high performance bullnose trucks?
 

anyone have one? i would love to see pics and mods done!

im curious about weight reduction on a 85 RCLB f250 2wd, from what i understand they are about 5400 with a diesel engine. has anyone ever shortened the frame on these or have any insight on reducing weight?

what about drive train? what have you guys used? rear end?

it is going to have a built up 7.3l idi with built up E4OD and used as a drag truck and weekend warrior.

is there any common issues that these era trucks run into? weak spots? areas of concern? ive already started the engine build and was looking to toss it in one of these trucks because i cant really find any of these modded out so wanted to be a bit unique...

im going to pick up one next weekend for 1000$ running in good condition. :-jammin

so any pics, tips, or suggestions you guys have on it would be awesome! :-drink

You talking about something like this?
http://i608.photobucket.com/albums/t...6-098-10ja.jpg
http://i608.photobucket.com/albums/t...funford012.jpg
If I'm right, he's running a 385 series engine.

You and me both! Big engine in a little truck... hahaha!

I have been collecting parts but not started to tear into mine (yet). I'm going to cut my truck down even further to a SWB length. I got a flare side bed for it which I think is lighter than a steel bed, definitely lighter than a steel long bed. I was going to use my CCLB F350 frame and chop it in two places, but I am leaning toward a SCLB F250 frame/cab at my local JY because it would require only one cut, the cab and frame vin's match and being an F250 the frame is 3/16 inch thick instead of 1/4, so 33% less weight. I'm sure the F250 frame will be strong enough! Not willing to go with 1/8 inch F150 frame with a diesel engine though.

My engine will be a 6.9L, banks turbo, PSD intercooler, typ4 torque cam, (hopefully with those roller rocker arms :-X04) ARP studs so I can shorten the wastegate actuator and run a little more boost. I've been following the water meth injection threads on the diesel forum and decided it's a BAD idea. Not worth the risks IMHO. I'll get my gains from gearing (ZF + GV overdrive) ditching as much weight as possible etc., I like the idea of more power but I draw the line when it comes to shortened engine life or risk of severe damage if a part fails.

Are you going to keep it a 2x4? I really hate the twin I-beam suspension because of how the steering wanders. My truck will be a 4x4 with D60 front axle, but if I were doing a 2X4 I still think I might get a mono beam for it, but that's just my preference of ride and handling. I'm not into high speeds. The diesel kind of kills us on weight but oh well. I am being told that the extra front end weight will get me stuck one day (dug into the axles) but if the ground is that soft it's really not a good idea to drive on it no matter what engine you have.

Hope you start a build thread on your new truck so I can follow it and steal your ideas :D

lol me and nmb2 will be making a build thread for it in the idi section. his 7000+ dually runs about a 15ish 1/4mi. his is a dedicated tow rig/ daily driver so he didnt go balls out on it...he went reliability at a very impressive power level...we looking to get a bit more out of this one.

we have a few things to help with that but that is going to have to wait }>

yes it will stay 2x4 unless we find we need some more traction but that probably wont be an issue.

and 81choptop:

thanks, :-X06

that is the stance ill be going for but im going to stick with the regular box, little less flashy color and a stack

makes me wanna go get that truck now!!

Sounds like nmb2 already made what I am trying to make except for the size.

Oh, oh, cliff-hanger... I see how you are!8D

Are you going to shorten 18" of weight off of it or keep it a long bed?

Makes me want you to go get it too!:-drink

lets just say lots of fuel and lots of air...with supporting mods of course. with a badazz transmission behind it. and yes bed will be shortend...i just dont really like the stepside beds much

E4OD won't loose boost in between shifts... you are going to smoke nmb2 }>

Lol he will smoke him self haha he is the main brain behind this lol might be buying a new turbo as we speak

Boom got it! S366
:-X22

http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/...l/3db14d91.jpg

That was fast! This may be a dumb question, but I have read a few performance IDI threads now, and not one of them used the Banks Sidewinder... is there a reason for that? I bought mine thinking it was one of the better units available for the IDI, but the performance crowd seems to avoid it. Is this true, or just coincidence? I know that out of the box it has low boost (safe for regular head bolts) but can be turned up, no?

The wastegated banks at ats kits are top of the line "kits" made for the idis. Efficient at around 10-12 psi safe to 15 (head bolts) capible of 20 but a lot of hot air. Good for 200-220 hp at the wheels and 400-450 tq. Much better than stock at 120-150 / 250-280 at wheels. That is good performace but not quite "high" performance. Better turbos home brew kits and other supporting mods will get u too the "high" performance. Fuel is a big factor there. Stock pump just won't produce it. With more fuel need better turbo

Aaaah. Makes sense. I guess when I do a build thread on mine I will have to label it "good" performance IDI, not "high" performance IDI. When you say the Banks can make 20 psi but it's a lot of hot air, what do you mean exactly? Is it not good to run them there? Providing I put in the ARP studs when I re-build, where is the best place to set my wastegate? ...and best adjustment for the fuel screw on my (stock) pump? Sorry to hi-jack your bullnose thread and turn it into a diesel thread. :-hijacked

Out of turbo efficiency range, air is heated more then should be, plug wastegate, max fuel and mash the pedal is how you'll hit 20 lol

Better to waste it after 15 psi? Still planning on studs for longevity...

is the f450 (f superduty) 2wd front end stronger then the f250 2wd front end? anyone swap it?