motor rebuild
 

ok so it it goes . my 87 f150 has got over three hundred tho on its tired 302 . alto runs good just lacking some power i know it once had . { been in the family since new and been driving it since i was 13 }

its a 87 ford f 150 xlt lariat extended cab 8 foot bed 4x4 with an automatic trans with overdrive and 32" tires . now i know everyone is going to say motor swap and i respect that but i am keeping this truck numbers matching .

i don't off road the truck and dont want to line up and race someone . mostly a dd and now and then a trip to the lumber yard or helping move family and tow a 17 foot boat .

i am not bore or stoking the motor but what i am looking for is advice on what is a good rebuild kit . maybe a tad bit bigger cam . headers .and intake . just a few mild upgrades why i got it out and apart . i am doing a leveling kit on it but am not ever going to run any tires bigger then what on there .

so plz give my your advice as i am going to be starting this project in a few weeks when i get my Dakota ready to be back on the road .

Wow..my '89 only has 125K and is already "weak" in the knees. I too want to do a mild upgrade when I find another motor to do.

Might want to look at upgrading it to roller lifters. Simple and likely help out a bit. Stock lifters are pretty bullet proof.

I wouldn't worry too much about keeping it numbers matching. I don't think they are marked like they used to be. You could keep it running as you build up a nice motor. Then spend a weekend and swap it over.

Have you checked compression or oil pressure? Have you checked for slop in the timing chain? If its not really smoking, and has good compression, don't fix what ain't broke. Every car in my signature has the original motor, and runs great! Just saying never underestimate what a well maintained machine can do, I find it's usually a careless motorist that always knocks my highest of mileage vehicles down.

Well.. with 300k on it you're going to be boring it sorry to tell you.. that is if you don't want this to be a complete waste of $$. But that's no big deal and is a standard part of the machining work done to restore a block to factory spec along with truing the rods and installing new cam bearings. Because of this you can't buy new pistons, rings, and bearings until you know how much work the block needs, but that is also standard operating procedure for a motor rebuild. I'd suggest the Comp 31-255-5 an an upgrade cam, it will cooperate fully with the EFI system on your motor but will also generate quite a bit more HP and TQ, add some pacesetter longtube headers and custom exhaust and depending what transmission the truck has some gears in the axles to compensate for those big tires and you'll have a brand new truck.
P.S. The stock intake is plenty big for this motor so no need to spend a cent there.

I think what he meant was that he was going to keep the displacement the same, i.e. no stroker kit.

But I don't see the point of making this a "numbers matching" rebuild. You are not restoring a 68 'cuda, it's one of millions of F-150's made. There isn't anything special about the truck - at least, not to anyone else but you and your family.

If you're going to swap the motor, put a 351w in there. The mileage is about the same and you get a lot more power.

cool thanks for the info . this is all going to be starting due to a broke exhaust manifold on the passenger side of the truck . i went to replace it with a new one and snapped the head off of three of the studs . i have tried every thing from heating them up to welding a nut on them and trying to twist them out with no luck . now my only option is to pull the head and drill and re tap .

now when i had the manifold off i took a light and was looking down into the ports and they are pretty well carbon up with a hard white crust .
so now i thought since i got to pull the head why not just take a few more days and rebuild the whole motor so i can start fresh . i was planning on honing it once its apart to clean up the cyclender holes . after that i will recalibrate the hole and see where i stand between oe specs to where it is at .
main upgrade was just a mild cam and headers with true duel exhaust . i will look into that cam you suggested when i get off work . thanks for all the info

LOL I do the same thing. "Hey, this board is a little loose...." and the next thing I know I am building a new garage.

Once you get the block stripped down, you HAVE to take the block, heads, crank, rods, etc to a machine shop and let them do their work. They can also dip any parts that need to be cleaned into the acid bath. Your intake will come out looking brand new.

not sure if this will help at all

http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/...4-11115518.jpg
http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/...3-11113339.jpg
http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/...3-11113351.jpg

Trans code T is AOD I believe.. so you definitely should add gears at some point or just ignore the fact it has OD and select D all the time. Axle code 19 is 3.55 open. Interesting to see the stock wheel size if 6".. it must have looked rediculous with skinnies like that on it.. looks much better with those 8" turbine wheels IMO. Also note that you should recalibrate the speedo for those tires so you know how fast you're really going and milage calculations are more accurate, that is done by changing the drive gear on the trans end of the speedo cable but to know which one you need you first have to find out what one your truck has by removing it, they are color coded.

well i been doing some home work and i have decided to just buy a brand new motor from work . its only 1,200.00 for a brand new long block .
going to order new headers and a cam motor dress up chrome kit for it and be done .
by time i took the old one out sent to machine shop and ordered all the parts its cheaper to go this way .
i do have one more question tho as i have the choice between standard or roller motor . i believe i have just a standard motor . if i order a roller motor what problems will i counter or any at all

Any vintage 5.0 motor will bolt in and run on the existing EFI system in your truck, and the later truck motors('94+) got a much better roller cam than the flat tappet in your existing motor so you would be well ahead if you can get one of those. The only wiring change necessary would be to rearrange the plug wires for the HO firing order.

cool thanks for that info . i was doing a little research and was just wondering . if i do order a long block from a 94 to get the better roller will stuff like my disturber and upper intake swap over cuss this stuff i have to supply and was not looking to get new . the motors i am looking into come with all internals heads timing chain with gears ect . but some stuff i have to take off my old motor . also if i do get a roller motor is it worth replacing the cam or just leave the stock on in there it comes with . thanks for all the help i am going to be ordering this stuff here real soon but got to wait till July after my wife gives birth to are 2 child so i can be a car down for a week or two . i just want to order all the right stuff the first time around and have it ready

Any one know

Yes, everything will swap between long blocks. An yea, u should still change out the roller cam. Get the specs on the cam Conanski suggested, an match a roller cam to those specs

If you're ordering a long block, I would have to guess the cam would be in there, why not just check with them to see if they could install the cam of your choice for that 1200 and be done with it ?? Then just bolt on the intake and the rest ...