Y-Block Lower Pulley removal
 

I am cleaning up my 239 Y-Block and have another inexperienced user (Thought I would use nice terms for myself) question.

I'm trying to remove the Timing Chain Cover so I can clean it all up.
I need to remove the lower pulley(what do you call it?), but I can't see how without possibly doing something bad to my engine.

There is a bolt inside the pulley that I have been using to turn the engine, so I would need to somehow get the engine not to turn and put a lot of force on that bolt. How would I go about doing that?

It's good you guys are patient with guys like me. I've never done anything like this or anything I'm doing on this truck, so you guys keep me from costing myself a lot of money.
Here are a couple of pictures of where I'm at:
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...ngChain004.jpg
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...rePaint015.jpg

Harrier, an impact wrench is the easiest way to break the bolt holding the vibration damper.. No impact wrench, a power handle with a few hammer blows will work. The sharp blow is what will break it loose. Remember, righty tighty, lefty loosey. It should have been torqued to 85-90 ft lbs and is right hand thread. Good luck and have fun.
I just went back and read that you're working on a 239 CID Y block. I feel certain the torque I gave you is correct but it is the torque for a 272 thru 312 CID engines.
Another edit: Some of those bolts you have loose go into the coolant system and will need sealer when going back together.
And that may be just a crank pulley on your engine. I can not see any evidence of any rubber mountings.

Raytasch, Thanks for that info. Especially the sealer on the bolts.

Now, I haven't heard power handle before...would that be the same as a breaker bar? Because I hit that with the hammer and it just spins the crank. Is there a safe way to hold the crank so it won't spin?

Joe
Try a soft wood block between the engine block and one of the crank weights.

Allan

Power handle = breaker bar. Probably a bad choice of words on my part. :-X17Normally with the spark plugs in the engine there will be enough compression, and internal resistance of the engine that a sharp blow with a breaker bar will free the bolt. If not, position a block of wood between a counterweight of the crankshaft and the block.
A couple flywheel bolts installed and a bar between them and the block would also work to make the CS solid.

FTE shows its awesomeness once again.

I used the block of wood technique. Here are some pictures for anyone ever wanting to do this. If the pictures show me doing something stupid, be sure to comment so the next person doesn't do it as well. (maybe I should put that in my signature. :))

http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...kPulley001.jpg

Once the bolt came out, I hit around on the pulley with a rubber mallet a bit to loosen it up and then put a pry bar between it and the block and that got it moving.
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...kPulley003.jpg
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...kPulley005.jpg

Now I can remove the timing chain cover and get that cleaned up.
You have no idea how much I appreciate your kind guidance.

Hey, dumb question here.
What type of sealant should I use on the bolts?
Should I use a Loctite thread locker or maybe a permatex product?
I want to make sure I do it right.
Oh, here is my painted timing chain cover, it is anxious to start covering again.
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...Painted004.jpg

Thanks for posting the pics and sharing the info. Probably be doing something similar with my Y block soon.

I appreciate that, I plan on creating a engine restore thread soon to cover everything I'm doing. I won't call it a rebuild thread because I'm not doing that much. It has been an interesting challenge since I have never done anything like this before.

This weekend I went to visit my parents and stopped over at my uncle's independent auto parts store. He directed me to Permatex 2 non-hardening form-a gasket sealant.
So I'm off and running on this.