Replacing Leaf Springs on 1950 Ford F1
 

Folks, really need some help with getting the leaf off my '50 F1. I have the manual and followed the steps but no glory. I have been able to remove the U Bolts and the cap but I can't get the Shackle Bolts out. There must be a method that I am not aware of, I have let Royal Purple lube soak with no luck. I have a couple of pictures to illustrate my issue. Any help for an old new guy....Thanks...:-drink
http://calnica.com/images/F1/FromBook-small.jpg
Here is a picture of the Front:

http://calnica.com/images/F1/frontedit-small.jpg
And one of the rear, the repair manual states to work from the inside of the frame out, may work on the back, hasn't yet for me but have no idea how it would work in the front???
http://calnica.com/images/F1/rear%20edit-small.jpg

Wow, this is the third thread in about a week about how to remove rear leaf springs.

In summary, you'll need to drill a hole on each side of the crossmember and use a long punch, bolt, socket extension, etc., to drive the shackle pin out.

Read through these posts and look for pictures that I posted to show exactly what I described above.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...r-springs.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-temp-fix.html

As for removing the shackle itself, you need to work from the inside of the frame. There should be a hole in the frame and through the shackle bracket. The pin inside may be worn and notched. If you bang it hard enough, it will come out eventually. Just keep at it. You can also try to remove it from the front by turning the zerk fitting with some vice grips clockwise and pulling out. When I worked on my rear springs, one or two shackle pins came out that way enough for me to whack the rest out from the inside.

Thanks, Panel Man...Going to Sears and getting a bigger hammer tomorrow...

You can also try heating up the spring around the shackle with some MAPP gas before you whack it with a punch and hammer.

Instead of a BFH, you can also use a good air impact hammer with an extension on the end.

Good luck. Let us know how your progress goes.


EDIT: When you get a chance, please update your general location through your "User CP" section at the top of the page. This way if you're looking for parts or help, there might be another person near you that can help you out.

In my particular instance I'm convinced that if I didn't use an impact gun, there wasn't enough BFH effort available to get the Pins out. Because the Springs / Shackles etc. move around, you don't really get much energy applied directlky to the pins. The impact gun hits so quickly it works. I couldn't even pound the lock pins out. With an impact gun they just fell out.

Good Luck

if all else fails remove the spring brackets from frame and replace rivets with grade 8 bolts and nuts. Grinding off 16 rivets sure will save a lot of knuckles. Just my 2c worth. it is what I did.

You guys make this way too hard. If you remove the grease fitting, the hole in the pin has a 1/8" pipe thread. Take an appropriately sized grade 5 bolt, like a 1/2" x 10 tpi IIRC, put a grade 5 or 8 nut on it screwed way up high, grind off the original threads up about 1/2" from the end, then rethread the end of the bolt with a 1/8" pipe die. Put a big flat washer behind the nut, slip it over an appropriately sized socket (13/16" IIRC), screw the grade five bolt with above assembly into the grease zert hole, then put the torque to the nut against the washer and socket. Depending on how worn the pin is, it will fight you, and might need some heat and a BFH, but it will come out. Sure is easier than laying on your back making holes in your frame and swinging that BFH upside down. Stu

Edit - the bolt used is a 1/2" x 13 tpi grade 5. You also have to add threads up the shaft an inch or so to give yourself enough depth to clear the socket. Stu

OK, there have been a bunch of these threads lately and I used the advise on it a couple of weeks ago. But one thing bugged me. There has been a lot of talk about drilling a hole in the crossmember to provide access to the pin hole.
Is that just on the 48 to 52 models?
My 55 has a nice hole in the crossmember just for this purpose...

Attachment 230622

Well folks all done for today...No way I would have got it without the trusty air hammer; needed a smaller longer bit but it got it done. I also notched the cross member to provide access to the front hole. Quick Pic:
http://calnica.com/images/F1/done.jpg

Glad it worked out for you.

If I were you, I'd remove the spings first and then the shackles. You'd have to put the shackle in a vice now to remove the spring.

Not reusing the leafs installing monoleafs. Shackles are free....

Oh ya, one more thing...found that 2 or 3 of the leafs on one side were broke. Guess it was worth the effort....:)

Ahhh.... I see.

+1 on this method.

Shifting the springs around as the puller applies pressure will allow the steps worn on the pins to get thru the holes.

I've done four trucks using this method. The first was my flat fender B1PW126 Power Wagon. The Dodge service manual shows it done this way, and shows the factory shop tool specific to the task. Since finding one of them wasn't in the cards, or the budget, making one wasn't hard. Works same way on Fords. Stu

Attachment 230623
Attachment 230624