Adding this side step possible?
 

Does anyone know if this side step can be added as after-market or was this a factory option? If possible, how is it attached to the frame? Any sources for the step?

http://www.webtfg.com/step.jpg

Looks aftermarket, I just checked (runningboardwarehouse) and diamond plate boards run about $350.00 or so. Plenty of on-line retailers to chose from...........

I like the one in this photo because it seems to bolt either to or just above and cover up that lower metal lip that runs the length from wheel to wheel. Mine is chipped and dented up in spots and this would clean up that sight line nicely.

If some knows this particular brand, please share.

Its an Owens, but they dont make the full length driver side ones anymore. You can get the shorter ones still...

Thanks for identifying it. I checked around and found this:

Owens Products OC80102X - Owens Products Classic Series Diamond Tread Running Boards - Application - SummitRacing.com

It appears from this the longer version is still available. At least they call it the "full length". I assume that means wheel to wheel??

http://www.owensproducts.com/images/...C80102X_lg.jpg

It appears they do sell a full size unit. I was told they no longer made the one I was looking for when I called, though my application was a 95 e150 XL clubwagon.

The image is from their website for the part number summit provided. That unit has a 2 inch lip, they have 4 inch lip versions apparently.

Those running boards never mount to the frame, they simply screw into the lower lip, and around the fenders.



In 10 years or so with road salt and rust, one day you'll put your foot on it, and it's gonna drop down and fall off!

Nothing you couldn't fix with a brake, drill-press, some steel plate, and a few grade 5/8 bolts. Maybe some welding if you wanted to triangulate :P

I've seen far too many vans from the 80's when this type running boards were first available. Holes were drilled as John says without a single thing done to prevent or even slow down the inevitable formation of rust. Once the original factory paint, primer and electro-coating of the body was pierced and exposed the underlying metal would rust at an astonishing rate. You can see something similar with conversion vans around the body side aftermarket windows--same thing; cut, install and ship it out, no concern about rust.

I added a set of driveway fabricated running boards utilizing the basic concept of support brackets attached to the frame, never in contact with any bit of the body. While they look like a bad dream the copied concept is sound---next step is refining its appearance.

Any vehicle I'd want to keep and not constantly be chasing rust would never have the lower body drilled through when there is probably a better way to mount something like running boards. Even though our vans are very under represented in the aftermarket for such improvements there's simply a better way IMHO.

I can post photos of my set up if interested---it'll give a better idea of an improved method.

I, for one, would be interested in seeing what you're doing.

My main reason for thinking about runningboards was mainly to cover up the chewed up sections of that "lip", for lack of a better word, that runs the length of the van at the bottom edge.

However, you seem to suggest that drilling holes into the body does more harm than good. I wonder, though, with my 1999 modified handicap van already having it's fair share of rust that I'm chasing now does doing a bit of drilling really matter at this late stage?

If not runningboards, does anyone offer some kind of metal strip to afix to the bottom edge of a van?

It wouldn't be hard to get a local shop to cut some diamond plate, and attach that to the sheet metal of the lower lip. Drill some holes, apply corrosion inhibitor, and use through bolts.

I wont get into the concept of anodic index, but you may later encounter galvanic corrosion. Coatings on the diamond plate would prevent this if you go with aluminum plate, or proper treatment and careful selection of bolts can work for steel diamond plate.

Option 3 is to use adhesives. As silly as this sounds, if you are using thin aluminum and use strong 3m auto body adhesive/tape, this is very sound. Of course, this is no good for load bearing structures such as steps.

If I get your meaning Scooter that lip is called a pinchweld, at least generically. If that's your only reason for adding a running board I'd do exactly as 95e150CW suggests. Select a 3M tape here: 3M Automotive Trim & Accessories : 3M and find something suitable size and appearance-wise to cover it. Easy to do, relative low cost.

Since your van is already a bit rusty and its not a big issue and you simply want boards by all means get whatever you want. My advice was assuming the van was in good shape and you planned on keeping it a while longer.

I copied parts of Ford's OEM running board mounting style along with ideas I've seen from the aftermarket, both very cheap all the way to $800. Photos in this link show how I did it not drilling any holes, just used existing ones. Van Step pictures by JWAPhotos - Photobucket If anything isn't clear feel free to ask any questions.

Mind you its not a thing of beauty but for testing the concept and how it would work on a daily basis so far its been without a problem.

HTH

JWA: That looks very well made. Better than most I have seen.

Well thank you Sir----nice to hear! :) Up top it looks like 10 miles of bad road with no brakes but its solid, proved my concept was sound and when time permits I'll add better appearing extruded steps too.

I was most happy there was no drilling into the body.

I like steel those angles. Simple but strong as hell. I usually install secondary battery boxes there up front.

I like your platforms. I also like holes on the platforms, not diamond plate.