How To: Power Steering Pump Replacement
 

Ok I don't blame a couple of you newbies for having me write this up and add pics b/c the Haynes manual and PSP tool directing F***ing suck!

That being said remember to buy ATF Type F because that is what the OEM style uses for fluid. NOT power steering fluid. I know throws me for a loop to but that is probably the reason some of you are getting whining pumps and brown fluid... Pump seeps and someone adds power steering fluid when your not supposed to.'

Anyway, there is a Saginaw Pump that I would recommend as a replacement instead of the OEM style but I am replacing a OEM style in the pics. The saginaw style is a direct replacement and is the same steps except adding a new/different high pressure line. The benefits others have seen with the saginaw are: no leaks and no pump whinning. I also explain/show how to flush your pump and give you the part numbers for a rebuild kit that runs $10-$12 if you can't afford a new PSP. I might do a "how to" thread on rebuilding a PSP if there is enough interest.

If interesed in the Saginaw Pump: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...ering-fix.html
Saginaw Pump: 20-6244
Pressure Line: Get one from a 79 F250
If you don't know if a saginaw/Cardone PSP will fit your truck or car check here: http://www.mypartsgarage.com/cardone...tured-136.html

1.) pull the crap off that is in the way: air intake, hoses, top radiator fan guard. make sure to hook your coolant reservoir hose back up to the radiator after pulling the top fan guard (#3 in pic) or it will drip the whole time your working on the PSP.
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2.) make a drip pan to catch the PSP's fluid when you unhook the lines. Here's mine... (you'll see it being used in step #4)
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3.) Remove the PSP's Pulley: you'll need the pulley removal tool. Picture the pulley on the truck (i'm just showing the tool assembly which is easier with the pulley off)
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To remove hold the box end wrench and tighten bolt with socket until the pulley pops off. You'll need to exert some grunt on this part...
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Kinda looks like this on the truck... you can remove the coolant hose if you want but i worked around it in order to save myself another fluid mess.
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4.) Disconnect Hoses: Take off low pressure and high pressure hoses. I used a 15/16in wrench for the high pressure and a slotted screw driver for the hose clamp on the low pressure line. Also look in the background of the picture; you'll see the pan from step 2 and also the PSP fluid is brown due to someone putting powersteering fluid in when the pump was already (and correctly) filled with ATF type F (IE red+lite brown=drk brwn). I am sure some of you are seeing this in your own trucks and should be doing a power steering flush. Doing a flush and adding some Barrs or Lucas will help stop pump whinning but if you have a leak I would replace or rebuild it (FYI rebuild kit: GATES Part #350450).
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5.) Swap Pumps: unbolt the old and bolt in the new one!
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Now when you realize that the old line doesn't connect to the new pump.. don't sweat it... I did it this way for a reason...
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The reason was to show you that you need to take the shorter fitting off and not the 15/16in one that I did. Make sure to replace that O-ring the arrow points to. there should be a new one in the PSP box. You'll notice this is the new pump and i cleaned the PSP bracket really well so if it leaks I'll know where the leak is coming from. Clean the hoses and steering box too. It will help if you have a leak later...
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6.)Hook Up High pressire line only: Ok all is well again. Hook up the high pressure line and notice that the low pressure is running to a 2L bottle to help flush old crap out...
http://i689.photobucket.com/albums/v...p/P1020318.jpg

7.) Put the pulley back on: use the other tool in the kit and basically revers the process to push the pulley back on. (picture is out of truck only to show assembly- you will have to do this in the truck!) A quick not is that you may have to run the assembly tools "push plate" on and off the install bolt to straighten the threads (this is b/c some previous jackarse didn't screw the bolt into the pump all the way) DON'T be the J.A. and make sure you get the bolt in all the way before you start tightening the push plate to install the pulley. You'll need to look at the toll and make sure the install bolt isn't stripped when you pick the tool up! Also you may have to back off the push plate and tighten the bolt into the pump again if you start to loosen it. Push pulley back on until it matches the other pulley's alignment.
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8.) Put the belt back on. Honestly if you need a pic of this...?!?!? You might need to reinstall the belt in order to hold the pulley still so you can remove the pulley install bolt and push plate.

9.) flush the system: Put the low pressure line in a 2L bottle and start your truck this will activate the pump immediatly so turn the wheel ASAP after start up (front wheels off ground). This will flush all the old crap out of the steering box and PSP. You may need 2-3 qts of ATF Type F to get the flush and fill done.
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10.) Hook low pressure line back up: after hooking the low pressure line back up you'll need to get the air out. refill the PSP and start your truck again turning the steering wheel all the way to the left and right a couple times checking your fluid level inbetween. make sure you are topped off with ATF in the pump to the COLD LINE!!!! this is important because if you over fill you can blow the lid off the pump or shoot it all over the under side of your hood and generally make a huge mess!

11.) Go Drink a beer if you haven't been doing so the whole time b/c your done as long as you like the results upon your test drive.

Very nice How-To! Rep. points to your sir.

The best part is the part where you drink beer. I think thats why i get excited about workin on my truck, its just an excuse to drink beer

Thanks! I get asked by some of the newbies how to do stuff so much that I have started to do "How To" threads and then book marked them in my browser so I can retrieve the link when we get asked again later... That way I can post, "Check this thread out, it will tell you everything you need to know." Personally I think the Moderator needs to be adding these types of posts to the "locked READ FIRST thread..." The guys in the 80-86 thread have theirs figured out and working like that!

Anyway I hope this thread is helpful for others now and later on... I will try to get the saginaw pump part number and add it to the main post so newbies will find that easy to do as well. Does anyone know the part number for the saginaw high pressure line that you have to replace?

Very nice write up my good sir! Throws me for a loop Ford uses ATF Type F, but hey, whatever works i suppose..

+rep.

I know... I'll actually admit I didn't know that until a couple years ago when the guy at the parts store told me that's what the computer said to use when I was buying another reman'd PSP for a buddy's truck. Since then I usually do a flush and put some barrs or lucas in it to keep the whinning down. If I was made of money I would just have a couple Saginaw's from A1 sitting on the shelf waiting for their new home!

Thanks for the reps guys!

So, from my understanding, my 92' uses ATF instead of true Powersteering Fluid? Because mine sounds like a bag of cats was thrown under the truck when I turn....If so, I'll DEFINANTLY be doing a flush.....

Also, reps man....The pics are a BIG help...

Yeah the saginaw is supposed to eliminate the "bag of cats" sound from the truck... But if you want to try the $20 fix first you should flush with "ATF Type F" and if that doesn't solve the problem use some Lucas Power Steering Treatment (or Barr's). Remember you'll have to drain some of the ATF first and then refill with the Lucas to keep the level right at the cold line!

Yeah....Hmmm....I know about the drain to add deal....

But idk...Thats another thig for another day....

Yeah... Thumper was noisey and squeaky really bad and when that was quieted by new shocks and suspension bushings all the way around, the PSP noise caught my attention so I just replaced it last wednesday. Next, I need to tear my G3 alternator back out and put the bigger pulley back on it b/c the smaller G2 pulley that I swaped onto it makes the belt squeal for 1-2 seconds everytime I start the engine. Problem is once I do that I'll have to measure for and buy a new belt...

Great writeup Nathan.
Thanks for doing this for everyone else.

I would Rep you if they would allow me. :o

No worries... You can hit me up next time! :-X22

Great writeup. The only thing I'd add is that when turning the steering wheel side to side to bleed the air out of the system, you really ought to have the front tires off the ground (front of the vehicle up on jackstands) to reduce the strain on the pump, especially if you're running larger tires.

hmmmm???? :D

Haha. Apparently "Hooked on Phonics" did NOT work for me. I totally missed that. :)

well just sound it out and don't skim so fast... LOL... no worries!

could the fact that ford uses ATF instead of PSF be why when i turn i sometimes feel like there is a loss of steering momentarily and occasionally while driving straight? by the way thanks for the post, will be useful if i do end up having to replace/flush my PSP.

Could be a slipping belt or pump cavitation.
The recommended ATF is the correct viscosity and works with the seals in the system.

2000 Ford Excursion, changed power steering box but still have no power steering unless raving the truck up. Any suggestions. The fluid is filled. I checked the system for flow and that's fine. No restrictions, no clasped hoses. That's where I'm at. What should I try next?

I did away with the power steering on my 89 F-150 6 Cyl. Put a manual steering gear box in the place of. Hydraulic power steering is a thing of the past. It was old when it was new, cause of all the problems that went with hydraulic, and the weight too. Now there's electronic power steering.

You changed the steering box or the pump?

PS: you might try the Ford Excursion forum. The users there would have better ideas for you... My knowledge of Ford Trucks is stuck back in 1991 and earlier.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum29/

Not a bad idea if you want to spend $300+... From what I've read you can delete the PSP but you have to replace it with a electric motor to drive the new EPS. On old trucks like ours your going to need a 95-130amp alternator upgrade to drive it and recharge the battery after the extra drain. (newbies: A common 2G-to-3G swap with a Ford Taurus alternator is the prevalant option for upgrading alternators) Plus on the newer cars with EPS, the electric motor is mounted on the steering column itself...

Is there a bolt on option for our trucks? what is the amp draw from the electric motor? IF you have on your truck LET'S SEE PICS!

I'm all up for give FTE users/readers all the options!

Electric Power Steering

Don't have electronic power steering. Was just saying that hydraulic power steering was old when it was new. I put a manual steering gear box on. The motor just turns a Taurus alternator and water pump ( minus the clutch fan ). Electric fan replaces that ancient clutch fan.

Ahhhh, Now I see.

(from the Wiki)

"An engine or motor is a machine designed to convert energy into useful mechanical motion.

Devices converting heat energy into motion are referred to as engines, which come in many types. A common type is a heat engine such as an internal combustion engine which typically burns a fuel with air and uses the hot gases for generating power.

Another common type of motor is the electric motor. This takes electrical energy and generates mechanical motion via varying electromagnetic fields."

Do I detect a hint of sarcasm about the links I used??? I was just trying to post a few links that would help newbies see the difference. I'll admit, I didn't read the Elect Power Steering link... I was just using it for a visual.

Doesn't a manual steering box make steering the vehicle harder? My mom used to have a Pontiac Fiero that had a manual steering box and that thing was kind of a b**ch to turn...

PS: you could technically get rid of everything except the alternator... If you really wanted to see how much drag the accessories put on the motor you could get a elec fan, elec PSP, elec water pump, and elect AC compressor/motor.

No sarcasm.

When I think of a "motor" I think electric, or something else where power is directly applied to it.
I refer to an (internal combustion) "engine" when speaking of what provides motive force to our trucks.
Fuel is consumed to create heat that provides the mechanical motion.

xxshine stated his "motor" only turns the alternator and water pump.
I can see how that could be misconstrued.

10-4.......

thanks
 

thank you from a new ford owner, just bought a 93 xl 150 2 weeks ago, and had a bad whine start saturday. already replaced the pump thanks to this info.

Very good write up thanks now i can start my project up this weekend and hopefully finish it sunday

OK - so I have a 1966 F-250 in which the PO installed a nice 1988 block 460. We have the same PS pump and bracket. We need to get the PS pump off the bracket. We now see how to do that - THANKS! So now, how do you get the pulley back on? Somehow reverse the puller? Maybe this is a completely stupid question, but humor me :)

The end of the shaft should be threaded.
You can pull it on with a long bolt, using a nut and washer.

OK, that was a stupid question! Thanks

Need help.
 

I'm having issues getting my pulley back into place.. Any tips ?? Its quite aggravating. :-arrgh

Do you have the special tool along with the instructions? The pulley can be quite hard to pull on. What trouble are you having?

I do have the special tool, in fact i was able to take it off and the pump i changed the pump (power steering) and now im trying to get the pulley back on but it wont go back into place, im having trouble with it..

I assume you are using the tool to push the pulley back on? Does it just go hard? Can't get the pulley started on? or what?

im having difficulty getting it started.

Maybe take a file and slightly taper the edge of the pump shaft and /or slightly taper the inside edge of the pulley.

Also lubricate between the surfaces so the pulley will pull on easier once you get it started. It will probably pull on hard after you get it started.

Honestly thats a great idea. Ill do that tomorrow when the sun comes up thanks for the help!! If it works ill reply on the success if not ill ask for more tips depending on how it goes.

Saginaw steering pumps did some with different shaft diameters (3/4" & 5/8" IIRC)
It is a press fit so expect it to be tight, but not 1/8" tight.
You do have a pump with the right shaft?

Okay, pulley is on.. Is it suppose to go all the way down the pump? Or is there suppose to be a little room in between? (about a half inch)

Is it suppose to look like picture 7? but the gap closed a little more? (to better sum it up)