Tips for removing fuse block and GEM?
 

Hi everyone,

I've got the dreaded windshield-leaking-onto-the-GEM problem. Little rust hole just above the glass, under the trim rubber. The truck has the usual weird effects - blower fan stays on, passenger airbag light flickers on and off, relays clicking randomly all when the truck is off.
I'm hoping that I've caught it early, and I just need to dry and clean the contacts on the GEM and fuse block. It seems tricky to get those out, and I don't want to start yanking on things. No direction in the Haynes manual. Any pointers? Do I need to remove the bolted-on connectors on the back of the GEM before removing? It's pretty tight in there, lots of little things to break.

Thanks,
Todd

details for your truck? yr, engine,etc?

Right, good question: 2000 f250, 5.4L with automatic.

Thanks,
Todd

Before 2002:

Remove he ground terminals from the battery. Remove cover trim from main fuse block area under the steering column. Using a 10mm socket, remove the two large plugs from the back of the fuse block. One bolt for each plug. Move the harness/plugs up out of the way.

Using a 10mm deep socket remove the two(?) nuts and one bolt (might be two bolts and one nut) from the top and bottom of the front of the fuse block. Manuever the fuse block in and down to remove it from the back of the supports.

Remove the GEM from the back of the fuse block by removing the bolts with the 10mm socket. Inspect and clean the contacts.

Install by reversing this procedure. :-D

Perfect, thanks Jock. I'll pull it tomorrow morning, and hopefully a little drying time (and a touch of compressed air) will solve all those irritating problems. I'd really rather not have to cough up for a new GEM!

Thanks,
Todd

I got the fuse block and GEM out without too much difficulty. It's a little tight working under there, but not too bad. I found unbolting the parking brake release lever helped a bit.

All the weird bugs are gone now too - the GEM was totally dry, but the two big connectors at the back of the fuse block were pretty wet. I also took the covers on those connectors off - there we a lot of water under those too.

Now, to try to half-assed seal up the windshield until I can really fix it in the spring. Damn rust.

Sounds like you are making progress. Use some dielectric grease on/in the plugs when you put them back into the fuse block. It will help keep the water out.

To JockD I was re-installing a 2001 F-250 7.3 fuse panel and was wondering is there anyway to install the wiring harness blocks on the back of a 2001 F-250 7.3 super duty fuse block in the wrong hole.Hopefully the blocks will only install one way and That I cannot put one of the wiring harness blocks in the wrong hole. Please help me.
thanks,
george

They should go on only one way

Couple of decent videos by other guys....

...you can hear the relays buzzing at about 4:00...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Raxl...youtu.be&t=300

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HneD...youtu.be&t=617

I coated my PCB (printed circuit board) with CorrosionX "conformal coating" spray. I also sprayed it into the wire-way on the back of the fuse block. I pasted the plug sockets full of dielectric grease. My hope is that the grease will be a dam to keep further water out.

Did this job on my f150.

You can get contact cleaner like Blue Shower that is safe for electronics and will flash off and leave no residue.

I had my windshield pulled and replaced as well as removed the cowling under the wipers and used flexseal spray under that area to keep it from possible backing up into that area again.

I also made a makeshift form and sprayed against it with the flex seal to direct water away from possible running onto the fuse block under the hood right there if you run a water hose on the roof with the hood up you can see where a little dike area would be beneficial.

New member needs a little help