1965 F100 Buildup
 

Hey guys, posted a couple times on here before but i've mostly been a lurker. Been waiting till i got going on my project. I bought it from a member on here awhile ago but hadn't been able to get it home. But now i got it.

From the inspection and registration tags it looks like it was last on the road around '87. Its mostly there, needs cab mounts and the supports right under the center of the floor on the cab. A couple other small things but overall mostly solid.

I've gotten it to "run" by crossing the starter solenoid and coil, then dumping some fuel down the carb. So there is some life in it.

Initial plan is to just get it on the road and quick as possible. I'd like to avoid the complete tear down if at all possible. I'll get a photo hosting account here shortly and show some pics.

Tag info, my color code is blank so this is an ordered truck?
VIN: F10DK684219
129 F100 D81-G 07
5000 172 4000 532869


Keith

This back in this spring where i had it stored till i could get it home.
http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/...x/DSCN0314.jpg

Made it home finally.
http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/...x/DSCN0004.jpg

Got the bed swept out and the new exhaust out of the cab.
http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/...x/DSCN0041.jpg

There was a few layers of crud on the windows, this is a halfway done pic.
http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/...x/DSCN0040.jpg

Can anyone tell what kind of mirrors this truck came with? Is it three mounting locations or just two?
http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/...x/DSCN0044.jpg

Complete teardowns are huge projects, and you are sure to find suprises. The best approach is a rolling resto. This way you can enjoy the truck while you sort out the problems. It's taken me some time to work through various issues on my truck. I have had the advantage of time to do research on parts and techniques, so that I am making the proper repairs complete and long lasting. It's also fun. Have a good time.

Kurt

Looks like you have a great vehicle to start with. Is that some damage tot he rear passenger part of the box? Thats about the only thing I see that could be rough to fix.

Yeah it looks like it got bumped into the side of a building or something. The taillight metal i think is replaceable, i thought i remember seeing it in dennis carpenter or lmc. But yeah just in front of that its going to need some attention too.

I believe the bed is 66 according to the dent on the wheel wells.

Probably aftermarket mirrors have been used along the way, as well as west coast.



John :-X06

Yeah. Those were towing mirrors. Just weld in the upper holes and smooth it out. Find a set of smaller mirrors you like and put them on the doors.

I agree with the rolling resto. Yank the complete interior and clean up the floors, fix cab mounts then just find a nice set of bucket seats to install.

Brakes are the big item. I'd prefer to use a dual res master cylinder.
Get the drum brakes torn apart and inspect them all. Let us know how they look. And if it's mostly reusable then I'd say replace wheel cylinders and run it. If it needs drums and shoes and all the hardware then I'd look into a disk brake swap. (or find a cv front end for it)

Glad you got I home finally. Id say yank a lot of it apart and clean what you can. Then put most of it back together so it runs and moves by itself.

Later we will instruct you on how to put a big turbo in the bed and megasquirt. (haha)

Nice to see it has the original radio in it and has not been cut for a new one!
if you put in a new radio, put in the glovebox or under the seat' just a suggestion?
Too many of the dashes have been cut on these ole girls..

Good eye on the radio.
That thing is mint. I'm sure someone makes a direct fit for that by now.
But yeah, I wouldn't cut the dash unless it was already ruined.
He will figure something out I'm sure.

Here's a decode for you. F10 = 2 wheel pick-up truck. D = 352 V8 2bbl engine. K = built in Kansas City. 684219 = built in May, 1965. 129 = wheelbase in inches. F100 = 5000 pound GVW half ton truck. No external paint code (along with the six digit DSO code) indicates a special order paint job. D81 = Custom Cab with light beige crush vinyl & medium beige ladder pattern woven plastic interior. G = 3 speed automatic transmission. 07 = Ford non-limited slip differential with 3.25 ratio. 5000 = gross vehicle weight in pounds. 172@4000 = net horsepower and the rpms where its rated at. 532869 = Domestic Special Order from the Kansas City sales office. Regarding your mirror question, see the current external mirror thread. That should answer your question. Have fun with your new toy!

Thanks for the vin decode!

Deciding to get the cab structure/body work done first. I got the interior torn out of it today.
http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/...x/DSCN0047.jpg

It's got some swiss cheese issues, but not as bad as it could be i suppose. Has anyone modified the gas pedal so that it's not floor mounted? I was hoping to just adjust the metal piece and add a 'traditional' pedal to it.
http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/...x/DSCN0046.jpg

And the PO also added this, i plan on taking it out. Kind of scabbed in the harness. That will come later..
http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/...x/DSCN0052.jpg

So from what i've gathered people like carolina and dennis carpenter best for the body/cab panels right?

Keith

You can harvest a pan from another truck to 79, 100,250,350 4 wheel, any will work. You will not use area beyond seat area.

Only quality parts sold at CC & DC.




John :-X06

Keith, those holes in the floor arent too bad. I dont think I would bother with buying replacements of hunting some up in a yard. Just a couple of pieces of 18 or 20g mild steel with fix you up easily. Cut, patch, weld.

Looks like you need to get replacement center cab mounts, fix the running board/step area, and piece in a small piece of the floor with a piece of 18 or 20g. I have a few pics here of how I fixxed mine: https://picasaweb.google.com/1081911...17656077309202 Theres a few pics there of what I did.

Hows your front cab mounts look? If they are shot, avoid the the single piece stamped steel ones. Im still fighting with mine. Get the 2 piece version that used from the factory.

Of course alot of this depends on how handy you are with a welder, and sheetmetal. ;)

There is a complete floor (including cab mounts, cab corners and rocker panels) listed in that major auction site for $250 obo. The guy sounds like he'll cut it up to send only the pieces needed to minimize shipping from CA. It includes the center cross support that appears you may also need. I'd ask for better pictures of the floor since there appears to be rust or dirt buildup.

Alot of folks may not like dealing with getting parts from an auction site, but I have been very happy (maybe lucky) so far.

It is listed as "1964-1965-1966-ORIGINAL-FORD-PICKUP-TRUCK-FLOOR-PAN"

I'm glad you suggested just using sheets of steel to fix those, i didn't really want to spend money for all new floor pieces just for those couple areas. Thanks for the how to pic on the cab brace that doesn't look too bad really to fix.

Front cab mounts are gone. I see CC sells a two piece, DC's website doesn't say whether or not its a 2 piece.

I'm good enough to be dangerous with a welder! haha. But i've only ever done a couple small patches on a beater car i had, never anything structural or as in depth as this. Should i tackle floor first then cab mounts, vica versa? I'd like to keep the truck as together as possible but i figure i'll probably have to take the front clip off for ease of cab mount replacement.

Keith