7.3 OIL PAN
 

2002 F-350 4X4 AUTO TRANS. CAN YOU REPLACE THE OIL PAN WITHOUT REMOVING THE ENGINE? THANKS

I don't think so. Plus the engine block should be upside down when letting the gasket maker cure else you will get leaks. At least that's what I have been told by several diesel techs. If yours is porous like my '94 plow trucks is, try JB Weld after draining the oil for a few days. The stuff works. Good luck.

Moved to the 1999 - 2003 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel forum.

The only way to do it without removing the engine is to cut out the crossmembers, install the new pan, and weld the crossmeembers back in.

Really not a good plan.

I came across a thread where the guy claimed he pulled the tranny, and basically disconnected the engine and tilted it enough to put a new pan in...

But really, it needs to be pulled. :-X16

My pan is getting bad, too. I am going to sand it down good and paint it this month.... hopefully that will hold it for a while. :-X18

Mine wasn't bad, just some patchy rust bubbling under the paint and after muiltable paintings I sanded it down real good and applied some Rust Bullet, 2 or 3 coats and you'll be good. Whatever rust is still on there the R-B compounds dehydrates the moisture in the rust and metal and seals it. 10 year waranty to boot. Check them out, their a sponsor above..

My pan is still in good condition. Is there anything I can/should do to make it last? Maybe paint it with rust-proof paint?

there's a guy in MA that epoxy's a fiberglass cover on it
YouTube - ‪7.3 Ford Rusted Oil Pan Repair Kit (1of 2)‬‏

The best thing is to live in an area where rust is not an issue :D...next best thing is to follow big poppa's suggestion on using Rust Bullet.

That is a great pan fix.

I would think putting a "cover" over the oil pan would be like putting a plastic bedliner in a rusty bed....

just sayin...

if you used 10 gallons of epoxy after spending 2 days cleaning all the rust off the bed it would be pretty much the same thing.

I see no issue with repairing a pan in this manner. The pan rusts out because it was drawn thin in the stamping process. If I had a soft spot in the bed because there was thin steel used I wouldn't hesitate to slather it up with fiberglass and call it a day, I doubt I would replace it with another bed that has the same defect from the factory.

Cheaping out on the bed is one thing, letting rust flakes get into your oil is another...I'm all for a quick cheap fix as long as it doesn't compromise anything. I am skeptical about the cover for the oil pan, I think if its done early enough its all well and good, but if you do it when your oil pan is falling apart you might be asking for trouble.

cheaping out? if the design was faulty ( as is the oil pan) from the get go where is the cheaping out? Because you fixed it better than stock for less than stock replacement does than make it less desirable or more?

as to the rust flakes in the oil....they rust from the outside in, I have yet to pull the pan off any running engine and see rust underneath the oil IN the pan.

Hence why I said its all good if its done early enough.
Cheaping out meaning cheaper than getting a new pan and POR15'ing it
Sorry for not explaining myself thoroughly enough

I would agree with that, if it is absolute swiss cheese with no good metal left to bond too a new pan is a must, but most of the time there are a one or two small spots that are just starting to weep.

ya know the one thing that would worry me about repairing my pan with the diaper would be engine oil temps. A lot of cooling occurs at the pan. I would make sure I had an EOT gauge.