blower motor, heater core, thermostat.
 

Hi I just recently replaced the heater core and now my dial for hot and cold won't go all the way cold. the lever that pulls the cable seems caught on something, i have no idea. and on top of that right before i replaced the heater core the heater blower motor quit working! and now after replacing the heater core I don't think the thermostat is working correctly. HELP i am losing my mind with this truck. nothing seems to work right.

can someone please give me some steps on how to fix this. Thanks.

oh yeah its a 1993 with a 5.0

i would mainly just like a reply on how to do these. just a little simple how to. i have found one showing how to disassemble the blower motor but doesn't even tell me where to find it or what i have to disassemble to get to it. Also ive changed a thermostat in a 1993 bmw but not in a ford f 150 so i don't know where to start. and I just remembered my e break line is non existent. the line goes back to a splitter and then it has some tubes coming out of it but then it ends. how difficult is it to hook up the break cable to the rear breaks?

I am going to fix this truck up and sell it because I need something with better gas mileage due to a further commute than I had when I bought it.

So far I have had to replace a fuel pump, fuel filter, water pump and heater core. Hope this is it before I sell it...

Blower motor on these may be one of the easiest automotive jobs you will ever do. It is tucked under the windshield cowl behind the right-side fenderwell, you can't miss it. On the 8gens it was held in with 3 screws with 8mm heads, yours may differ slightly. You do not really need to remove anything to get at it, although you may if you wish. IIRC just a few hoses that can be held out of the way by tucking them behind something else.

Stat is on the front of the intake, that's pretty hard to miss too. On the small-frame trucks like the Exploder you have to remove the belt and the bypass hoses, don't know about yours. On this model you would be wise to get a hold of some RTV seal to hold the stat inside the housing while you assemble it, they're pretty easy to crack otherwise.

If your experience to date is with BMWs, you will find this a very rewarding job. It can be done in less than an hour with just a few sockets and a small extension.

Also, are you SURE it's the blower motor and not the blend door or wiring?

im not 100% sure if its wiring or not. but all i know is i was driving and the heater blower quit. It wasn't working that strong to begin with. but the easiest way to find out would just be to replace the blower motor. If it fixes the problem then I will know, If not Ill do something else. But seeing as its not a very difficult replacement I might as well since Im sure its never been replaced before.

The blower resistor could be going south too. Best to replace the resistor and the blower at the same time, one usually fails after the other.

are they right next to each other?

If the resistor failed you would still have the "high" setting working.

You will see it as a multi-wire plug screwed into the plastic heater box at the back of the engine bay.

Just follow the wires from the blower motor.