Question about raising the rear end
 

Quick Question, any info would help, My 04 F250 Crewcab 4X4, I installed a Pro Comp 2.5" leveling kit on the front (new leaf springs), with shocks & U-bolts, and it looks great but my rear end sits about .5 to 1" lower now, it has the camper package installed, would it be best to swap out the rear 1-7/8 rear blocks with 2.5" or an add a leaf, I do pull a camper, and was thinking rear air bags, after reading the forums it seems i could go either way, any experience on this and what would be the best for handling...Many Thanks..

Do you want the ride stiffer, stay the same, or get more compliant?

It can stay the same, never had an issue, but when i hook up the camper its going to drop an extra 1-2".

swap out the F250 blocks for F350 blocks..

easy 2" lift... course you'll need longer shocks and ubolts to.

Thank-You both for the fast reply's, the F350 blocks would that be the 04 stock F350 blocks?

Do you still have the same "stock" rear springs? If so, with towing, the springs "settle" Kinda like a house. Spring steel has an original new hieght. but when installed and used, they settle. I would either add a leaf (but stiffer ride) or air bags would be best. best ride and could adjust to your needs while towing. I just had installed Firestone Rear leveling system with a larger pump and a 3 gal tank to opperate pnuematic tools.

Yup, if you go back in my posts to around 05~06 you will find a thread where I did the same to my 05 F250. A very easy mod to do. With mine being a crewcab I also had to lower my intermediate mount for the two piece drive shaft to correct the angle after changing the blocks. It can be done with just shims or as I did. I ordered the mount for a F350 so I wouldn't need as much of a shim.

Here is one of the threads for you:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...2004-f250.html

I did the install not long ago on my 2004. I used the 2.7" mini leaf pack up front and a 1" block in the rear. I didnt have to change the U bolts in the rear as it fit perfectly.

https://www.fototime.com/%7BCF2FD431...ict/truck4.jpg

Thanks for all the reply's, the front leafs were completely changed out from the original 2 leafs to the Pro Comp 5 pack, the rear is stock, haven't touched it yet. I'm more leaning to the F350 blocks & shim or the Air Bags, I already have the air tank and compressor mounted in the truck from my last vehicle, i to use it for tools and filling the tire's. If I only go with the air bags and raise it the 1" I need for the leveling look will i still need to shim the 2-piece drive shaft mount? I don't plan on going any higher then it being level & when the camper is hooked I can adjust it back to being level.

IF you want to keep the empty ride the same, you need to use a lift technique that does not add spring rate. On an SD, that means a taller block. The F350 would be perfect.

If you add lift using add-a-leafs or airbags, you will be adding spring rate, making the ride firmer.

With airbags, you need to keep at least a few psi in them at all times. That means the truck rides stiffer all the time. By slipping one leaf out of the spring pack, it will balance out the rate. Depending on air pressure, you can achieve softer, firmer, or identical to stock spring rates.

I'd suggest swapping in the F350 blocks and try it out.

After years of playing, I found an exceptional setup. I carry wildly varying loads and hate harsh riding trucks....
- F350 blocks
- Pulled the 3rd leaf out of stock spring pack
- Firestone airbags with in cab remote control
- Rancho RS9000XL shocks with MyRide remote

With the remote controls, takes just a few seconds to optimize the ride no matter what I'm doing. Many say overkill, I say why compromise?

With this setup, 0 psi in bags results in bed sitting a couple inches lower than stock. Squats right down.... Perfect for loading the truck! Or slipping ball under trailer hitch with minimal cranking on tongue jack. Or to lower the nose of trailer if not unhitching truck for the night.
10 psi and shocks at 0 with no load results in slightly lower than stock, but quite notably better ride than stock.
20 psi and shocks at 3 or 4 is pretty close to stock
50 psi and shocks around 5 is excellent for towing. Stock ride height (headlights perfectly aimed!) and excellent road handling.
80 psi and shock at 7 is perfect when towing and a HEAVY load in the bed.
100 psi gets the rear end up pretty high regardless of load. Great when checking diff oil... Or to raise nose of trailer if not unhitching for the night.

Thanks everyone so much, I will go with the F350 blocks, and possible air bags in the near future, My next question is, where do I find the F350 blocks? if i have been reading correctly the blocks I need are the 2004 F350 4x4 crew-cab blocks part #F81Z5598-DA but when i do a search for them it takes me back to different forums, does any one have a link to buy them? again many thanks to all.

I bought mine right from Ford. Here are two pictures I found of the carrier support block I also installed and the 1/4" steel shim I made that was installed with the bracket to get the proper angle on the driveshaft to prevent vibration.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...id=131307&.jpg
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...id=131306&.jpg

With the blocks from the F350 you should not need new shocks because the same shocks are used for both F250 and F350.

On my 05 the factory shocks were slightly longer on the rears. Not enough to make a difference in my opinion. The dealer had some F350 rear shocks they took off a truck they lifted so I picked up the 350 shocks for a song and a dance and put them on. I don't think it is needed though.