Autolite 2100
 

I have one on a 390 in a 67 model. How hard is it to rebuild one fro someone that knows nothing about carbs? Mine has gas coming out of 2 of the 4 hollow post that stick up on top of it. I am assuming it is some type of float problem. Any help would be great. Dont really want to buy a new carb. but might have to.

Thaks,'
Jeff

google "rebuilding Autolite 2100 carb"
the first three pages are pictoral instructions on how to do it.... it's stupidly simple.
$14 is about average for a rebuild kit.

If you don't want to rebuild it, it just sounds like you need a new float or needle valve.

The rebuild kit has instructions as well. Be prepared to spend two days for the process. One day will be tear down and soaking carb body in cleaner. The next will be blowing out all passages and reassembly. Make certain that the float actually floats. A float does not come with the kits. Good luck.

Kurt

huh. float came with the kits I was getting.

Also the manual will show (and you will also receive) a bunch of parts that you do not use. So be advised.

A float didn't come with mine; although, the parts man asked me if I needed a float. Maybe I'm cheap. You are right about the extra parts. It's a good idea to have the carb tag number handy - if one exists.

Like the Man said. Each kit comes with instructions. So do Automatic transmission kits. If ya have ever built an AMT Model Car from a kit ya can do this. Just make sure ya got a super clean place to work and super clean everything. Also know that the carb cleaner ya soak the parts in will eat everything that aint metal.
And in your case get the kit with the float with it.

It ain't what it used to be. Used to make the metal look new. Love the tree huggers.

Follow the directions on the carb cleaner. Overnight is not necessary, and you may cause problems that way. As an example, more than an hour in fresh carb dip will damage the MC 2100-2, and 2100-3 carbs. They have some teflon seals that are ruined this way. Brass and plastic parts don't go in the dip.

Try to blow out the passages from the inside of the barrels out, and from the bottom of the carb, up. Ordinary carburetor spray is handy for checking to see if the passages are open (same pattern of blowing, where possible). Don't drive the dirt down into places that get smaller and smaller!

Follow the directions with the carb rebuild kit exactly. Don't try to dissassemble things more than required. Don't remove the shafts. Watch U*Tube videos, they help. Don't use silicone seal (RTV)... It isn't hard to do correctly, but guys sometimes do things not required, and cause extra issues.

If you really have trouble, PM us for anything that isn't clear. Setting the choke linkage and figuring out which instruction steps apply to your particular carb may be a little confusing the first go-around.

Did I say Follow the directions with the carb rebuild kit exactly?