Installing/Operating Manual Choke
 

I have installed a Manual choke on my Carter YF, on my 300, which is in a 75 F100. I've never used a manual choke on a vehicle before. I knew enough to install it so the plate is closed when the dash plunger is out, and to close the choke for cold starts, then open it as the engine warms. But my problem is this: if I accelerate, the vacuum pulls the choke plate so the engine starts stalling, etc. Am I missing something? What am I supposed to have done except hook the choke cable to the mechanism? Would the fast idle linkage rod, which is not on there now, solve this problem?

Are you sure it's opening all the way? When you pull the choke you should have it adjusted so that it doesn't completely close. There should be a gap of about the size of a pencil or so. If it's closing completely then it's likely not opening all the way and can flop around easily with a little vacuum.

when i installed mine i had all kinds of issues until i eliminated the fast idle linkage so im sure thats not ur problem. it took me some tweakin until it got right. also had to get rid of the stock air cleaner.

Thanks. I ran it again this evening and I'm starting to think my problem is that I'm not getting enough fuel, so I have to keep the choke closed a little to keep it running. It also runs a little rough no matter how I set the idle, like there's a hestitation over and over, and if I take it for a spin it plucks and bucks when I accelerate. I'm pretty sure it's not a line blockage as I've replaced the old line because it was pretty rusty, and it did it before and after that, and same for the filter. I'm wondering if the culprit is the pump.

just fix one EASY thing at a time. If you know your choke is not operating correctly. Fix it. if it is working correctly, or always was, then move on. No sense in jumping around not fixing issues you spot.

Excellent advice, reps sent.

Thanks. Good advice. The choke is adjusted so that it stays open the required small gap when closed. As the engine heats up, I can gradually open it, so I think I'm OK there. It's actually a fairly new fuel pump as the old one had crud in it from before I replaced the lines and tank. But that doesn't mean it's not faulty. I've also think I've been having some fuel delivery issues since I put a tank under the bed in the rear because the old in-cab one was very rusty inside (thus the crud in the old lines and pump). Sometimes it seems like the line's pickup is in fuel but it won't pump but them when I top the tank off (with just a couple gallons or so), it pumps. Sometimes I wonder if the relocated tank is contributing to my troubles. By the way, I spotted an in-cab that will fit the truck at the scrapyard. Did a quick check and seems fairly clean inside. Some people say not to have a tank in the cab and others say it's no problem. I don't smoke and no else ever does in the truck. I'd kind of like to have the original set-up. What do you think of in-cab vs. under-bed tanks?

To address your fuel delivery worry/issue, the simplest and cheapest thing i can think of is one of those clear in-line fuel filters that you can put in front of the carbureator to check if its getting adequate fuel. Just a couple bucks for the filter,some pennies for the hose clamps, a knife, and 15 minutes later you have a no **** answer to whether youre getting fuel and what it looks like.

Edit** forgot your other question. From what ive read, impacts hard enough to bust an in-cab tank and start a fire are hard enough that the driver of the truck wouldnt care because you would be dead. Use the search function to look up more debates on this.

On another note...

Dudebro,

You are worse than me. Slow down and breathe.
Do you NEED this truck on the road? is it your primary form of transportation?


If its not, why install the tank in the rear if its not what you want?

What i do with these vehicles and other expensive stuff is make a list of options and wants in a pro/con format and try to objectively list the stuff out so i can see if my wild dreams even make any sense considering things like my time+budget constraints and what i will use it for. It has really paid off in the end, because it forces me to think and approach these money pit hobbies I have with a somewhat level head.

I appreciate this advice...I installed a manual choke on mine last year and it didn't seem to do much or killed my engine. Guess it's because I had it closing completely (oops). Looks like I need to adjust it! Thanks!

Not sure where Canyon is, but when I lived in SA, TX - I just wired my choke open. It only got in the teens 1-2 times a year and the 302 I had would fire right up with it wired open...just feathered the throttle a little then all was good.

LongTravelHighboy,
You're right. This is a project truck and whether it's on the road tomorrow or in 3 months time is not a big deal. Just get a little fixated on a problem sometimes and can't let it go. But reckon I'll cool my heels for a while, and maybe take a leisurely trip to the junkyard on saturday to see if that tank is still there. Thanks again.

RE: "From what ive read, impacts hard enough to bust an in-cab tank and start a fire are hard enough that the driver of the truck wouldnt care because you would be dead. Use the search function to look up more debates on this."

... this echoes a lot of what I've aready read on this. The way I see it a fella could put a tank under the bed in the rear, have it blow getting plowed from behind, and wish he'd put it be behind the seat. Who knows?

I dont think there is a right answer for tank placement to be honest. Youre carrying 10-30 gallons of highly volatile fluid and some other not so nice stuff with ya no matter where it is on the truck.

On the other stuff, youre welcome. It really does help to write the stuff (goals/end state) for the truck down. Besides, if ya keep the truck long enough, youll get to build it a couple times and maybe a couple different ways!