D50 Axle shaft U-joints/seals/fluid (PICS)
 

Ok, couldn't let the weather get away without doing something. Since the snow it seemed my front end was "binding" at far less than a lock to lock turn on some real slippery stuff, SO since the front axle has only had unit bearings and ball joints since new, I decided to replace the outer U-joints, all the seals, R&R the diff and replace the OEM gear oil.

12 yrs old, ~240 mi and here are some pictures for your enjoyment.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...h_DSC_0029.jpg http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...h_DSC_0030.jpg http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...h_DSC_0031.jpg http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...h_DSC_0035.jpg http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...h_DSC_0037.jpg
Here are some shots of the axle tubes showing the inner seals. These seals appear to be in GREAT shape, and will not be replaced during this PM.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...h_DSC_0068.jpg http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...h_DSC_0070.jpg http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...h_DSC_0072.jpg http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...h_DSC_0079.jpg http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...h_DSC_0076.jpg http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...h_DSC_0082.jpg
Here is some shots of the D/S axle assembly. Notice the Mobil-1 wheel bearing grease that appears to be doing it's job on that stub race. (It's the pink looking grease) These stubs are OEM, and you can see there is some wear on that race, but still serviceable.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...h_DSC_0059.jpg http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...h_DSC_0065.jpg http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...h_DSC_0066.jpg http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...h_DSC_0064.jpg
Well I was happy and dismayed when I saw how good that gear oil looked! That stuff is OLD. It didn't even smell bad. No discernible metal shavings in the housing.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...h_DSC_0088.jpg http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...h_DSC_0084.jpg http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...h_DSC_0085.jpg
And of course, how can anything get fixed without something gettin broke. So as it stands it was U-joints 1, my vise ZERO! Should have used the Blue wrench on these babies. (as Jason was quick to point out) Some interesting notes. These U-joints certainly were used, but still serviceable. Of the two joints, only two of the cups were "dry", none of the seals had failed, no rust or contamination of any type was in any of the cups. Probably had a couple more years :( I purchased some local convenient replacements that looked CHEAP in comparison to what I was removing, so after the I destroyed one of the new joints installing it, I decided to stop, order some Spicers, and be done with it.

More to follow. I'm treating the axles with a rust converter (not POR-15) and will track it's results as well as photos. :cool:

that is a dead vise. maybe it will work out. good write up.

thanks
 

Thanks for posting that up, the axle fluids are the last 2 I have to do on my truck, and I am a few years newer, and 100k miles less on them.

Sorry to hear about the vise, that looks like a good old one that wasn't cast in China even.....

I was just asking Andrew about you the other day. I wasn't sure if you were still on here anymore....Anywho, I changed all my driveline fluids back in Dec and boy am I glad I did. They were definitely due. Looks like you're making good progress. You'll be glad you ordered the Spicer u-joints. I had a spicer fail miserably on another vehicle but it luckily stayed together enough to where I didn't lose the driveshaft on the highway. Two caps was missing pieces, two stubs was ground down to about half it's original size, and the bearings were gone with a little dust left. It was one tough sonvab***h haha. I don't think it would have worked out the same way if I had a cheapo one installed. Anyways, good luck on the rest of your maintenance

Nice pics and writeup. I'm assuming this was the grease thru the good ole ABS hole method?? If it was that procedure it makes me feel real good knowing that grease is going and staying where its supposed to be.. nice...

Well Mike, I'd love to say the speed sensor port was how I greased these bearings, but I didn't find out about that option until a few years back. I'd R&R the bearing, clean the race and bearing, and pack by hand!

My truck didn't have 4WABS cause it was an E99, but I've upgraded to 99.5, so next unit bearing replacement, I'll order two with tone rings and may fab up a grease nipple to occupy that hole. }>

Im working on my front axle and at the point off how much C-4 does it take to get the axles out of the out of the spindel. This is the first time I have had to replace the ball joints the truck has 67k and is a 2002 7.3. Help would be a appreicated.

:-X10 I'm guessing you have the unit bearing (wheel bearing) off and are now looking at the stub with the black rubber seal around it. That big seal is what's causing you grief. You'll see it in my pics above still attached to the axle stubs and it's a triple seal. I use a pry bar inboard of the knuckle between the part of the axle that's in the tube, and the lip of the tube. You'll have to work at it for a bit, but you'll slowly make progress. Also spraying some PB blaster in the knuckle around that seal wouldn't hurt. Good luck.

Its great that you are online and the pictures helped more than you know. I try to pry it out again with a little more gusto. Thanks for the help.

Your mother should be proud! It poped out like an ugly pimple on prom night and then a 10 lb sledge has the spindel ready for the press. If we were sitting at the local pub I buy a few for you to throw back. But really THANK YOU another FTE success story.

Subscribing to this one! My front end has a lot more drag lately (drops mpg 2 now, compared to 0.5 before) and this is something I plan to do.

Now that's funny right there. Glad to help, can't count the number of times I've been helped here. :-drink
Not sure I understand the function of the 10lb sledge, but if it is suppose to "knock" those U-joints out... that will be an exercise in futility.

Sledge is to loosen the ball joints they can be real tight, I run the castle nut to the top of the threads and with some good old fassion blacksmiting, less the heat of coarse, they eventualy drop out. After that you have to jack the spindel back up so the ball joint wont turn to get the castle nut off. Its all easy, to talk about atleast.

Nice info and pics.

My E99, manu date 03-98, has 4WABS.

thanks for the info.
I will need to do the same in the future.