just had the new AD CAC installed in my 2012 Ecoboost with the upper and lower shield , lost 2-3 mpg and truck has lost power. My oil smells like fuel and there has been up to an extra qt when I drain it. I am installing a RX Monster2 catch can and fresh air side cap to hopefully take care of the fuel smell and raised level of fluids in the crank case, Looking to drill a 1mm hole in the drivers side of the CAC to help eliminate the water issue, Change my plugs to NGK LASER IRIDUM and gap to .030 see if my mpg and performance comes back a new tune may be needed since I think Ford has been taking it away trying to fix the issues

Don't forget to reset your ECU so it relearns.

Water in intercooler Repair
 

I have a 2011 F-150 ecoboost which started to shudder and not allow acceleration above 70mph and 3000 rpm. This then threw codes for injector p0302. After a couple visits they finally found water in the intercooler and other areas. The dealership "fixed" the issue and added this funky guard (see pic) on my intercooler which i know cuts down on performance. Just not sure how this can be an allowable fix. Anyone else see this fix before
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...8c46033ba8.jpg
?

Plate put on intercooler

I have the black plastic air dam on my air charge cooler as well. I haven't had anymore issues; however, it makes me wonder if Ford engineering is dumbing down our trucks by making the cooler less efficient and eliminating the condensation vs. spending the money on a redesign and giving us a better air charge cooler. I've lost some mpg across the board.

The newest CAC does not have you put in the restrictor plate like that. The idea for that plate is to reduce the amount of air flowing through to help keep the condensation from pooling and causing the issue.

It was a band-aid fix and they have since changed the intercooler for a different design.

I just noticed my truck is like yours, except 2 years removed. Mine's a 2014. Of course, there is one other big difference your's is a screw while mine is a scab. I would have loved to have been able to get a screw instead.

Coming up on four years and 50K miles and I've yet to have a stumbling issue no matter the weather, the load or the location. I'm still somewhat convinced that driving style has something or at least a little to do with mitigating these issues.

So what's the consensus on this? As I understand it, there are two issues with the intake/CAC.

Issue #1 is that in humid climates, the CAC can actually cause moisture from the air to collect in it and then get ingested into the engine when a sudden surge of boost is pushed through it.

Issue #2 is that the PCV system is flawed causing a bunch of nasty junk to collect in there.

Is this an accurate statement? I'm wondering how serious I should be addressing this on my 2014. I had that plastic restrictor plate on my CAC previously, but I thought it was silly where I live, so I removed it (pops right off with those plastic rivet things). If I drive down along the Gulf Coast, should I drill the CAC or reinstall the plate?

I'd drill it if your worried about condensation building up in the CAC. It seems to have worked for everyone in this thread. Ecoboost condensate drain hole, post your results here - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans



I've never had the condensation issue in 3.5 years with my 2011 or in 6 months with my 2014.
I removed the CAC on my 2011 with 21k miles on it to clean it out and drill it. But it was bone dry so I didn't drill it I just reinstalled it.

I just read through the first page of your link and what amazes me is why Ford didn't use this as a fix. Afterall, Ford owned Volvo for years so they must endorse this as a safe and reliable method to reduce condensation issues.



My truck has been from Va to Maine to SC and to Tenn. I've driven in all weather, all terrains and times of day and night loaded and pulling and never an issue.

I'm simply not understanding why some exhibit the symptoms yet most do not.

Yeah, I've only had my 2014 for about 2 1/2 months now, and never an issue. I think I'll go ahead and pull it to see what's in it first before any drilling happens. I drive mine on the harder side though, so maybe there is something to driving style...

Well, S#!T!!! I jinxed myself yesterday. I was driving through town to avoid a wreck on the interstate, and when I finally got to my on ramp and stepped on it... Downshift, CHUG-CHUG, LIMP MODE with the wrench on the display. I had my SCT X4 connected, but it was reporting no codes. What gives??? The truck was in limp mode, but the SCT wasn't telling me jack!! It was that way until I stopped and cycled the key.

Sorry to hear that you had the shudder IZZY351, welcome to the club.

I drained the most condensate this last time. It was really a wet/humid span of time.

FIX For Moisture Issues
 

I have a 2013 F-150 XLT with over 60k and I am also a shade tree mechanic. I have come to determine the main cause of the condensation is Ford using a naturally aspirated PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system on a boosted engine. The crankcase pressures on the 3.5 can get pretty high for a stock engine. When you are in high boost the vacuum in the intake manifold is completely lost, because it becomes pressurized, and the PCV evacuation on the dirty side (passenger) ceases. So the clean side of the PCV system (driver side) now becomes pressurized because the pressure has to go somewhere. This pushes PCV gasses (sulfuric acid, oil vapor, and MOISTURE) into the pre-turbo inlet on the driver side and eventually makes it way to the intercooler. Pooling there until it builds up enough to make it a problem next time you go WOT (wide open throttle). I have completely fixed this problem on my 2013 and I am averaging 18.5 to 19 and she is running fantastic. I installed the RX Performance catch can setup and rather than routing my clean side hose to the factory air box I installed breathers on the clean side separator (lookup the youtube video for RX Catch Can Ecoboost Install). The EPA may not be to happy with this but she runs awesome. The goal is to avoid any reverse flow in the PCV system and maintain constant vacuum pulling from the dirty side of the PCV system (passenger side). Also, oil vapors that are pulled into the intake tract using the stock PCV system lower your octane rating and lead to detonation. I am running regular unleaded in the truck and it has never had more power using my setup. I am not recommending running breathers and routing the hose to the factory airbox like the RX instructions say is a good way to go. I was just getting oil on my air filter so I decided to cap it off and run the breathers. This picture is how much "CRAP" I have caught in the catch can in the last 1500 miles draining it every 500 miles.:-jammin Also, I drilled a 1/8" hole in the bottom corner of my intercooler and this allows the moisture/oil/etc to "blow" out under boost. This CAC (Charge air cooler) system never has vacuum, it always has slight pressure, so its not a problem with dirt, etc. getting sucked in. I have been doing this for over 10,000 miles and it still runs awesome. Oh...and I run a K&N air filter lol. }>