Bought a 6.0L with 212k miles...need some advice
 

First of, let me thank you all for all the info provided on this forum.

I just happened to find this site the other day AFTER buying an F250 6.0L. My FIRST diesel truck..... Now, I am somehow concerned especially after reading all the stories about these engines.

I sure do not know much about diesel engines in general. The truck is super clean with no signs of abuse. It has 212k+ miles on it and it runs smooth.

What do you all suggest I should do/check to make sure this truck is gonna last me a while. So far this truck came with a car fax report showing two owners one private who drove it 190k +- an the other registered to a commercial account who put the remainder milage. Thats it, I sure do not know anything else about it other than that it looks clean with no obvious leaks etc. Im fixing to do some basic maintenance on it (oil change) Can I change the fluids and filters my self or should I have a professional diesel mechanic do it.

Again, truck is awesome!. I haven't pulled anything heavy with it yet. However it will be used to pull heavy loads on a near future, I just want to make sure this is the right truck for the job.

A friend tells me that if it has over 200k it prob. went trough all the problems these engines are known for...but, how would I know.

Thank you in advance for all the advice I can get on this 6.0 I really like the truck and would really hate if I have to get rid of it.



2007 Ford F250
Diesel 6.0l Turbo Power Stroke
XLT Ext. cab.
212,000 + miles

Change all filters and fluids. Add a Coolant filter for good measure. Do the Blue spring upgrade. AND ENJOY IT!

Use ONLY OEM filters. Do not use anything else. Use a good synthetic oil, like Mobil 1 5w40 diesel, or Rotella.

Install a coolant filter, and do a good coolant flush. Do the blue spring fuel pressure regulator update like said above.

Those are basic maintenance items that will help the 6.0 live. Of course not knowing what's been done makes something a headache. But if the STC fitting, and the dummy plugs and stand pipes have not been updated, they should be.

I would also recommend some aftermarket gauges or digital monitor like a ScanGauge.

definetly get a scangauge, theres one right for 6.0s and it will tell you your ECT and EOT and the delta between the two should never exceed 15* i believe. do what what said above, i myself, would get an EGR delete and straightpipe the truck, help her breathe a little, and that 6.0 bark at WOT is awesome! 6.4 banjos are good to do too.

I have a 2003 6.0 250 that now needs an oil change I was wondering about the castrol taction 15/40 is any good and what are these stc plugs and dummy plugs and where are they and I'm assuming the stand pipe is the oil return for turbo.

Btw I'm asking about castrol cuz that's only brand we use in our gas engines and had awesome luck and way clean parts like block internals so if it will work good I'd like to stay with that brand

Don't feel bad man. the guy who owned it and drove it for 190,000 mile obviously loved and took care of that truck to keep it so long. I would check with ford and see if they can provide a service report for that vin so you know if he has had problems. If he took it to a ford dealer that is.

Make sure the oil is cj4 rated and all oem filters. Use only the recommended fluids. No green antifreeze in these engines.

I'm sure Castrol makes some fine oil. Just check the bottle for API CJ-4 rating. That's the spec for your diesel truck. STC fitting is in the turbo oil line on late '04 and newer trucks. Stand pipes feed oil up from the high pressure pump to the oil rails on each head. And dummy plugs are in the unused hole in the oil rails. The rails fit either side and the stand pipes aren't in the center so there is an unused hole that must be plugged.
There are some good pictures in the tech folder. Check out the 6.0 bible about halfway down the page.

Thanks for the info

Really appreciate all the advice given. Please keep them coming.

I was thinking the same 'one owner that many miles' he probably serviced the truck and upgraded a few things. A phone call to the Ford delaer is in order.

Also, just to know, how would i know by just looking at the engine if it has been 'bullet proofed" is there any way one can tell?

Today was the first time I drove it loaded and for the first time. I saw some fluid dripping on the right side below the egine...Im pretty sure it is the AC condensation water?..i really hope so...it doesnt smell like coolant/fuel or oil...it is just water from the AC i beleive...

So far so good . It drives great and that AC is artic cold.
btw, how much is it going to cost to do all the recomended above...any ideas?

Question:

on a side note, I need a heavy duty trailer hitch and receiver advice...the trailer I'll be pulling is about 5,500# and loaded it can reach maybe 9k# or 10k#.

Went to advanced auto parts and all I found was a tri ball..with the biggest (2 5/16) rated at 10,000 max...I know there is got to be better than that...some advice to where I can a quality one will be appreciated.

Thank you all again for the support and advice given..i gotta confeess, I really like the sound this egine makes....it is def. new noise my ears enjoy:-jammin.

I spent 60 on oil and a new filter last week from autozone. For the two fuel filters you're looking at 40 and a new air filter is around 50 bucks. These are close to prices I have seen online as well. I haven't personally changed my trans transfer or differentials as of yet so I can't speak on those. I would be curious to know if anyone knows off the top of their head. Also I seen you ask if you can change the oil yourself. I am a mechanic and I have changed the oil on lots of vehicles and I think the 6.0 is one of the easiest. I love the fact that the oil filter is on top. Makes for replacing it very simple. Also if you look on amazon there is a special socket for the fuel filters and oil filter for like 10 dollars. Instead of using a crescent wrench or something that will damage the plastic.

Trans filter on the cooler line near the radiator-sometimes called the toilet paper roll- is p/n 3C3Z-7B155-BA, O-ring for it is 3C3Z-7J126-AA, and 8 quarts of Mercon SP (LV is ok too, and a little cheaper) cost me $107 at my local dealer. No need to change the screen in the trans pan unless you've had a problem and need to check for big trash. A ScanGauge goes for $150 at AutoZone, maybe a little less on line.

And a note on the oil filter cap. It's tempting but don't try to use that 1/2 drive recess on the top of the cap, it breaks REAL easy.

STC fitting is on the HPOP, not the turbo...