No, no, no...do the easy side first. That way, if you're killed halfway through the job, you don't have to do the hard side.

If I'm killed halfway through the job then I won't really care which ones I did or did not do. :-roll But on an even brighter note, as I'm standing at the Pearly Gates waiting for judgment to be passed down upon me, God might take into consideration that was willing to do the hard tasks instead of looking for the easy way out. :-X18

I like your way of thinking.

After the last two closest to the firewall on the passenger side I wish I had paid someone to do the last ones.
What a bear.
.
I think that engineers should be made to work on the things they design so they could become better engineers.
Bet these vehicles would be easier to work on.

Need some help/ advice
 

My problems began on the 4th of July. My 05 expedition was running fine and suddenly i started seeing symptoms of needing new plugs. I had an independant mechanic replace all of the coils and 6 of the 8 plugs (he couldn't get to the two in teh back). I am going to have another mechanic do the last two tonight if he is available. I've taken the truck to CarX and another shop called "Bandy's". The rep at CarX didn't want to do the job. The mechanic at the other shop is cocnerned that there may be something going on internally which is causing a knocking noise that I have. I DO NOT know much about engines, but he suggested that it may be lifters or I may have a bad cat. I am hoping that getting those back two spark plugs changed will solve my problem, but I am in need of some direction. Please help...:-arrgh

Couldn't get to the two in the back or couldn't be bothered? :-roll

lol. couldn't be bothered. I just think he didn't feel like messing with it anymore...

You have to remove those circuit boards. It is still a tight fit and you have to perform some contorting.
The plugs did help a little with the knocking. But the main knocking comes from the variable cam set up.

Circuit boards? On my '05, I replaced all plugs myself. I was fortunate enough to buy the truck with low mileage so none broke. I did this when the intake was off, as I was replacing intake gaskets and knock sensors at the same time, which gave me plenty of space to work on.

If I were to replace the plugs again, I'd remove the PCM and the bracket, as well as the airbox and throttle body. It's about 30 mins to remove all those, quite easy (although it's not necessary of course, it is possible to replace plugs when only removing the PCM). With those removed, it's not that difficult to access cylinder 4 and 8, and replacing the plugs or COPs would be easy as long as the plug doesn't break. If it breaks, get the Lisle extractor, and perhaps a cheap borescope so you can see what you're doing.

This is why I bought a 2V model... under 2 hours start to finish to do the plugs in my driveway. And torqued properly to 15 ft lbs with the COP boots/springs replaced too.

Depends on the year. Early models took about 6 hours.

Module or circuit board, whatever.

Ok, this is why I bought an 03/04 2V lol. Simple motor, updated everything else.

As long as the plugs stay where they're supposed to.. ;) Both the 3v and the 2v has their issues, both can be overcome if you know about it in advance. This plug breaking issue is most prevalent with those who never knew about it and has high mileage on the original plugs. If you replace them at shorter mileage intervals and use anti seize on them, it will never be an issue.

Most of the 2V issues are from ppl not torquing the plugs with a wrench. The whole "finger tight and 1/4 turn" crowd found that out the hard way... The 3V... oof... my father has a 3V F150 from 2005 with like 40k miles on it and the original plugs and he is very adamant about not touching them till 100K.

I did mine when I bought the truck as I researched and found out that this was a common problem. Mine only had 32K miles on it, and I would not recommend waiting until they have 100K. None broke, but had signs of carbon starting to build up already. If he has 40K miles on them, replace them asap, get the Lisle extractor tool just in case.

I got the OTC plug socket with a fixed extender, some carb cleaner and Motorcraft dielectric grease and Motorcraft nickelbased antiseize. Crack the plugs 1/8-1/4 of a turn, spray some carb cleaner in there and let it sit for 30 mins at least, the longer the better. Then get them out one by one. Thinly coat the plugs between the threads and the ground strap, but not the ground strap with antiseize, and put one dab on the threads. Then put them back in and put a dab of dielectric grease in the COP boots.

The sooner you do this, the better. I'm gonna change them every 20k miles, just to make sure I never have to deal with broken plugs