Rust Bullet
 

I'm newer to the forum but have been doing resto work for about 30 years. I've used everything from POR to catalyzed urethane to tractor/implement paint on frames and associated parts but always looking for improvement. On my 79 F-150 resto, I decided on trying out the Rust Bullet coating line on the frame and parts. and I thought I would share results as I did this. I know that there's lots of choices out there, this is not meant as the greatest thing since sliced bread, only as my 2cents on the product.

I'm using Rust Bullet Automotive formula as a base coating, followed by Rust Bullet Blackshell as a gloss black topcoat for stuff I want black. There's some other parts that I want dark blue, for those I will topcoat the RB with Eastwood dark blue engine paint.

All parts were lightly sandblasted with Black Diamond media (fine) to clean surface but not white metal. I used oven cleaner on the frame for general gunk removal, followed by pressure blaster, process was repeated, then followed by a wire brush cleaning, and a session with general degreaser/soap, pressure blaster and allowed to dry thoroughly. I could have blasted the frame but it wasn't really needed. Sometimes you'd be surprised at what a good job a cleaner/pressure blaster can do.

I used 2 qts of RB Automotive on all parts in the pics, sprayed with HVLP gun (2 coats). Very pleased with the results. The RB really "soaked" into the metal and gave a very hard finish even within the initial 24 hr cure. As a sidenote, I had also painted the rear spring shackles but realized that I hadn't removed the bushings. For me, easy way to remove bushings was to burn off the rubber part, remove the center tube and split/remove the bushing case. I was very surprised to see that the RB did not bubble and burn off from the heat/flames, just discolored.

Here are some pics, you will see that the RB Automotive gives a silver gray finish. Topcoat is only needed if you prefer a color finish. I will post up pics of the finished parts later. So far, I really like this stuff.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com:80/VOL.../396081834.jpg
http://pic20.picturetrail.com:80/VOL.../396095289.jpg
http://pic20.picturetrail.com:80/VOL.../396081838.jpg
http://pic20.picturetrail.com:80/VOL.../396081833.jpg

Looks great. Rust Bullet seems to hold up very well. I used a different product on mine called chassis saver, but my brother used rust bullet on his mud truck chassis and after a year of racing in the mud and power washing, his paint looks just like he did it yesterday. I was impressed.

I used chassis saver on my 57 Chevy and it's held up well. That's a good real-world testimony on rust bullet after being in hard use for a while, thanks.

I thought it might be of help to update this post with some more observations as I went along.

I've almost got all the chassis stuff painted so I can start getting the rolling frame back together again. As mentioned I used the Rust Bullet automotive coating as my initial primer even tho it really doesn't have to be topcoated. However I wanted a blend of gloss black and dark ford blue on parts so I went with Rust Bullet Backshell for the black and Eastwood engine paint for the blue stuff.

Rust Bullet automotive (silver) is very good, gives a tough finish that seems to soak into the metal and aside from grease removal you don't need a perfect surface.

Blackshell I'm ok with in terms of the final coating (I used the recommended activator as well and I think that's a good idea). My gripe - for a black color it takes a lot to give a nice rich finish. It took 2.5 qts of silver to do the frame and related chassis parts which was very efficient. Blackshell took about 5+ qts, about double. I've sprayed paints/vehicles for years and have a good compressor, filters, and a wide selection of guns and tips so I can say that the application was correct, it just took more than I liked. Its also susceptible to overspray because it tends to start setting up quick, you have keep your parts apart. The final cured finish looks nice and doesn't chip very easily so at least that's good. Also keep in mind that this is a "wet spray" product meaning it will make a sticky mess where you spray, you will track it everywhere. I wear a paint suit and gloves to spray.

Final stuff to paint will use the Eastwood engine paint over the silver rust bullet. I'll post some observations on that.

I used an HVLP gun with a 1.8 tip and about 40psi at the gun to spray. The RB silver is pretty thick, the Blackshell was noticeably thinner and needed a bit less air pressure. Cleans up with xylene or xylol. I did not thin either one, they were sprayed out of the can after thorough mixing.

Some random pics.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com:80/VOL.../396312935.jpg
http://pic20.picturetrail.com:80/VOL.../396235030.jpg
http://pic20.picturetrail.com:80/VOL.../396235032.jpg

looks good

Continuing this thread :) with a few more comments....

I've got all the chassis parts finished, looking forward to some re-assembly.

I found that I could add 2-4 oz of PPG Shopline urethane reducer to the Rust Bullet Blackshell along with their recommended activator. Seemed to make it flow out a bit better and I got better coverage as well. I know RB doesn't recommend any type of reducer, etc with their stuff so that they can ensure a good final product, but I was ok with trying just a bit of the reducer and its been fine.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com:80/VOL.../396312935.jpg
http://pic20.picturetrail.com:80/VOL.../396418444.jpg

I also applied the Eastwood engine enamel (I used their recommended accelerator as well). Shade of blue is exactly what I wanted. As far as durability of course time will tell but the initial setup and cure-out has been very good. A few of the blue parts:
http://pic20.picturetrail.com:80/VOL.../396418448.jpg

I'm using a couple of cheepie HF guns with a 1.4 tip and they have worked great. The body color (base/clear) will be a better quality gun, but I've had good success with the HF guns for heavier bodied primers/paints.

Hardware I get new Grade 8 from McMaster-Carr or for the bigger bolts in decent shape I sandblast and re-coat them. Can't stand to install new parts with crappy old hardware.

My last VW Bug the floor plans were really rusted. After some good prep, and a couple of coats of RB I was done.

I left the floor pans un-covered for about a year, and had no really noticible wear from daily driving. To me that was just amazing becouse of the rocks that my boots always tracked in.

Looking good, will be going the Rust Bullet route shortly myself.

Any updates?

Or, other long-term reports of RB, CS, or... use?

I will be painting my frame this sumer.

Roy

Heya Roy, he (Steel Toy) hasn't been logged on here since 2 years ago today. If you go with the RB, I'd sure like to hear what you think of it.
Mel

Oops.

I have some tests going based on Chassis Saver...but, I will paint my frame when the tests are only about a year old, and I expect the tests to show nothing-of-interest after that short a time.

Roy

Over in a Vintage VW forum there is a “Rust Prevention Testing” thread that ran for nearly 3 YEARs! They used the products pictured. I have the web address if anyone would like for me to post it.

Yes, please.

FWIW:

1. Rust Bullet has some nice-looking test data on their web site.

https://www.rustbullet.com/testing/main-menu




2. There is a guy reviewing on Amazon which has 7 years going on a frame paint job with Chassis Saver.

Thanks. That's quite a thread.