Horsepower rating
 

Hi guys,

I've got a 1980 F100 with a 302. I just put in an eldelbrock performer RPM intake and a 600cfm holley in it. Once i get the money the exhaust is next. But what I've really been wondering is what kind of horsepower i'm making. I've been on wikipedia and it says something around 130, but i don't really believe that i'm only making around 145 with my modifications. My winter Toyota hilux makes around 145, and my Ford has much more kick to it when i put the hammer down. I know the 80 wasn't the best time for a 302, but i'm still wondering.

Also if you were me what would your next move be to get some extra horsepower out of the 302

Thanks alot guys

Without cam, heads and compression work, your base is the pathetic 130 and you aren't adding tremendously to it. Yes, I got smoked by a Toyota 4 cylinder 4x4 pu in a '78 with a 139 horse 302 in it.....

See how it is with duals. I like a balance tube and steel mufflers. No need to get a headache, and when you get it past 3000 rpms you get that V8 sound anyway.

Is this an original '80 motor? Have you done a compression test? A high-mile motor + go fast parts usually leads to something unpleasant, so don't over rev it.

Every single 302 ever made has the potential to make at least 250 hp.. you just gotta let it breath. First thing is to replace the COMPLETE exhaust system including the manifolds and the stock pellet cat... if it's still hanging around with anything from the aftermarket, these old motors were literally smothered to death with these tiny little whisper quiet exhaust systems. Then you have to swap the cam, you can change everything else on the motor including the heads but if you don't change the cam it'll never make any power worth talking about.. that's how small the stock cam is. With a carb you have tons of cam choices but even something fairly tame like the Comp cams 35-234-3 will release the beast.

I have a crack in one of my exhaust manifolds so they'll be gone shortly and replaced by some hedman headers paired with 3" duals.

But with a cam are new pistons a must? I don't know a whole lot about them

If you open this motor up at all, do a complete rebuild. Once you change the cam and valve springs and start running it up to 6000 rpms, the old bearings are going to find a reason to spit a rod out the side of the block.

When you do that, you get the pistons you want, heads etc.

New pistons (or modifying existing ones) are only required with fairly radical, high lift cams in which case deeper valve reliefs may be needed.

Speaking of letting them breath. I am wanting to replace my exhaust with duals. Do you have advice on selection? I want something with a low tone and only moderately loud.

3" duals are WAY too big for this little wheezer, a single 2.5" pipe is plenty so use 2.25" pipe for duals and weld on some big fat tips if that's what you're into.. though personally I don't see the point.

No.. I wouldn't suggest a cam that required other engine mods anyway.

Well.. that's a bit over the top. A cam change does not automatically make every motor into a screamer and the one I suggested certainly isn't with a powerband of 1000-5200rpm. I agree that revving the piss out of a well worn motor is like playing with dynomite.. you never know when it might just go off, but on the other hand these windsors are well built compared to some of the other crap that was available at the time(GM 305/350) so if it has good oil pressure there is no reason to think it won't handle a daily rip to 5000rpm.

Thanks alot Paul, the cam research has begun!

How are crane cams?

A cam change with a resonable street cam will not require any changes to the pistons. Only very highlift and long duration cams require deeper pistons notches or custom pistons.

Adding headers is good but don't go to big on the exhaust pipes! All of the Fox Mustangs with the HO302's got 2 1/4 inch exhaust and they did just fine. Since you going all new then go with 2 1/2 inch with a "H" or "X" pipe to ballance the system or if going with a single exhaust you could go with a 3 inch pipe.

A cam change will be a waste without at least bolting on a better set of heads than those boat anchors it's got now. It's got those huge 70 cc combustion chambers, at least bolt on a set of GT40's, that'll pick the comp ratio up a half point. Also check the block casting numbers to see what's down there. If it's got a D8VE casting, you've got a good-un. If it's the E0AE, you've got a dud that's not worth rebuilding. With the former, you could stoke it to a 347. If it's the latter, look for a351W to rebuild or a good running engine to transplant into it. All that aside, you may be only making 145 hp, but it's got twice the torque output of a Toyota.

On the cheap.... Cam & lifters 204 214 @ .050, Valve Springs, Timing Chain, Gaskets, 4V Performer RPM Intake, 600VS Holley, Long Tube headers.... as long as it's got good oil pressure you will be ok, run it. Some times these builds can snow ball into a bunch of money... just headers and intake will wake it up a lot..

I would upgrade the exhaust then start rebuilding a donor motor .


These 302's do well if they can move the air in and out , compression is a factor which usually requires looking into flat top pistons .

Rebuild a donor motor and sell your good used motor to recoup a few bucks .

When rebuilding the hobby motor I would pep up the compression and cam a LITTLE bit . It sounds like this is also your daily driver . Too many people read hot rod magazines and think they need to build the ultimate motor , which is not something practical for a daily driver . Sometimes it really does more harm than good .