Last minutes questions before ordering airbags
 

I've had my truck for about 1 month now and love it, but much like others have mentioned, I am getting quite a bit of rear sag when I have my gooseneck horse trailer hooked up. I am getting just a hair over 2 inches of sag.

It seems my options were to put in the 350 4-inch lift (incremental 2-inch over my existing 2-inch) or to go to airbags. Since the airbags would allow my rear height to remain as-is when not pulling the trailer, that seems to be the best option. Plus, the 350 lift kit was just cosmetic anyway since it was not changing how the rear springs functions.

Some final questions before I pull the trigger on an order of Firestone's today.

1. I have a 250 6.7L 4x4...so it seems I need #2535. Is this the same as W217602535?

2. I could not find a specification on the max lift these airbags will get. Will it cover my 2-inch sag issue?

3. I am not financially ready to include the wireless compressor so will go old-school for now...manually inflate/deflate. I could not find any pictures of any installs with the air lines brought to the back bumper for the manual approach. Anyone? Or am I the first to not have the compressor.

Watching Epic's video last week was the clincher for me. And I plan to install myself based on his video. Looking forward to it, but want to make sure I order the right stuff.

Thanks in advance!

On my last truck (06 Ram 2500) I put the manual inflation nozzles next to the license plate in the plastic and it worked great. I have a buddy that has an F250 and the guy that installed his airbags drilled 2 holes in the metal plate that has the 7-pin and 4-pin wiring and put the nozzles there. Pretty sharp looking and easy to get to...

My 2006 F350 had the air valves on either side of the license plate. I kept them at 16 psi which worked well for most of my loads. If I really loaded up the truck and GN, I sometimes bumped them to 30 psi.

Part #2535 is correct for '11 diesel.

The rated weight capacity is something crazy like 5000 pounds for each airbag, giving you a max of 10,000 pound capacity, well over the axle rating so keep this in mind.

The install instructions that come with the kit do not specify where to place your fill/deflate valves, totally up to you. I like the idea above, placing them on the trailer wiring plate, but you could go anywhere. Maybe up front to make it easier to pull up to your air compressor?

I typically run 10 psi unloaded, 20-50 psi when I have a bumper pull trailer, 60-80 when I have a fifth wheel trailer on. Whatever it takes to level you out. System has a max of 100 psi. If the bags have too much weight on them and you can't level your ride, then your axle is likely well overloaded. I run right at the max axle rating eith my fifth wheel camper and have no trouble with making my ride level and controlling the suspension so that it does not bottom out.

Air bags are super for making our trucks versatile and stable tow machines.

I got the Firestone bags and wireless compressor...I still teed the valves in and run to either side of the Lic plate... I was real disappointed when I dropped my 2600# fifth wheel pin in and the bed didnt drop at all !! still put 45 #s in for the ride !

Thanks everyone. Bags are ordered and hope to have in time for an install this weekend. I'll check the trailer plug idea out for mounting of the fill valves. That might be a slick location until I take the plunge on a compressor.

I installed them without the compressor, I put them next to the license plate also. I put them vertical one on top of the other instead of one on each side of the plate. Other then the cool factor it's allot of money. You are not changing the psi in them except when you hook up and unhook your trailer.

Ride Rite 2535 air bag question
 

I have a question.
On my previous air-bag set up (Firestone bags on 1999 F350 dually) I was able to set the bags at 5 lbs unloaded--the minimum. When loaded with the 5th wheel the pressure came up to 15 lbs--though I did not add any air. In that circumstance there was no need for an on-board air compressor. Perfect! The design of that bag set required the drilling--this might have been before the "no-drill" era.

(On my 2005 F350 dually I used the Timbren rubber springs, which I might install temporarily on the 2011 F350 dually. They worked well, but I suspect the air bags will be better.)

So, if I go to air bags, my question is: will I be able to do the same with the 2535 bags? (same basic truck, F350 2011 6.7 dually). That is, can I set it at about 5 lbs unloaded, which yielded 15 lbs loaded without adding air? Or, will I need to add air to support the 5th wheel hitch weight?

What air pressure have you and others used? What is your pressure unloaded, what is your pressure loaded, how many of you did or did not need to change the air pressure?

Thanks in advance for comments, information, and questions.

I installed a set of Firestone #2535's on my 2011 SD F250. They work just awesome for what I needed. I tow a 30' toy hauler a lot. With about 50 pounds of air in them my truck and trailer are level. There are 2 holes in a 'valance' lip right above the license plate holder in the rear of the truck that were perfect for the air bag air valves. If I can help just PM me. Rick

Thanks for the response.

If you have 50 lbs in while towing, what are the lbs of pressure when you unhooked and before you release air--if you do release air?

Or, if you have 50 lbs when towing, what is the unhooked lbs of pressure, and how much do you add--if any?

Thanks again

The more weight in the bed the higher the pressure will be in the bags. This is true up to a certain point. As the bags compress the air is compressed also, that is why you see a higher pressure without adding air. Adding air is to level out the ride and add stability.

I forgot to ask: when installing the 2535 bags, am I correct there is a 2-3 choices to pre-set the height before finishing the install? If that is correct, where do you and others set your height? If that is possible, do the directions give a good explanation?

Yes, I understand the compressing the bags by adding weight will bump the pressure up--even though no additional air was added.

What I am hoping to discover is that if I put in, say 5-10 lbs when unloaded, would that by chance be enough to keep the pickup level when towing?

With my earlier truck, 5+ did the job and that resulted in 15+ while towing without adding air.

So, if that is the case with a new set of bags, then perhaps I will not need to change pressure, or even consider an un-board pump, when going from unloaded to loaded.

Hope I described my question clearly.

Install the air bags, then hook up a loaded trailer then put air in both sides a little at a time till the truck sets level.

I put bags on my 2000 F250 and put 65 lbs in to get the rig level. I carried 10 lbs with the truck empty. Getting ready to tow the 5er I would again put 65 lbs in the bags. Always carried a 12 volt compressor to refill the bags when I left the campgrounds.

in my 05, i manually inflated/deflated the bags
in my 08, I put the wireless air compressor in, and pulled it out when I traded it in and installed it in my 2011.
my trailer isn't that heavy, but the bags make the ride quality much better and level out the truck regardless of how much wood or other stuff I put in the bed.
I normally run 10 lbs in the bags with nothing in the bed, and upwards of 50 lbs when I got my 5er hooked up.
I mounted the air compressor above the spare tire, that way it is kinda protected from the elements.
I never really minded the manual inflate/deflate because I do my tires when I'm pulling my 5er (increase pressure to 80 psi) and drop them back down when I'm done towing.
BUT, having the wireless air compressor is awesome and well worth the money.
good luck on the install, I've installed all 3 sets on my trucks and its pretty easy.