyond 750 hp, why would you want to risk pot-luck? High costs decisions justify low risk answers (especially when the low risk answer is not much more money!).
As far up that I was aware was a 600HP going on stock gaskets. I'm surprised that they were some that went higher. At 750Hp I would even probably have been thinking about something else outside of stock, but you are right. If it has been tested for a good amount of time at 750HP, then really I don't see a whole helluva lot of FTE people needing to go with a/m gaskets on these trucks.
Originally Posted by bismic
(Post 12053653)
IMO BulletProofDIesel does more detailed studies on aftermarket parts than 99% of the industry and when they documented dimensional differences between BO and OEM, that was sufficient. No one else that I am aware of is doing that type of research.
I'm just concerned about some of the other parts that they sell under the moniker of "bulletproofing the 6.0". Some of which most people have done here. The biggest pool of evidence that most people cite is tainted. I think (and it's me just thinking here) is that people have certain notions towards some of these parts and that is what the are going off of. Either previous experience or notions about other people that they know and their previous experience and thoughts about parts that fall under the same category. If enough people believe it, you will find someone that will supply products for that market. Rather or not it is really needed. |
I have been told that some guys soak their turbo boots in simple green overnight to help with adhesion to the pipes. I don't know if that is true or not, just passing it on??????????
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Originally Posted by tex25025
(Post 12053757)
I'm just concerned about some of the other parts that they sell under the moniker of "bulletproofing the 6.0". Some of which most people have done here. The biggest pool of evidence that most people cite is tainted. I think (and it's me just thinking here) is that people have certain notions towards some of these parts and that is what the are going off of. Either previous experience or notions about other people that they know and their previous experience and thoughts about parts that fall under the same category. If enough people believe it, you will find someone that will supply products for that market. Rather or not it is really needed.
The oil cooler and late model year water pumps are good examples of that. I know I don't need the external oil cooler, but if I were made of cash, I would have one. The coolant issue is another example. Internet hype has made a complete "villain" of the Gold coolant, but it is fine when proper;y maintained and not exposed to abuse (and abuse can come from prolonged exposure to failed parts). I know you do not believe a coolant filter is a requirement, yet the solids many of us (I did, BBC did, etc) pulled out of the coolant system show its benefit. That being said, not all people saw solids in their coolant filters. Like many things, it is all an excersize in probabilities and acceptable risk. Same thing w/ BO gaskets ... some people seem to be doing OK with them, but their failure rate is multiple times that of OEM gaskets (after quality head machining and installed ARP studs). Good discussion Evan!! |
"what is you overall opinion of the 04 6 liters? Should it stay or should it go?" I vote you sell it & get another truck that is easier on you. You are aready questioning the 6.0, make some money & move on...
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Originally Posted by bismic
(Post 12055689)
The oil cooler and late model year water pumps are good examples of that. I know I don't need the external oil cooler, but if I were made of cash, I would have one.
The coolant issue is another example. Internet hype has made a complete "villain" of the Gold coolant, but it is fine when proper;y maintained and not exposed to abuse (and abuse can come from prolonged exposure to failed parts). I know you do not believe a coolant filter is a requirement, yet the solids many of us (I did, BBC did, etc) pulled out of the coolant system show its benefit. That being said, not all people saw solids in their coolant filters. Like many things, it is all an excersize in probabilities and acceptable risk. Same thing w/ BO gaskets ... some people seem to be doing OK with them, but their failure rate is multiple times that of OEM gaskets (after quality head machining and installed ARP studs). Good discussion Evan!! but i looked long and hard at going with OEM or external oil cooler, and a lot hinged on doing the work myself, or having it done. the delta between OEM and BPD is something like $1,400. a mechanic is $1k a day, so if i did the OEM, and at some point in the future had to do it again, it comes out to the same cost as the external filter, redoing it once. however, if it's what you do for a living, you look at it differently. i do electrical contracting.... someone can approach a service upgrade on their house, and it's $2,200~$2,900. huge sticker shock. i look at it, and it's 6 hours, and $350 out of pocket for stuff. as for the motorcraft gold, my engine was completely disassembled. heads were rebuilt, radiator was flushed, everything pretty clean. filled back up with motorcraft premium gold, and tap water. engine rebuilder said he had never seen the benefit of distilled water, so he didn't drink that koolaid. i didn't care, as i was putting a coolant filter on to help keep the gunk out, and was planning a migration to waterless coolant anyway. so the engine has 6k on it since rebuild... and if you dip a long screwdriver into the puke jar, there is 2" of suspended milky sludge in the bottom of the puke jar. it leaves a gunky film on the screwdriver / dip stick. so, it either came from the water, or it came from the coolant. so my plan is to stick on the filter, run it 5k miles, change the filter, run it another 5k miles, and change the coolant to waterless. now, if i was looking at that cloggy gunk, and i had an OEM filter, i'd be a bit annoyed. there is nothing besides the radiator that it can plug now.... |
It could easily be from the tap water. Coolant chemistry is based on a blend of things (typically sodium, potassium, boron, silicon, phosphorous, etc) - with one of many purposes being to keep minerals (calcium, magnesium, etc) in solution under high heat conditions. Depending on the minerals in the tap water, it can affect the coolant chemistry. Do you know how much silica can be in drinking water (especially if it is well water)? How about how much mineral content does it take to reduce the phosphate or nitrite corrosion protection? If a person doesn't have a background in water treatment chemistry, then IMO they are not qualified to decide whether or not they "drink the Koolaide"!
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I wouldn't have used tap water. As Mark as said, there is no promises on what you'll get as far as chemistry goes other then minimal standards for our drinking needs.
I know I never used tap water when it came to chemistry experiments, so if chemistry is a must (as I do believe it is in coolant needs) then I would go with something that has more control over what is in it. Is it well, is it city, has he changed his filters lately? Around here (and I would imagine in places like the Hill Country) you have a lot of limestone, that equals a lot of calcium deposits (high instance of kidney stones around here where people have well water as their tap). Things like that you have to be aware of. |
Originally Posted by tex25025
(Post 12057572)
Is it well, is it city, has he changed his filters lately? Around here (and I would imagine in places like the Hill Country) you have a lot of limestone, that equals a lot of calcium deposits (high instance of kidney stones around here where people have well water as their tap). Things like that you have to be aware of.
water here is from the colorado river, and it has enough calcium to throw down a solid white crust on swimming pool tile. the only water i've found harder than this is in phoenix. i've done a lot of work in heavy commercial and industrial situations, and water treatment here is major concern with boilers, food processing equipment, cooling towers, etc. what i should have done was delivered the waterless coolant to him, and had that poured into the engine when it was all nice and dry. but i didn't, and there we are... i'm not gonna get all twizzled about it, cause the only thing that could be plugged by it is the radiator.... and while it was being rebuilt, i was doing research to see what the best practices would be for oil, coolant, etc. the one downside i see with evans coolant is availability. it's difficult to get ahold of... i may end up with rotella ultar ELC and distilled water after all is said and done. thanks for your feedback.. i appreciate it. |
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