55 239 Y-Block Restoration Thread
 

Well, I decided to try a restoration thread for my engine. I won't call it a rebuild thread because that indicates some type of skill in working on engines.

Hopefully this will help me learn more about what I'm doing as well as help someone else that might be doing this work as well.

I bought my truck from my wife's grandpa back in 2002. I started to work on getting the engine running, but our third child came along and the city decided they didn't like my truck parked in my driveway since it didn't run. So it sat at my in-laws until we moved into our current house with a garage. At that time, I decided to tear everything down to the frame....boy lots of learning to do.

This motor ran when parked (in about 1972) I was told it had about 30,000 miles on the rebuild from Consolidated Rebuilders out of Hutchinson Kansas.

Here are some specs on the motor:
Motor #: EBV94250
Cylinder Heads:
Driver side: EBV-B
Passenger side: ECG-C (Note this is a head for 272 so they do interchange)
Exhaust Manifold:
Drivers: ECE-9431
Passenger: ECE-9430-B
Intake Manifold: EBV94250

I have a bunch of photos out on photobucket:
Engine pictures by harrier1351 - Photobucket

Here is the rebuild tag:
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/.../EngineTag.jpg

Here is my thread on the oil pump:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-cleaning.html

Here is the thread on removing the lower pulley:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...y-removal.html

Here is the engine as the truck sat in the pole barn when I bought it:
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...ne/Engine2.jpg

http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...ne/Engine1.jpg

When I first got it, I started digging into the engine:
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...inusIntake.jpg

http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...e-leftHead.jpg

Here it is years later with the front clip removed. Notice that several parts are painted. These have been sitting painted like that for 8 to 10 years.
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...lipRemoved.jpg

Here is the engine coming out:
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/.../Engine056.jpg

And on the Stand;
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...ngine/2015.jpg

It sat on the stand for a long time while I was cleaning up the frame.

I cleaned up the oil pan and was trying to put it back on and was having a dickens of a time. It then hit me. It's on an engine stand. So I flipped it and then it went on easy.
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...alPaint010.jpg

http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...alPaint012.jpg

I then painted it while it was upside down:
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...alPaint014.jpg

Flipped it back over and painted the rest:
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...alPaint017.jpg

I used Dupli-Color Daytona Yellow, that is very close to original color.

I hope to put it back on the frame next weekend and then start working to see if I can get it to run. No telling how long that will take me.

Nice pics.
If you are going original the valve covers should be argent silver and the oil pan black.
I did my 55 239 Y block all original.

Well, I painted the valve covers black before I got into what the original colors actually were. I also painted my water pump black....
Now the oil pan was yellow, notice the color of it as I was pulling it off the frame.
Of course there is the 195 post "How to properly color a Y-Block?" thread
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...a-y-block.html
Interesting read with no real consensus. But pictures do show the oil pan yellow. Post #55 has a good factory picture.

My main goal is to just get it working without breaking the bank...If I can keep it close to stock that's great too.

Edit: Just checked out your truck and engine, very nice!! My truck was originally sea sprite green as well, at this point that's what I'm going with. Mine had a aftermarket flatbed on it, so I'm going to keep some sort of flatbed, maybe all wood.....that doesn't make me a darksider does it?

Got the colors I quoted from a 1955 Ford Dealer's Brochure that shows argent valve covers and black oil pan.
Love the Sea Sprite Green. Mine is clear coated that gives a very shinny appearance.

I mis spoke. The valve covers are gray not argent.
Sorry!!

Looking good there, Harrier. I believe I would leave the oil pan as you have it painted. I would think these engines were assembled, then fully painted and installed. I paid particular close attention when I pulled the virgin engine from my '56 F350. I am convinced the engine was painted yellow, water pump to bell housing and intake manifold to clutch cover. Even the original pressure plate had over spray of yellow paint thereon which tells me something. Accessories were probably added just prior to or during engine installation. Makes no sense to me why an oil pan would be different color unless it was some special rust preventive coating or paint. Knowing Ford did not care about rust at this time frame, I doubt if that was the case. I have a complete engine from a '56 F-100 and the intake, bell housing was originally yellow but the block and heads had been painted at sometime when the engine was overhauled.
Valve covers on both engines appear to have been a silver / gold, probably metallic . Years of heat cool cycles have made a color id impossible. i went back argent on mine. If not original, very close. Mine looks like those engines in the thread you mention. Hope I did not:-hijacked.
Again, looks good.

Thanks raytasch, no hijack there.
I have two main reasons for doing this thread
1. So you guys can catch anything I'm doing stupid before I hurt myself or cost myself tons of money.
2. I'm hoping my pictures and documentation might help someone in the future.

I'm always open to comments/suggestions/history lessons.
The more I read the more I think that there were no 100% standards. Having a different color oil pan sounds odd since it would be easier to paint it all at once, but I wouldn't be the least bit surprised to see some different colors from the factory.

Well, minor setback.
In the picture you will notice a crack in the thermostat housing, well it's not a crack any more. Time to find a new one. Auto parts stores won't have this, so I have some searching to do. If anyone has a spare they want to sell...

http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...ngine/2021.jpg

Don't throw it out yet, Joe.
I've had good luck with good welders fixing these things. As long as there is still good meat on the rest of it (not all rusted out) it can be cleaned up and braised back by someone who knows what he is doing with a torch. The water pressure is minimal...slim

National Parts Depot has it listed page 92 of 7th edition catalog. Yeah, I would attempt the repair first. New soft gasket and be careful on the install. Replace that rusted bypass outlet if you repair your housing.

Joe, I think I have an extra T stat cover....can look if you want. If so you are welcome to it. Are 272-292 the same?

Well Macs Auto says the car one is the same for 239 through 312. They don't seem to have the truck one. I would think they are the same.

I would really appreciate it if you could look for me.

If memory serves me right the housing for the car has the bypass off to the side where the truck is at the bottom as you show in your picture. The picture you show looks like the one on my 272 but dimensions for the 239 could be different.. If you were closer I would braze yours.:-wink

The car has the inlet pipe at a 45 degree angle and truck has it straight like mine.
Both the tabs are broken off, but brazing might be the answer. The downside there is I don't know of anyone who does that type of work.

If Scott has one that will be the easiest, I can then keep my broken one and find someone to braze that sometime. You can never have too many parts.

Just reread my last post, when I said I think they are the same, I meant the 239 through 312. Where is our resident expert (I mean genius) on part numbers?

Joe, I do have one like yours pictured. Let me pull it off the manifold tomorrow to make sure it is good. I will PM you......

Does yours have a part number on it?

I appreciate it, the part number is hard to read, but it has EBV 85? A there is a 9 on the other side.
It looks like bolt to bolt is 3.5 inches.
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...0120218003.jpg

Here arethe broken pieces:
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...0120218001.jpg

Someone also mentioned replacing the bypass tube since it is rusted, this one is all one piece it seems, so that would require my welder (once I find him) to weld that on as well, correct?

Ring Gear question
 

I'm putting the ring gear back on and I'm having some issues.
First, stupid question; Am I putting it on the right direction? Flat side toward transmission? I can't believe I don't have a picture of this before. I was sure I took some...
Second, I'm having a hard time getting the bolts to line up. Am I doing something wrong there as well? I might be able to get the bolts all in, but I would have thought they would have lined up better.
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...0120218006.jpg

The flywheel will only go on in one position, bolt pattern specific. Rotate till it fits. The bolts should line up and go in with your fingers. No need to force or use a wrench. Chase threads in crankshaft. The direction is right. Bust that rust off the clutch surface and chase the clutch threads. Torque on the flywheel is 75-85 ft lbs. I use blue locktight. BTW, if you want to send me that broken housing I will attempt a repair job next time I fire the torch up.......No guarantees, though.
I went back and looked at the picture again, I believe it is on the right way, the clutch mounting bolt holes and wear marks are visible. Not sure, though.

Well the ring gear was on backwards.
I rotated it a couple of times and couldn't get the holes to line up.
I then flipped it (Then noticed where the clutch wore) and was able to get the holes to line up.
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...gEngine001.jpg

raytasch, PM sent on the thermostat housing.

PS. I like the new way pictures are displaying, smaller and then you can click on them to make them bigger, cool.

Well, I have the engine back on the frame. Exciting day for me so far.
It was not without scares though. I was lowering the engine and I turned the release just a smidgen too far and the engine lowered quickly to the ground, well part of the frame caught it. Once I changed my pants there didn't seem to be any damage except some scuffed paint.

This would have gone smoother if I had help, especially since I have never done this before. Wonderful learning experiences though.

Here she is on the frame. If all goes well, it's on for good, but it won't bother me to pull it again. More learning opportunities.
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...gEngine005.jpg

http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...gEngine006.jpg

http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...gEngine004.jpg

She looks comfortable back where she belongs, congats, on getting it done by yourself.

Thanks. My wife often says that she would like to be able to have this truck fixed up for me. Her heart is in the right place, but she doesn't quite understand what it is like to be able to say that I built it. So far this has been an amazing challenge for me, especially now that I'm beginning to see some good progress.

Man Joe! that looks great!

Did you get a different T-stat housing? The bypass should be a steel tube pressed into the housing.

Ahhh, I see. I thought the bypass was all part of the housing. Looking closer I can see where it could be a steel tube pressed in.
Thanks to raytasch and tinman52 I have lines on both a replacement and repair of my existing. Hopefully, I will have two before this is all over.

I would like to start hording parts, just in case and to help out others. If I start small my wife might not notice. :)

Well, I decided to look at the transmission too.
Here is the video of it. Everything looks pretty good. I will probably just clean and paint the outside, change the oil inside and put it back on. (after the engine gets running.) If you guys think it needs anything, just let me know.
Ford T-98 transmission - YouTube

Here are a couple of pics:
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...mission005.jpg

http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...mission007.jpg

Well I started putting more parts back on today.
The exhaust manifolds will need to come back off for cleaning.
I will need to get new bolts for the crossover pipe. I think I need to get fully threaded bolts with no head and put nuts on them. I think that is how they were....Had to have them removed years back.
The vacuum advance was blocked; I got that cleared.
The flex line going to the fuel pump is broken, so I need to get a new one of those which you can't get locally. Easy to get through mid fifties though. I need to come up with a few other things to purchase to save on shipping.

I had the starter checked today and it is running fine.
If you guys have tips on things to do before trying to start it up, I would appreciate it. I'm sure I'm a week or two off. Should I try to feed fuel directly to the carb or should I get that fuel line and feed through the fuel pump?

http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...0120220005.jpg

Well, I think I'm close to trying to start the engine.
I modified the broken flex line to I could get gas to the fuel pump.
It worked out perfectly where it was broken to put a hose on it; that is until it broke again. Fortunately the hose was able to fit over the larger part.
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...uelLine001.jpg

http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...uelLine002.jpg

Do you guys have any suggestions on steps for starting it up the first time?
I think I just need to get power to the coil and gas to the carb.
I'm going to fill the fuel pump bowl, is there a good way to fill the carb as well?

I plan on just having a battery handy for starting, any special tips on getting power to the coil?

Don't know how good, but you could attach the fuel line to the carb, slip some rubber fuel line onto the other end, and carefully pour a couple of ounces of gas down the gullet into the fuel bowl. You could also carefully (don't make the gasket fubar) remove the air horn and fill the bowl that way.

Replace the oil filter and fill with oil. Replace that old brittle fuel hose with a piece of fresh 3/8" fuel hose. If you've not done so, rebuild the carb. When I bring one out of long term storage, I like to use a portable tank with fresh gas. If you plan to do this get several feet of the 3/8" fuel hose. Clean the tank, probably have to have it boiled. A radiator shop can do this.
Pull the plugs and spin the engine 'till oil pressure is seen. By now you will have fuel at the carb if the pump is working. One thing you want to check while cranking or soon after it starts is the rocker assemblies for oil reaching them. When it starts, bring the RPM up a bit to get splash lubrication to the wrist pins and cam / lifter area.
A jumper wire from the non distributor side of the coil to the battery will get you fire to the ignition system if you are unsure of the existing wiring.
Good luck.

HAVE A FIRE EXTINGUISHER HANDY

Am parting out my complete 53/54 239 Y block & truck box , am happy to help get parts to people who need them for a restoration ... feel free to drop me a PM , Greg in the Uk !

Well I hooked up a battery to the starter and it spun for a second then stopped.
So I took it apart and here is what I found.
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...Starter013.jpg

So do I need to find a new starter? I don't think that crack is supposed to be there.

Here are more pictures of the starter being torn apart for those that are interested.
Starter pictures by harrier1351 - Photobucket

Is there a shop near you that rebuild alternators and generators? I had my starter rebuilt 12 years ago by such a shop...

Good idea, there are a couple in the town I work in, I will run it by them on Monday.

I also saw that NAPA has some 6 volt starters pretty cheap. (About $60) Since I'm planning on going 12 volt, I wonder if they will work? I've read that 6 volt starters will work with 12 volts, but I'm always cautious with stuff like that.

$60.00 for a starter is a good buy at today's prices on this old stuff. I would run out and buy it. A six volt Ford starter will generally live a long time on twelve volts. Just do not run the starter for long times without giving it time to cool.

Joe, did you receive the thermostat housing yet? I mailed it on Tuesday. If so, does it fit OK?