Where is the crankshaft position sensor located?
 

Need to know where the crankshaft is located on my 2006 F350 6.0.

thanks in adavance,

jst

Welcome to FTE; hopefully this will help you out:
http://dan.prxy.org/Truck/6L_bible_h..._Locations.jpg

It doesnt look like too difficult of a spot from the pictures of the engine, but the A/C Compressor is right in the way...assuming you have air conditioning. I am not sure if you can replace it without removing the A/C compressor. I'm sure someone else can chime in on that.

I thought I was having issues with mine a while back, but come to find out the Camshaft sensor was malfunctioning. The signals it was sending were not syncing with the crankshaft sensor properly and it was causing my truck to have a minor fluctuation in RPMs at idle. Luckily the camshaft sensor (on the driver's side of the engine) was fairly easy to get to and replace.

Thanks for the help, does not look like fun, there is so much stuff in the way. I was having issues with hard starting when cold, below 30 degrees, i was getting codes for the ficm and injectors, i took the ficm out and was going to replace the capacitors, but could not get the solder to reflow completely to remove them, so i just resoldered them and re-installed the ficm, now truck won't start and getting the crankshaft code. most likely the issue is the ficm, but wanted to check the crankshaft sensor.

jst

Is your Tach moving when cranking?

I bet you are right when you say it isn't the CKP.

The sensor is located about 4 inches behind the a/c comprssor. First - disconnect the batteries! A bracket will then need to be removed: The two lines to the tranny filter go under the bracket (wiring bundle bracket that also secures the ground wires to the block above the oil pan and above the steering stabilizer) that needs to be unbolted to gain access. It is held in with an 8mm bolt - a long (16 inch) extension with a pivoting adapter is what is needed. Long needle nose pliers with a 45 degree bend would have helped also. Like stated before, unplug sensor before removing and plug it in after installing. (The wire is not long enough to make it easier after removing sensor.) Long skinny arms and a lift will help alot.

Some folks remove the A/C compressor to access it more easily, but it really is a lot more work that way AND one bolt is at a horrible angle, so if you do .......... BE CAREFUL not to strip it.

Removed the ficm again to make sure i did not bend any pins when i reinstalled it, all pins were straight. re-installed ficm again, connected pc with AE software, watched rpm while cranking, rpm registered, truck started, missfired a little, then started running normally. the ficm main power starts out at 48v when key is first turned on, then drops while cranking and running, I dont know how low it goes because AE stops at 40v, after warming up it will come back up to 48v at idle, but drops when rpms increase. and AE still showing the FICM performance code, no injector codes yet, but they will eventually.

So, the FICM dropped to as far as you can tell 40V? I would be sending that out if I were you.

+ 1 .

Just got my FICM back from Ed at ficmrepair.com. http://ficmrepair.com bismis recommended him, Truck is running great. Also installed 2 matching Interstate batteries. 850 cranking each

Beatuiful...

I love a happy ending.
How did you get your ficm repaired in one afternoon?

I thought the same thing..thought it got repaired fairly fast.

sig40 is not the OP

Duhhh...maybe I ain't any smarter than I look...

got my ficm back today, installed and short test run. working good.