Trucks acting up
 

97 F250 HD 4x4 E4OD and 460...
Issue: About an hour before leaving for California NTC, it started stalling at red lights. Both times took a couple tries but it going again. Finally pulled into the parking lot and it died. It will start and running like it has about 4 cylinders misfiring. I put it into any gear, it hesitates and dies immediately. Akin to dropping a clutch rather than running out of fuel.

Work I did:
Plugs, wires, rotor, cap, coil, air filter, oil change, battery, TPS, ICM.

Even after sitting in -40F for a month without moving or starting, still started like a champ.

I guess you should look for any stored codes available, and then go from there.

Was down at California for a month. Got back and ran the test. No codes.

Something bothering me as well. In working on the truck its more accurate to get part for it from say a 96... It has OBD I connectors, and instead of the big box for ICM is the normal small block ICM but mounted on the fenderwall. The Stealership I bought it from says it was a 97. I ran the VIN and it says 97. But I thought that OBD 2 was mandated for anything after 96.

These '97s weren't supposed to be. I don't know the whole story. They were supposed to discontinue after the 96 but I think due to demand they continued production through 97. All the parts listing are inaccurate for 97, always order for 96!

There were two versions of the '97 F250. Light duty and heavy duty. I think the breakpoint was above or below 8500 lbs. GVW. Above that the truck used the older generation body and parts. Below that it used the newer generation body/frame and engine control, OBD-II.

I suspect your issue is with the PIP (aka stator) inside the distributor.

X2 on what rla2005 posted.
I had the same issue on my 95 300 and it turned out to be the MAP sensor. The computer never set a code for the sensor but it was getting a lean code on both banks.
regards
rikard

That is the best advice before dumping $$ into the issue. Warm up the engine and transmission then do this: Ford Fuel Injection » How To Run a Self-Test

Spent 8 hours in the shop today doing loads of diagnostic tests on the engine. After she checked out to be in fairly good shape, turned to the trans. Dropped the oil pan and found enough metal filings in there to pretty explain any problems in about 10 trannys. Looked like someone dumped a jar full of anti seize in the pan. Drained the torque converter as well, and the fluid was coppery colored with metal particles in it. After filling the system back up, I started it, same results. Did it again only this time I revved the engine a little bit, the back tire chirped... then it died. What is the possibility of the TC being the culprit? And if the TC is the only culprit what are the chances of the tranny still being good enough to use after replacement of the TC and a very thorough flushing followed by a trans oil change every 200 miles until clean? (installed a drain plug while I was under there)

My last question is: I've had four trucks all with over 100k miles on them. No trans issues, including an E4OD, a C6, and 2 4r70w's. What could someone POSSIBLY do to get a trans to do that after 51000 miles?

About this PIP sensor... I searched for it on google, and came to another thread here. It says easier to replace distributor. I'm not calling anybody out. But wouldnt bad ignition (aka failing under load) cause the engine to die as if its running out of gas? On another possibly related note, it runs rough in idle (as said) but it has a sweet spot where it runs like a brand new triton, i'm guessing at around 2000-2500 rpms (no tach) then gets rough again above that. Also it runs in both park and neutral equally well.

I have personally been part of several different PIP failure modes. The most common starts out as the engine runs fine when cold then gets progressively worse as the sensor heats up. The symptoms have been a slight miss, complete failure/no spark, rough running like multiple cylinders not firing, good spark but no fuel injector firing signal (that's a good one to find) and a few others.

Yes it easier to replace the entire distributor, but be aware many of the so-called rebuilt units are worse than the one you already have. If you have the time and a few tools, the stator (aka PIP) can be changed.

Dropped the Trans... When you rotate the TC by hand it clicks. Trans shop guy says it grenaded. Hes taking it apart to see whats salvageable and whats not.