bleeding the clutch slave for 1995 F150
 

<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";} </style> <![endif]-->
1995 F150, 6cyl, manual transmission. I am having issues with my clutch; about every other week the fluid levels drop enough in the reservoir to kill it. The pedal has no presser and I can not shift. I add fluid and it starts working again. There are no wet spots on the firewall, reservoir, line to the slave, cannot see any dampness through the inspection port in the side of the transmission, and no wet spots on the driveway.
So I’m tired of messing with it, going to replace the slave and reservoir. Some of the people I have talked with say bleeding the slave on this truck is a nightmare. Any tricks to bleeding the slave for my clutch?
Thank you.
Eric

Bleeding a Concentric Hydraulic Clutch Set-up .: Articles Have a read through this article.

Clutch pedal in bleeder open, when you let the pedal up, bleader has to be closed.. was easy to do by myself with a piece of hose on the bleader, and I would just hold my finger over the end when I let the pedal up.

My slave cylinder broke a few days ago during a roadtrip (about 2,000 miles from home).

Luckily, I was parked, not in traffic. I found a parts store within walking distance that had it in stock for $60.

Bleeding it was a breeze... I simply pressed the pedal many times with the master cyl's cap off until there were no more bubbles getting out (I had a helper looking at the master cyl's reservoir for that). Then I put the cap back on it and it was working perfectly.

Might not be exactly the same for you though, as you have the Mazda tranny and I the ZF one.

I wish you a job as easy as mine... but still I doubt it's going to be a "nightmare".

Good luck :)

I would suggest that you find out the actual cause of your loss of fluid.

Unless I'm getting mixed up here I think you mean you want to change the master cylinder an reservoir. The master cylinder is on the fire wall. The master cylinder and reservoir are one unit. It is easy to replace if you can manage to get the roller pin out of the hydrolic line.

If you are going to change the slave cylinder it is going to be a major job. The slave cylinder is in inside the bell housing of your transmission. This requires dropping the transmission out of your truck.

As far as bleeding the slave cylinder this is easiest with two people. I had my fiance depress the clutch pedal and hold it. Then I opened the bleeder. It pokes out of the transmission case. Fluid will come out at this point. When it stopped I closed the bleeder and told her to let off of the pedal. You want to repeat this process until you get a solid stream of fluid coming out of the bleeder with no sputtering or air bubbles.

Finding the cause of your leak is going to be the best bet. If it's losing fluid it is losing it from somewhere and it's going to be cheaper and easier to replace just the part that you need instead of throwing parts at it.

Good luck!

Bleeding it is easy - all you need is a wrench, a piece of hose, and a mayo jar. If the jar is clean you can dump what comes out back in.

Just because the fluid is disappearing doesn't mean the slave is bad - I thought the same years ago and went through the hassle of replacing the slave and it turned out not to solve the problem - my problem is the clutch cylinder - that's what's leaking. I fill up the reservior every morning before I head out (usually just a dribble) as if I forget for a few days it's empty and I have to bleed again.

Of course I have the new one on my workbench for a couple of months now, but now it's too darn cold for me to want to do that job considering all the other, unrelated car things I have to do first.

Replacing both is smart, in my opinion.

Wow, reading the other posts, I realize that my recent experience of successfully replacing and bleeding the (external) clutch slave cylinder on my 1994 F250 has absolutely nothing to do with the topic...

So, you can ignore my pointless previous post (#4) in this thread.

Good luck!