6.0 Stalls when turning left, and cuts out over bumps
 

Our 2005 Ford Powerstroke E-360 6.0 family van recently started cutting out over bumps going down the freeway. It returns to idle for a second, and then runs again as normal. This only happens when there's a bump or series of bumps in the road. Numerous codes are on, including both the camshaft and crankshaft sensors, EGR, etc. It's all stock except for a tune. Turning left, it totally quits sometimes, especially if you turn left and hit a slight bump. Runs fine turning right. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Check your wiring harness.

Thanks for your response. Any parts of the wiring harness in particular? We removed and Dialectic greased all the connections we could get to this morning, still the same problem...

- just read posts on here 6-23-12 about shorting out of wiring in the steering column. Sorry i can't refer you directly to the thread or posts, but it was causing the truck to quit entirely, suddenly. I think the story was that a tech at a dealership found it or knew about it already when the poster had truck towed to dealer.
- I have noticed, after removing the air bag from steering wheel and modifying the wheel, that the key can be left in without the beeper going off, and the door won't stay locked-as if the key is in ignition when it is not, after working on the wheel. A short when turning the wheel sounds like a steering column wiring short, no?

Moved to the 6.0L Powerstroke Diesel forum.

Did you find the problem?

6.0L stalls on turning left, on bumps, etc.
 

AGE, not being sure who your Q. is directed at, I will answer. The work i was doing on my steering wheel was not electrical related at all. I loosened and peeled back the leather covering and another cover I had made and then sewed on. Then I took my die grinder to the flared ends of the overly large wheel spokes that are very uncomfortable to my hands, and which I could just barely reach my fingers around where the spokes meet the wheel rim. I cut away about 3/8" of material, both rubber and aluminum, from the corner of the spoke and rim. It is more comfortable, but still not like a good comfortable 3 or 4 spoke steering wheel should be, such as Ford has put on most of their vehicles.

Bump, same issue 2003 F350 SRW .. 6.0 Diesel
 

Same issue, only left turns while moving. Not at idle. Also does when traversing ruts. Changed fuel filters and bled water from fuel separator... stumped, how did @Asphalt_Cowboy fix it?

O'Rilleys Pulled Codes
 

P2617 - Crankshaft Position Signal Output Circuit / Open
P2614 - Camshaft Position Signal Output Circuit / Open
P0401 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected

Ideas?
Thanks
T

Check FICM and IPR wiring.

Still got issues dies or stutters turning left
 

2003 f350 6.0L Diesel with 156K miles
original issue, dies while turning left at 3mph or 75 mph

so, I replaced the IPR and the IPC
ran fine for a few days

then hard shut down, no start no crank
turns out the ficm plug melted...
and burnt a few pins in the ficm

I replaced plug and ficm
truck worked great for a week

now, out of the blue - same crap
dies or stutters with left turns
not right
not as bad as before but fear it will get worse with time
so, now thinking a short on the wiring harness

where do I start or what do I start to look??
thanks
t
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...4e868328e.jpeg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...260d54e97.jpeg

Have you checked for codes (DTC's) with a very thorough code reader?

As you found out, the FICM and wiring (harness) is a common area to cause your issues. Since you found the evidence of electrical shorting, it may be that simply replacing the connector and the FICM didn't address the root cause. Look for chafing in the FICM harness - check back to the PCM and check the harness to the injectors.

Also, look for harness chaffing in the IPR and ICP wiring. You can even try running for a while w/ the ICP sensor itself disconnected.

Doing the wiggle test might help also (while idling, wiggle as much of the Engine Harness, FICM harness, Injector harness, etc as you can trying to get the engine to die).

Also, is the plastic wiring shield that runs across the width of the engine compartment drooping down and touching the top of the turbo?

Just as an fyi -
One of the first things to check when an engine dies when turning is the fuel level. A fuel tank level at or below 1/4 tank might cause a stall when turning if the pick-up tube is broken.

This is by no means a complete list - many wiring issues are a pain.
I'll change the text to red for some that would seem to happen when turning.

Wire Chafing Locations (Closely inspect wiring when you have injector DTCs):
https://www.ford-trucks.com/ford-man...re_chafing.pdf​

• ICP sensor connector or wiring - usually the 03 and early 04 engines are more prone to these issues.
• Upper left valve cover or valve cover stud near the FICM (injector harness).​
• IPR harness - near rear intake stud; Also heat from the turbo can ruin the insulation around the wires.​
• Exhaust Pressure (EBP) sensor bracket at thermostat housing​.
• Accelerator Pedal pivot point (under dash) at steering column - adjustable pedals only.
• 12A581 harness (engine harness that goes across the back of the engine compartment, over the turbo, in the plastic harness tray). The plastic tray gets brittle and fails. When it does, the wires get too close to the turbo heat and they can be damaged.​
• Near the steering column, where it goes through the firewall.​
• Front left of intake manifold near breather tube and air inlet duct​. Left front valve cover hold down bolts/studs.
• CKP wiring near A/C compressor and belt tensioner​. Also, sometimes the CKP sensor itself leaks oil and damages the connector and an intermittent short can result.
• Under the Air Filter canister - harness chafe's on a stud when pinched by the air filter case. Corner of the valve cover. Or the intake manifold bolts where the harness routes under the air intake hose.​
• CMP wire can get pinched in between the intake manifold and the radiator hose port on the front cover.​ Also, sometimes the CMP sensor itself leaks oil and damages the connector and an intermittent short can result.
• Not an electrical problem exactly, but sometimes rust on the block where the CMP sensor is mounted can push the sensor out just far enough to cause intermittent engine stalls (dying).
• Idler pulley under the thermostat (wiring routed around the power steering pump). The CMP sensor wiring is in this "bundle", and a chafe here can throw a P0341 CMP electrical code. The wiring to the CMP is routed around the power steering pump.​
• Right valve cover at glow plug control module (GPCM) and around the glow plug relay bracket.​
• PCM harness at battery box, or at/near the PCM.​
• PCM harness near the relay box brackets at the left rear corner of the engine compartment.​
• Check injector harnesses and FICM harness for backed out or bent pins or bad wiring.
• Wiring to #5 injector. (3rd back passenger side) the heater hose clamp rubs through on the early built units.​
• On Econolines, also inspect at the top edge of the computer, along the oil dipstick tube bracket and auxiliary A/C lines.​
• Check near C145 which is near the fire wall on the drivers side, not far from the BJB (Battery Junction Box). Also 14A067 (BJB) wiring, circuit 1044 (WH/YE wire), under the BJB (left rear corner of engine compartment).​
• Fan clutch wiring has been damaged by the fan, or maybe the fan clutch itself has an internal short.

New injector harness, new FICM, and check the wiring and pins at each injector visually and with a meter for shorts before installing a new FICM.

Your FICM "C" connector burnt across the ground and power-in pins, which would indicate a serious short. The injector harness s relatively cheap compared to burning up a new FICM, so for me it's a worthwhile investment. The turning in one direction has a history with me. Mine died every time I made a hard right no matter the speed. It cured when I replaced the main harness, but that never caused the intense burning of any of my FICM connections.

Based on the fact that you changed out the plug and are back to the same issues, it would seem likely that the issue is in the harness feeding the injectors. There are four wires that feed each injector. It doesn't take much to cause an issue.