A sort of "How to" for replacing the Clutch master Cylinder....With pics
 

Here's what I was working with...
http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/...l/100_3889.jpg

• To start off, you have 2 nuts to remove that holds the Master Cylinder onto the Firewall; Twisting the MC to the side (It will twist rotationally about 1/4 of a turn)

http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/...l/100_3888.jpg

• I found that simply using the Clutch Line Removal tool, and removing the line it's self is easier to work with....So go ahead and pull that off..It's 100% straight forward...
• Once everything is free, use a TINY 4 way screwdriver as a punch (I know, I know....But it is the only thing I found that's thin enough to go completely through) to drive out the Roll Pin in the front that holds the actual plastic hose on.

http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/...l/100_3896.jpg

http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/...l/100_3894.jpg

Here's the new Master Cylinder on the left, old one on the right..
http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/...l/100_3891.jpg

• Now, put in the little O-Ring in the end, that is supplied with the kit...

http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/...l/100_3893.jpg

• Finally, snap the new Clutch Rod into the new Master Cylinder, and it'll look like this...
  
  And don't forget the diaphragm that goes into the bowl...

http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/...l/100_3890.jpg

http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/...l/100_3898.jpg

• And then lastly, put the little foam piece in the end where the Clutch Rod goes in..

http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/...l/100_3899.jpg






Finally, put the line into the end of the Master Cylinder, gently tap the Roll Pin in to secure it...

And reattach the Master Cylinder to the Firewall, in the reverse order it was removed...

And then reattach the line to the Slave Cylinder...

Snap the Clutch Rod onto the Pedal Assembly "Nub" that pushes/pulls the Clutch Rod in/out..

Bleed the Slave Cylinder off, and VOILA!

Enjoy that mofo...:-jammin

*Side Note*
 

On a side note, being that my Clutch Interlock Switch (CIS) has been jumpered over, I simply ziptied the pigtail up out of the way..


Otherwise, you'll need to unplug it...

great info and write up, looks pretty straight forward.

It is!

Only PITA was bleeding the Slave Cylinder....By myself, but me, and a case of water did the trick...:-jammin

Excellent write up, very helpful with the pics too, will rep ya if the rep police allow me.

Thanks!...It's a VERY straight forward thing to do, but sometimes a pic helps....

So are you saying that the o ring sits in front of tube fitting and doesn't get placed around the end of the fitting?

It's sorta both..lol..

you put the O ring in the Master Cylinder end (Where the Hydraulic hose goes in) and then when you put the hose fitting into the Master Cylinder, it's a 2 stage thing...Press it in gently to make sure it doesn't upset the O ring...

And then press the hose/fitting firmly into the Master Cylinder port...It'll seat then...

You'll know when you have it...Otherwise, the Roll Pin won't go in correctly...:-X22

I ask only because I slid the o ring onto the end of the fitting up to the first slot (for lack of the proper name), and then I slid the hose/tube fitting, with the o ring on the fitting, into the MC. Hope the o ring is where it was designed to be; didn't seem to leak when I bench bled it.

Hey, as long as it works, and doesn't leak..LOL

:-jammin

CMC replaced, bleeding questions
 

I didn't have any trouble replacing the CMC thanks for the pics and write up! I am having trouble properly bleeding the system by myself, any tips or tricks to doing it yourself? I can't tell if there is even a bleed screw on the slave cylinder?

Thanks!

97 F250 HD stroker

Follow the black, plastic hydraulic hose from the mastercylinder you replaced, down to the transmission. It will enter the transmission on the drivers side, and about mid ways from top to bottom.

DIRECTLY above where the hose enters the transmission/slave cylinder, there'll be another hole in the transmission housing, and in it will be a bleeder screw, just like on a Brake System.

If I remember correctly, it's a 7/16" wrench you'll need.

Get a friend to pump the clutch pedal 5-10 times and hold it to the floor, and while they're doing that, crack the bleeder screw to allow the air out.

JUST LIKE A BRAKE SYSTEM.

*Be sure to keep a eye on the master cylinder fluid level. If it goes dry, you're screwed and get to start all over.

System uses DOT 3 Brake Fluid.

can't get my master cylinder off
 

I am having trouble getting my master cylinder off what are the size of the nuts and is there any other way to get it off?

What year is your truck?

hey y'all. brand new here. I'm trying this lovely CMC project today. How do I get the clutch pedal position switch off of the old push rod so I can put the new rod through it? Seems like it should be easy. Do i just jerk the old rod out of the old MC? What am i missing? thanks