1963 F100 with straight 6- Engine Swap Options
 

I want to put a different motor in my '63. Right now it has a straight six 300 with a 3 on the tree tranny. I want to have more power than I know what to do with. I was going for a big block originally but then i decided i want to be able to run in the high rpm's for racing while still having plenty of tire roasting low end power.

What engine would you guys suggest? I'm not too worried about fuel economy as this will be a weekend hot rod. I'm willing to swap my transmission too but if it'll hold up to a more powerful engine then i'd rather keep it.

Any engine/trans options, suggestions, tips, etc. are welcomed.

Here's the VIN: F10JK365283
Can anyone decode this?

A 3-on-the-tree for anything but granny driving is a bit much, yes? :-X14

You should be able to swap a 351W in there without too much work, I'd think.

Wait for the rest of the guys to get here, the 351W swap is not a bit deal but needs some special stuff to make it work.

Yeah i guess you're right, can i somehow use the same transmission while putting a shifter on the floor?

Will the Windsor have much power? Whatever I buy i'm planning on a mild cam and some performance heads, that'll be about all i'm doing to the engine.

351 cubes and a decent stroke makes for a decent motor. Money-wise it might be too much, but you can stoke/bore a 351 pretty close to 400 cubes now I think.

Your '63 would not have a 300 stock. Not that it matters if you are going to swap in a V8.

As for the most "practical" swap, the 351w is at the top. 393 & 408 strokers can be made out of the stock block, and a 427 can be made with a Dart block. Just add money.

If you are looking for a stock motor out of a jy, you are not going to get tire roasting power or high revs.

Check out the SBF forums, and look for posts from Conanski and you'll find a truckload of 351w tips and info.

As for the transmission, a slightly beefed C6 is what you want for hot rod duty.

I just assumed that it had the 300, I need to decode my VIN so I can have more information.

I don't expect it from a stock motor. With a 351w what are the easiest/cheapest upgrades to produce the most power? I'll check those out.

Aren't c6's automatics?

Yes, the C6 is an automatic.

351w mods depend on what you start with. Later models are roller motors. Also, it depends on if you go stroker.

I'm not putting an automatic in it. How can I tell what transmission I have? Making it a stroker is a bit out of my budget.

Your three speed, is it synchro in first gear? If so, it is a Ford "303" trans. Top loading, side shifted, iron case.

If no synchro, it is a BW unit, T85 or similar. Side loaded, side shifted, iron case. Available with an OD unit on the tail as OEM.

You'll break less stuff with a bigger motor with an automatic. Wait till you hit those rear leaf springs with some serious torque and see what happens.

Serving suggestion, posts 1, 6 & 10 here:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...fused-gif.html

I have no idea what synchro is. I've never driven this truck, I just pulled it out of my grandma's back yard last weekend. I know nothing about it. What can I look for on the casing to make it easier to distinguish? And will either the 303 or Borges hold up to a mildly built 351?

Scroll down for a simplistic explanation of the synchro. It makes the trans able to go into gear without grinding. With a synchro first, you can shift down while rolling. Without, you pretty much have to stop to get it into first.

HowStuffWorks "A Real Transmission"

The Ford "303" is a top loaded case. The BW is side loaded.

The Ford:

Image Detail for - http://www.1964ford.com/images/pictures/3speed.png

BW with the OD:

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2080...64371389dGJuXP

Note the Ford has a cover on top--"top loading". The BW loads through the cover on the side where the shift levers come out.

Either trans will take a 351w unless you be beat on it.

If you just pulled it out of a back yard, how long has it been since it ran?

Tires, wheels (rust isn't your friend on those), brakes, and steering FIRST.

The last registration expired in 93. My dad quit driving it because it was using oil like crazy. First thing i'm doing is body work. There are a couple bad rust holes that will be patched on the cab, everything else is pretty much rust free. I have to track down a grill and passenger side fender, as they're trash. I will take care of upgrading the brakes and replacing the tie rod/ends before I actually drive this truck.

Wheels are ugly but functional, and will be replaced a little further down the road. Tires will be replaced before the truck is driven, but they still hold air and i'm using them to move the truck around the yard.

It's the 303. Good or bad?

303 is good. All synchro, makes it much easier to drive. Plenty strong as well. And they are common.

You may need bearings and synchros, but like you say, you have other things to do first. If you can run it at all, you'll know if it's howler/grinder before you do your engine swap.