Truck began stalling while driving, now wont start. PLEASE HELP!
I HAVE A 2004 F250 6.0L SUPERDUTY DIESEL, THAT WILL NOT START NOW.
MY PROBLEMS BEGAN WITH SPITTING AND SPUTTERING, WHICH QUICKLY LEARNED THAT IT WAS AN EGR VALVE. EGR VALVE WAS REPLACED IN DECEMBER 2010. SHORTLY AFTER THE EGR REPLACEMENT THE TRUCK STARTED STALLING WHILE DRIVING. MECHANICS HAVE NO IDEA, THERE ARE NO CODES WHEN TESTED. A FEW TIMES I HAVE HAD START UP ISSUES, BUT HAD GOTTEN GOING BY PUTTING IT IN NEUTRAL AND PUSHING IT BACK AND FORTH. NOW, IT WILL NOT START AND NO CRANK EITHER. WITHIN THE PAST 6 MONTHS...I HAVE GONE THROUGH 3 SETS OF BATTERIES, 2 ALTENATORS, NEW FUEL FILTERS, OIL CHANGES, A STARTER, AND THE EGR VALVE. CANT REALLY AFFORD TO TAKE IT TO THE DEALER AND MY VIN IS NOT INCLUDED IN THE RECALL FOR MY MODEL. AT MY WITS END WITH FORD...READY TO GIVE IT UP, HELP! |
any codes?
how far have you chased power and grounds of the starting circuit. have you check the fuses yet? |
Check fuel filters (both), and fuel pressure / volume...
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Originally Posted by cheezit
(Post 9820783)
any codes?
how far have you chased power and grounds of the starting circuit. have you check the fuses yet? |
Originally Posted by gearloose1
(Post 9820785)
Check fuel filters (both), and fuel pressure / volume...
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there is no volume spec. only pressure. but with a truck that wont even crank over, testing that wont get you far.
when you checked the fues did you pull them out and look at them or did you use a test light? if the latter please do the former. next have you tried to get the engine to crank by using the connector near the passanger side battery? have you check for network communacation concerns? does the cig light work. is there power and ground at the dlc? does the dash light up all the lights it should have? |
Originally Posted by cheezit
(Post 9820864)
there is no volume spec. only pressure. but with a truck that wont even crank over, testing that wont get you far.
when you checked the fues did you pull them out and look at them or did you use a test light? if the latter please do the former. next have you tried to get the engine to crank by using the connector near the passanger side battery? have you check for network communacation concerns? does the cig light work. is there power and ground at the dlc? does the dash light up all the lights it should have? |
Originally Posted by dmayfieldusmc
(Post 9820894)
all lights heater radio all dash lights work. DLC? and we looked at all the fusses. how do i crank engine by using connector near the passanger side battery?
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Oh that's cool thanks Bis. I'd rep ya but I'm still unable to rep you from the alternator thread.
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Sounds like the same issue we had with our 2005 6.0L, at first it would start when it was cold and when the engine heated up from driving 5-10 miles it would just die, problem got worse till it wouldn't start at all. If the 6.0L is not getting 500psi of oil pressure at all times it won't run. We had oil pressue when cold, but when it heated up it would drop under 500psi and die. The issue was a crack in the branch tube on the high pressue oil pump. A slight crack that got worse till it would not run at all. Not easy to check, but don't rule it out. We went nuts checking and testing everything till we found it and replaced the branch tube and it ran perfect.
When your EGR valve goes again, just delete it. It's one of the best moves we ever made on our 6.0L. We replaced an EGR @ 80K, 120k then it went again around 150k. We deleted it and now have 350k of hardcore 5th wheel trailer towing with no issues. Unless it is warranty, replacing and EGR is a complete waste of time and money. It took 3 to make it 150k miles, deleted it and then 200k of driving with no issues. Don't know anyone who has made it 200k on there original EGR. |
I tossed the egr on mine... it looks original... had 230k on it when it electrically failed.
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Originally Posted by NEMOTORCARS
(Post 9823622)
Sounds like the same issue we had with our 2005 6.0L, at first it would start when it was cold and when the engine heated up from driving 5-10 miles it would just die, problem got worse till it wouldn't start at all. If the 6.0L is not getting 500psi of oil pressure at all times it won't run. We had oil pressue when cold, but when it heated up it would drop under 500psi and die. The issue was a crack in the branch tube on the high pressue oil pump. A slight crack that got worse till it would not run at all. Not easy to check, but don't rule it out. We went nuts checking and testing everything till we found it and replaced the branch tube and it ran perfect.
When your EGR valve goes again, just delete it. It's one of the best moves we ever made on our 6.0L. We replaced an EGR @ 80K, 120k then it went again around 150k. We deleted it and now have 350k of hardcore 5th wheel trailer towing with no issues. Unless it is warranty, replacing and EGR is a complete waste of time and money. It took 3 to make it 150k miles, deleted it and then 200k of driving with no issues. Don't know anyone who has made it 200k on there original EGR. |
Do you tow at all?
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yes I tow my 18k+ 5'er probably somewhere around 2-5k miles a year. sometimes more sometimes less.
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We tow a 18k 50ft 3 Car trailer on a 5th every mile we drive. The only place the truck goes with out the trailer is the shop. We push it hard, 80-100k miles 5-6 days a week 11 plus hours per day. I think we have came across every issue you can have with a 6.0L.
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