How to change glow plugs?
 

What is up w/ #3 glow plug? On my brother's and a buddy of ours and mine truck has had a code P06073 pulled on our trucks my an edge cts.
Will someone tell me how to replace the glowplug. I've researched it all day and found a pretty good bit of info on it. The thing is there's is some steps or info I'm not clear on. Do you reuse the valve cover gasket? There's mention of usingba crayon to mark a 15mm box in a corner of something and cutting it out. It was also said to split the wire harness w/ an utility knife. Sure yall here have some clearer instructions than these. I appreciate any pointers.

You don't pull the valve cover to change the gp's on these trucks. The gp's are external, and a real pain to get too. If you look on top of the motor there is a plug with a red tab on it by the valve covers. That's the gp harness. Follow that wire down under the ehaust manifold and you will find where it plugs into the gp's. To unplug the harness wrap a piece of wire (I think 12 gauge is what fits) in the offset of the plug and pull out. Be prepaired to replace the harness because they are brittle with the heat they take, and most of the time break. once you get the harness of all of them just remove them and replace with new ones. Put the harness back on and your done. The drivers side you can get to by removing the airbox, but the passenger side you will need to remove the fender well. Let me know if you need more help on this.

Your talking about removing fender well lining right?

Yes just the inner liner. It's not to bad to get off and on, just sucks doing it.

Does it just pull off? A couple yrs ago I thought my starter whent out. I took it out and that liner made it hell on me. Come to find out. The starter was aight. It was hell going back in too.
Last night when I was reading how to replace the glow plug I seen a removeual tool for the harness. Man $100. I'm glad you mentioned the piece of wire cause I forgot to ask about that.

I have never used that tool, but cheezit it says it's not worth it. They still break most of the time. He says to just use the wire trick too. As far as the liner goes I just pulled one off the other day. It's not too bad took probably 10-20 mins off and about the same to go back on. They are not fun by any means, but then again what is on a 6.0. Theres like 4-6 5/16 bolts and 4-6 1/4 bolts IIRC, and the three 10mm bolts that hold the vaccume box on then a few push lock thingy ma jigs (for lack of a better word). pull it out and just reverse the process to put back in.

Passenger wheel liner is not that bad - when you are putting it back in, it helps to have someone hold the vacuum box in place, and it is a bit of a pain to line it all up. I had it off at Christmas to put in a block heater cord. Definitely take the wheel off - I'm sure someone out there can do it with the wheel on, but that would definitely make it hell.

Thanks for the info about the tool - ebay has some for $35 (home made options, not the official Ford tool), but if they don't work anyway, why bother.

I have been getting a P06078 - replaced the GPCM without it going away, so I am now going to try to swap out the #8 glow plug. With my luck, it is probably the harness. Can I get to #8 from above too, or should I go in through the wheel well?

I did it with the wheel on. Would have deffently been easier with the wheel off, but for the 10-20 mins it took to get the liner off I don't really see a reason to take the wheel off.

The #8 shouldn't be a problem with the liner in. You can test at the harness before you unplug everything to verify the problem. unplug the harness up top (by the valve cover), and use a ohm meter to check ohms to ground on each pin. You should IIRC not have more than 2 ohm to ground. If you have 0 ohms or more than 2 ohm then that is your problem. What I do at that point is pull the harness off then pull the suspect GP and hold the threaded part of the GP on to ground and ohm the top to ground and see what I get. If the GP test good I replace the harness. If that makes any since. I'm sure there is away to test the harness by itself, but I don't know how. Plus, chances are when you unplug it from the GP's it will break, and need to be replaced anyways. I would always change all GP on the side you take the harness off of. That way if it didn't break you won't be trying to take it back off again, and the same goes for if it did break. You don't want to keep buying harnesses everytime to just change out one at a time.

Do you mind telling me how to ohm to ground? I thought ohming out was straight forward.

Many times a #8 glow plug code actually means the GPCM.

Edit - I will hit you w/ some rep points Scotty - when I can again!

No problem Mark. I'm always trying to get you but it always tell me to spead the love.
To ohm out the harness, unplug it at the valve cover, set your meter to ohms, put the red lead on one of the pins inside the harness (gp side), and put the black lead on the neg post of the battery. Like I said it should be 2 ohms or less. Do this for each pin in the connector (4 pins one for each gp).

Texans - Thanks for the great advice - I rep'ed ya. I was trying to avoid replacing the harness (cause I'm cheap) - I'll do it the right way!

Bismic - I already put a new GPCM in and it didn't work - that's the way it goes for me. I really won't be surprised if I replace the harness and all the driver's side glow plugs and still have that code. Truck runs and starts fine so I'm really not that concerned.

Thanks. I reped ya but it wouldn't let me comment so anyway thanks for the advice.

No problem that's what this place is for. So did you get it fixed?