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-   1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum128/)
-   -   Electric Cooling Fans (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1027086-electric-cooling-fans.html)

JWA 01-07-2011 06:56 PM

Electric Cooling Fans
 
Anyone here install one of these on their E vans? I have an '00 w/5.4l gas motor seriously considering adding one very soon.

Looking at the Flex-A-Lite site naturally there's nothing specific for our vehicles of choice, just one more "universal" kit instead of the hallowed F series---what a PITA this always is! Anyone here install something similar or a better fit/application perhaps? Photos would be great along with a bit of advice what to avoid during installation too.

Thanks


J W

maples01 01-07-2011 08:06 PM

I'd be scared of a universal kit, get some made in China junk and have a more serious problem, a blown engine from overheating. I replaced my radiator in my 99 E-350 with an upgraded all aluminum one, turned out to have less core area, retaining less fluid, end result is my temp gauge reads warmer than before. I have been told the factory clutch fan looses effectiveness as it ages, dropping a few RPM's, even under load, it turns no more than 75% at most. If you'd like to increase cooling, replace the factory clutch, and upgrade to a larger oil cooler.

econoshorty 01-07-2011 11:05 PM


Originally Posted by maples01 (Post 9791492)
I'd be scared of a universal kit, get some made in China junk and have a more serious problem, a blown engine from overheating. I replaced my radiator in my 99 E-350 with an upgraded all aluminum one, turned out to have less core area, retaining less fluid, end result is my temp gauge reads warmer than before. I have been told the factory clutch fan looses effectiveness as it ages, dropping a few RPM's, even under load, it turns no more than 75% at most. If you'd like to increase cooling, replace the factory clutch, and upgrade to a larger oil cooler.

The story I got on the aluminum rads is they are more effective at dissipating heat so they don't have to be as big as a brass one the tubes on aluminum ones are wider so a one core aluminum is suppose to cool as good as a two core stock. Did you change the thermastat ?

maples01 01-08-2011 12:05 AM

Why would I change a good T-stat, the factory radiator WAS aluminum, the tanks were plastic, it had 2 cores that were far wider than this more effective one, and the van ran cooler with it even low of coolant. Yep, that BS sales stuff doesn't work on me, I flushed the van, replaced my cap, and used distilled water with the antifreeze, goes down to negative 24, and in no way as effective as a stock unit.

JWA 01-08-2011 03:52 AM

Seems I should clarify my own post here!

I'm not now not ever had a cooling problem with the existing radiator or fan--oil temps seem to be fine as well. I'd be adding the electric fan in order to eliminate the factory clutch and blade simply to reduce engine drag and allow faster engine warm ups-------can't be a bad thing right?

By "universal kit" I we referring more to the Flex-A-Lite offerings as shown on their web site. I avoid any and all Chinese junk (my main reason for boycotting Wal Mart!) especially car/truck parts.

By all means if the factory viscious drive fan hub were an issue that would be changed without question ASAP. I'm simply curious if the Flex-A-Lite fans aren't "better" than stock. My current radiator is fine---I have friends in the radiator business so replacement if neccessary isn't a big issue either.

Keep the ideas comin' guys-----good info so far!

jcee 01-08-2011 07:05 AM

This sounds like something I might want to try. Should you find a fan for this how would you wire it up. Are you going to have a switch where you control the on/off or are you going to have it controlled by a thermal switch like the newer models. I'm under the impression that vehicles now have a sending unit for the temp guage and a thermal switch in the same circuit that controls the fan. Is it possible to tap into the existing circuit and run the fan or would you have to install a thermal switch of some type.

Do the universal kits handle this issue in other vehicles?

JWA 01-08-2011 08:07 AM

JCee Flex-A-Lite has full installation instructions on their website but as mentioned they don't cover most vans. Its a very well engineered product overall with integrated wiring and controls that could be mistaken for factory installed.

I've got to stress again the "universal" bit is for fit only as it relates to vans in general. Nearly every other truck has an application specific installation kit but basically these units are sized according to the radiator surface area and depth. Diameter of the fan blades and multiple fans provide more than adequate air flow to assure proper cooling amost regardless of the engines load. In warmer climates vehicles with A/C could benefit as well.

I'd use Flex-A-Lite despite their somewhat pricey nature but going cheap for this application would be just plain crazy.

maples01 01-08-2011 05:37 PM

I can tell you the biggest gain is idle, my AC is useless in traffic, when I idle the air ceases to be cold, it starts to turn luke warm, if I could afford $400, I would go with one, a truck unit would fit. I plan to get a large oil cooler, one to fit behind the bumper where I have a cut out for ducting air into the lower portion of the radiator.

econoshorty 01-08-2011 06:25 PM


Originally Posted by maples01 (Post 9792562)
Why would I change a good T-stat, the factory radiator WAS aluminum, the tanks were plastic, it had 2 cores that were far wider than this more effective one, and the van ran cooler with it even low of coolant. Yep, that BS sales stuff doesn't work on me, I flushed the van, replaced my cap, and used distilled water with the antifreeze, goes down to negative 24, and in no way as effective as a stock unit.

Right, I should have said "check"

Henry10s 01-08-2011 09:18 PM


Originally Posted by JWA (Post 9792784)
Seems I should clarify my own post here!

I'm not now not ever had a cooling problem with the existing radiator or fan--oil temps seem to be fine as well. I'd be adding the electric fan in order to eliminate the factory clutch and blade simply to reduce engine drag and allow faster engine warm ups-------can't be a bad thing right?

Both premises are correct. Going electric fan is a known technique for increasing power (relatively). I would think the effect would be more noticeable on smaller engines / ricers. I doubt (without any proof whatsoever) that this would have any liberating effect on your 5.4. I kinda agree with Maples -- making sure that the clutch is operating properly might be more "bang for the buck".

Additionally, electric fan would draw more power, so the alternator drag would increase inversely.

Engine drag is the issue you want to attack: Larger oil cooler doesn't help with that. Mods (intake, exhaust, chip) would help with power.

maples01 01-09-2011 12:01 AM

Intake exhaust and chip WILL increase the temp of the engine, I can attest to this as I have experienced it, you can't increase HP without increasing heat as the spark is hotter, that is basic engine knowledge. Yes an e-fan increases electric draw but remember only during its operation, which happens to be at lower RPM's where you are not moving, something that is a moot point, made up during traveling time. How often are you in traffic, if you are a regular commuter, pass on an e-fan, but if you spend a lot of time on the HWY, it's the only way to go.

JWA 01-09-2011 06:28 AM

The main reason I'd consider an electric cooling fan is actually two-fold; reduced engine drag and moduating air flow over the radiator based upon demand. Flex-A-Lite has engineered a great retro-fit product that does both things very very well.

At idle with A/C I could acheive sufficient air flow across both the radiator and A/C condenser, closer to whats experienced at freeway speeds. Reduced warm up times during colder months is another benefit.

My goal isn't necessarily to increase power but the benefit of eliminating the constant drag of a viscious drive fan can't hurt anything. Electric fans would almost never draw their designed current plus I'm guessing during our winters here in Ohio I'm tax my alternator already with headlights, radio, heater AND auxilliary rear heater along with wipers occasionally running all at the same time!

Once I've heard from Flex-A-Lite regarding their recommendations I'll post that info in case anyone else is curious about this sort of set up.

Good points being raised by all that's for sure!

gearloose1 01-09-2011 07:04 AM

The problem inherent with the Van layout is that there is just not enough air flow given the limited space and the way the body sits on top of the engine.

It was airflow more than anything else, that limited how powerful an engine can be fitted --- though they really pushed it with the V10 and the 6.0


V-10 is rated at 362 horsepower and 457 pounds-feet of torque

The 6.4 was a fine mechanical fit, but with a lot more power output, the thermal management became a nightmare, so it was never introduced and Ford ran with the 6.0 until 2010 model year, when they finally ran out of engines in Fall 2009.


The 6.7? That is going to be real interesting.

I think it can be fitted to the van, but with some real imaginative management of where the air cooler is --- possibly on the hood.


The point is, in that chassis, no matter which engine you get, there is a serious issue with air flow and heat dissipation.

One strategy is to see if the fan (if electronically programmed like on the 6.0) can be made to turn on far earlier or automatically with AC.

Likewise for the 5.4 --- can the fan be made to turn on sooner?

Adding a electric fan on the front is the same basic idea.

JWA 01-09-2011 07:28 AM

Mr Gearloose you raise great points and I'm immediately drawn back to the later 60's and early 70's when every smallish car could be factory-ordered with a 400+ CID engine-----talk about shoe horning something never intended to fit! Same with the E van and engine/cooling packages---has to be a huge challenge.

Then again I can't see how the van would be more of a cooling challenge over a pick up since both somewhat enclose the engine and similarly restrict the free movement of air. Larger radiators and fans seem to handle the cooling needs of most every engine/body combination I've seen so far. Admittedly I'm not that knowledgeable of all Ford's offerings or inherent issues so perhaps I'm not seeing the whole picture.

I do have to say I'm pleasantly surprised that (according to the factory temp gauge) my 5.4 gas motor never seems to run all that hot even during our hottest months even with A/C on. The A/C's efficiency is noticably reduced at all but 55-65 MPH which thankfully is the bulk of my driving. This is where I believe the electric fan would benefit me.

Flex-A-Lite does have a variable and user adjustable temperature control with manual over ride too. Factory recommended coolant temp can be easily maintained with this somewhat sophisticated control---one more benefit relating to A/C.

gearloose1 01-09-2011 08:32 AM

Take a look at the doghouse for the gasser and put it next to the diesel.

You will be amazed at how much extra heat / noise insulation goes into the same part for the diesel.

I did a lot of insulation around the cab to quiet down the diesel --- and it was a huge job... ended up with roughly an inch of insulation on the floor, multiple layers, also upgraded insulation on dash, on top of dog house, behind doghouse (in the empty space for the bins), doors, etc.

Noise is nearly (but not quite) at gasser levels with this work.. but it was a lot of work.


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