Cost of having the oil pan gasket redone?
I have heard the stories of pulling the motor to do this, but I believe it needs it. I stepped on it coming home tonight and noticed that almost immediately after pulling into the driveway I had a few fresh drips so I looked underneath and saw fresh build up around the pan lining. :'(
So who has had a shop do this and what have you guys paid. Thanks in advance. |
First off, make sure you don't have a top-side oil leak collecting in the engine valley, running down the backside of the engine making you think your pan is leaking.
Also check the dipstick tube flange. Stewart |
About a week ago i took apart the top of the motor and cleaned out the valley, and I used a flashlight tonight and it was still relatively dry. I will have to check the flange(thanks for the tip) but I really believe its the pan. The girls got 250K on her but runs like a dream.
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I was just hoping it might be something other than that labor intensive, time consuming pan leak.
Stewart |
Originally Posted by Stewart_H
(Post 11861511)
I was just hoping it might be something other than that labor intensive, time consuming pan leak.
Stewart |
Your engine has to come out and be turned upside down to allow the sealant to cure. There is no gasket.
If you can pull the engine and have an engine stand, you're good to go. Stewart |
Don't fix anything that ain't broke! Get under there at the quarter car wash and clean that area and above it, then look again after a hundred miles. If you really want to find it put some dye in your oil. If it is the pan (random pan leaks are rare), tighten the bolts on that side first (don't break any), and look again after another 100 miles. Lower (appearing) leaks usually originate higher up.
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Originally Posted by EXv10
(Post 11861544)
Don't fix anything that ain't broke! Get under there at the quarter car wash and clean that area and above it, then look again after a hundred miles. If you really want to find it put some dye in your oil. If it is the pan (random pan leaks are rare), tighten the bolts on that side first (don't break any), and look again after another 100 miles. Lower (appearing) leaks usually originate higher up.
Good idea, Brent! Stewart |
Originally Posted by EXv10
(Post 11861544)
Don't fix anything that ain't broke! Get under there at the quarter car wash and clean that area and above it, then look again after a hundred miles. If you really want to find it put some dye in your oil. If it is the pan (random pan leaks are rare), tighten the bolts on that side first (don't break any), and look again after another 100 miles. Lower (appearing) leaks usually originate higher up.
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Ive used tracer before in other vehicles... not sure how much would be sufficient for a 6.0.
Amazon.com: Tracer Products TP34000601 UV Fluorescent Leak Detection Dye - Set of 6: Automotive |
I also would try to tighten the bolts over time they come loose. I had an oil leak I thought was a rear main seal, it turned out to be the rear most oil pan bolts were about 1, 1/2 turns loose! I had the shop that did my injectors tell me that the oil pan was replaced recently hence no rust on it! I would first see if it is the pan bolts. Also the mechanic said usually he would charge about 600 - 800.00 for an oil pan job simply because the only way to do it is pull the engine. There is a video of a guy replacing his on youtube on a 99 F350 Oil Pan Replacement Ford F350 Powerstroke 7.3L Diesel - YouTube
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Originally Posted by 2000EX7.3L
(Post 11861605)
Good call! Any particular dye? And any concerns about blasting away with degreaser and high power wash on the 7.3? I really appreciate all the help.
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Ill of my bolts were about a 1/4 turn loose I need to stop mine from rusting soon.
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There was a problem with the V10 oil pans. Ford now makes a replacement pan and gasket. It' $169.00 at the dealer. They say 8hrs labor to install.
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