Speaking of dash's, tach's and wiring....
 

I picked up a generic 12 circuit deal from EZ Wiring thinking (hoping) it would be mostly plug and play. It aint. A couple things to know for anyone attempting to rewire their vehicle:
1) You will be altering the stock wiring configuration.
2) You'd better know wiring.
I wont go into the ugly details, but I do need help with something. My original ignition switch has 3 terminals and a threaded post in the center. My EZ wiring diagram states that the term at 12 o'clock is the power source from the battery (EZ wire IGN SWITCH PWR). The term at 7 o'clock is supposed to be the ignition (EZ wires IGN SWITCH COIL AND IGN SWITCH IGNITION) and the last one at 5 o'clock is accessories (EZ wire IGN SWITCH ACC). The center post is supposed to be ignition start.
Can anyone confirm this?
That being said, when I hook up in this manner the starter turns the moment I touch the starter wire to the center post regardless of the ignition key position.
Please help with diagrams, pics, and lamens terms for the ignorant. Thx.

This is the switch you have now. It is not the original, it's C7UZ-11572-A .. the 1967 switch that the idiots at FoMoCo replaced the original 1961/66 switch C3AZ-11572-A with. :-arrgh

Why, I dunno, because it's been a PITA since the idiots did that, because it has an extra terminal.

AFAIK, only FTE member Confederate Diesel has the wiring schematic to wire the '67 switch to a 1961/66.

At one time, when you bought the little charmer from FoMoCo, the '67 switch came with an instruction sheet, but it went bye-bye decades ago. :(

C3AZ-11572-A .. Ignition Switch (Motorcraft SW-353) / Obsolete/Replaced

Original applications: 1960/64 Galaxie/Falcon/Fairlane / 1961/66 F100/1100 & Econoline / 1965/1966 Mustang / 1966 Bronco.
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C7UZ-11572-A (replaced C3AZ-11572-A) .. Ignition Switch (Motorcraft SW-583) / Available from Ford.

Original applications: 1967 F100/750 & Econoline / 1967/77 Bronco.

Well it makes no difference now since I just broke the damn thing by using a screwdriver instead of putting the cylinder back in.
Did ya know they make generic ones now that are already labeled and everything?!? Modern technology...its amazing! I can tell you that the $20 I just spent on a new ignition switch already equaled the time I spent trial and erroring this old p.o.s. Maybe now I wont have another heart attack as I touch the wrong lead and have my truck roar to life all on its own....thank God it wasnt in gear.
One more question though, my starter solenoid has 2 small terminals on top. The one closest to the battery side has my ignition hooked to it. What connects to the small term on the starter side? My new EZ Wiring kit doesnt have it wired up for anything. Thx.

If you're in LA LA Land, try Engler Brothers Auto Parts, 2630 Pico Blvd in Santa Monica for an original switch (310-450-7531 ~ englerbros.com).

This is the best dang autoparts store for older vehicles, prolly on planet Earth.

Relay
 

Relay has two small posts. One is for starting, the other provides 12v to the coil during startup. Most of these trucks came with points and the run circuit was 6v to save the points. That is what the pink resistor wire on fords and the ballast on cheeevees.

Hmm. So what does that mean for my new wiring, Pertronix coil, and elec ign upgrade? The coil resistance is 3 ohm. Should I be concerned about burning something up?

When I installed my ''Pertronix'' the directions said to bypass the resister wire and wire
it direct? but I did not have a ''pink'' resister wire, being my motor was a later model
351w, so don't really know how to direct you other than the info that came with my kit?
Hope you figure it out? if not go to there web page and should give you more info?

Thanks, Huck. I guess Ive already bypassed the resistor wire since there was nothing left of the original wiring by the time I started. I think my kit may have actually come with one. I gotta go thru the bag and look but Im hoping I dont need it. One less thing to be confused about. Sounds like I dont need it if the original design, as William states, was to provide 12v at start and reduce it to 6 for running. Even a different motor that did not have a resistor wire and is still instructed to connect directly is gonna put 12v to the coil so it must be able to handle it, right? Should I use this theory or contact Pertronix?

All FoMoCo vehicles (except a few 60's big trucks that had transistor ignition) from 1960 thru 1986, and some thru 1991 have a resistor wire.

1960 thru 1971 all (except as noted above): COLF-12250-A .. Resistor Wire, Ignition Coil (Motorcraft DY-37).

61.49" long / Color coded pink / 1.30-1.40 ohms resistance / #20 gauge wire.

I cant reach Pertronixs' tech support but I keep reading that their 3 ohm coil is designed to take 12 volts and still protect the ignition.

*Keep in mind Im using the EZ Wiring 12 circuit generic kit and its not matching my Ford wiring diagram*
Wiring the dash has me a bit stuck and I could use any and all suggestions. Ive tried a few different configurations but Im lacking in some knowledge of how this system should receive power.
Ive got the 3 panel lights and the 3 guage lights wired together. Ive tried every configuration I can think of. When I put the guages to the acc, my fuel guage gets pegged full starts to burn. I havent noticed any reading on the oil pressure guage either. When I think Ive got the panel lights wired up, the indicator lights come on. I could really use a full rundown of how to hook all this up. Thanks a bunch!!

You should have a Dash gauge voltage regulator that grounds to the dash and must
be plugged in to regulate the ohms going to your fuel and temp gauge'' on the back of your gauge panel look for a small metal box with I believe 2 blades on it, one is the ground the other connects your gauge harness? make sure both are plugged in if not, your fuel and temp gauge will peg out!..hope this helps as I'm not sure how everything is wired with the EZ wire system? PS, on some older ''post's there are some schematics showing how the dash is wired, get on and search and you should find what your looking for.

OH'' also go on the Pertronix web site'' there is some info about the installation process
and Trouble shooting? or at least there used to be?

B9MZ-10804-C .. ICVR (Motorcraft GR-508) / Obsolete

Applications: 1957/66 F100/1100 / 1963/69 N/NT/T500/1000 / 1966/77 Bronco / 1967/69 F800/1000.

1960/65 Falcon/Comet / 1960/66 Ford Custom/Galaxie/500 XL/LTD & Thunderbird / 1962/65 Fairlane / 1965/66 Mustang.

If replacing, make sure to take the original with you to the autoparts store to match it up.

There were 10 other types of these puppies used 1957/91. Most autoparts store parts clucks won't know one from another.

Its all coming clear to me now and Ive turned the corner!
Yeah, Ive got the regulator (new actually) and I know what youre referring to behind the dash. My schematic calls it a constant voltage thingamajig. I can see now how the gauges work properly when I apply 12v to its IGN pin (which is stamped on it) and the gauges to the other side (dont the fuel and oil sensors ground themselves?), and it reduces it to what..6v? Whatever, it works!
Now, I also have to wire the idiot lights to a power source as well as the regulator, right? As you say, its the regulator that indicates via the ALT light, that theres been a drop in voltage. Im sure I'll end up having to learn exactly how that works but Im hoping for a tip on to how to wire up the warning lights to the regulator, as it is not that detailed in my diagram. Is the regulator the warning lights' power source? Hell, my diagram doesnt even include the hazard flasher I blew trying to guess that configuration.
By the way Huck, I always search for my own answers before posting them. However, Im sure you know that doing a key word search in a database of posts this size, and finding exactly what youre looking for, is like finding a needle in a haystack. Theres plenty of opinion and theory which is great if Im looking to formulate my own answers to my questions but I dont have that skill level. At this point I need to be told that A + B = C and I rarely get that. It leaves me with the option of trial and error and thats great for trying to hook up my tv to the stereo receiver, but I actually gotta drive this thing safely. :-blah

Oh, and thanks ND. You were right on the money about taking my old regulator in with me. Its great that Napa Auto Parts has the computer monitors facing out so I can see what theyre looking at but with your wealth of product numbers, its a slam dunk. If only you could tell me which shelf they have it stocked on I could just go help myself and avoid waiting in line. :D