What would you do? The Plan?
 

Hi Guys,
I got my 1950 Ford F1 with a 302 engine out of the great black hole it was in & I'm getting some help to get it back running well - They are peppering me with all sorts of questions about "The Plan"" for this truck. I need some help with "The Plan".
Questions:
What color do you want us to paint the engine? Ideas?

What sensible mod's do you want to make to the stock 1969 vintage 302?
- Rebuild the bottom end? Pistons, Rings, etc.
- New Carb?
- Summit Racing kit for the top end?
- How much money would you spend to spruce up the 302?

What kind of seats do you want to put in it?

Should a 9 inch rear end be part of the plan?

Wood Bed or diamond plate?

Air Conditioning or Heating?

I'm looking at using the truck for a weekend hobby truck - light hauling, knocking
around Central Texas. What would be your Must Haves on a truck like this?
It already has a new Mustang II front end installed with disc brakes - All safety issues will be addressed. Will never be a show truck.

Thx
Ben D.

how about a dark brown truck or black (anything but red),engine Ford blue stock rebuild no waisting gas, stock seat with new padding, auto AOD trans, 9" rear end, not to low suspension,big wheels,heater & defrost, no AC not needed, definite wood bed floor, how long have you had the truck?, Gerry

Hi Gerry,
That's the kind of friendly advice I'm looking for - I've had the truck since May &
I had it in a shop all summer with little progress but finally got the IFRS installed so it's off to a more general/practical upgrade. It's currently painted black - it's one of those Maaco specials where they just spray over everything rust, bondo etc. I can make it look pretty later after it get's on more solid ground.

Is it pretty straight forward to get heat/defrost installed? I like your suggestion of Ford Blue for the engine.

Ben in Austin

Ben,

This sounds like it will be a daily driver. I'd let the engine builder decide as to what the engine needs as far as the bottom end is concerned and if the block needs boring, then put in new pistons and rings. Replace the cam, cam bearings, timing chain and gear, oil pump, and have the heads redone. If the block is okay then let the engine builder decide what you need as far as pistons.

The carburetor would depend on what condition the old one is in. If it's okay then you can just have it rebuilt. I'm not familiar with the Summit Racing Kit so I can't help there.

How much you spend on the engine depends on how deep your pockets are but if it were me I'd want to do the engine for about $1200- $1500 or less but that's just me. My pockets are rather shallow. If you spend much more than that then I would look at a crate engine as an alternative.

I find the original seat a little uncomfortable. It sits too upright, it's too high for a tall person (I'm 6'2") and leaves little room at the steering wheel, so I would opt for something like a 90s Ranger bench seat. It can be leaned back to give you a more comfortable ride, the back is thinner to give you more room at the steering wheel, and it's not as high so you can see through the center of the windshield instead of the top 1/3. A bench seat also retains the original look if that's what you want.

You don't need a nine inch rear with the 302 and since you already have a MII in front I'd find a rear end that has a matching bolt pattern. The 8.8 Explorer rear is a good fit if you have the 5x4.5 pattern and a 10-bolt Chevy is a good fit if you have the 5x4.75 pattern.

Since you said you will be doing light hauling, the diamond plate sounds like a better option than a finished wood bed.

Living in Texas, I'd definitely consider a combination heat and A/C unit like from Vintage Air. 8D

PS Definitely Ford blue for the engine paint!

I have to start by laughing, because I have a few questions that you need to think of;


To your questions
What color do you want us to paint the engine? Ideas? "Second for the Ford Engine Blue"

What sensible mod's do you want to make to the stock 1969 vintage 302?
- Rebuild the bottom end? Pistons, Rings, etc.
- New Carb?
- Summit Racing kit for the top end?
- How much money would you spend to spruce up the 302?
Are you wanting to go fast or a nice cruiser? What tranmission are you using? "Make it dependable"

What kind of seats do you want to put in it?
"Hard choice here. But I like the bench. Always used the middle seat."

Should a 9 inch rear end be part of the plan?
"Change out the rear end if you plan on traveling with it"

Wood Bed or diamond plate?
What do you call light hauling? and what? Is wood going to be damaged when you haul something? "Wood looks good. Diamond plate steel is tough!"

Air Conditioning or Heating?
"Both then you can enjoy it at any time or weather"

Thanks Vern - That helps a lot - I like the practical approach - I'll look for the ranger seats - It currently has some sort of old buckets bolted to the floor - not adjustible - I agree the bench look is more traditional. I'm on the Blue Ford engine color.

Thx again

Ben in Austin

Some other options on the bench seat include Nissan, Toyota, Dodge D-50, and Mazda trucks from about 85 to 95...:)

Thanks Moe,
I'll revisit the A/C question - It's November in Texas we are all driving with our windows down feeling good - Come July/August I'll be dying. The truck will be more of a cruiser than going fast but like most guys going fast is always tempting - I'll try to stay practical on the engine. So just tear it down & rebuild it but no new top end?

Ben D/ in Austin.

I haven't had a wood bed - I've seen them - they are pretty - but do guys park it outside in 110 degrees, rain & all that?

Definitly ford blue stock looking for the engine...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...id=235094&.jpg

I've seen more than one Bonus Built painted dark brown (non-metallic), it doesn't work IMO. Any dark color also means you'll need pristine bodywork or it will really show. Go with a light color, it hides flaws and you can get by without A/C. Even when it's 95 here, my cab is not really bad.

I'd go with a quality long-block rather than rebuild the one you've got, unless you want the experience. Very little difference in cost and you get a warranty.

What trans is in it now? If you do an AOD, you'll have to mod the crossmember, maybe that's already done for a C-4? If you did an AOD you could stick with the stock rear end.

Here is the Engine Plan proposal - What do you think?
" Ok, the motor. We're comparing apples and oranges here a bit when balancing rebuild versus crate motor, I think. It depends a little on your desires- do you want performance AND reliability, or just reliability? This is a heavy truck- extra horsepower (not racecar hp, just a bit more oomph) would be a plus for most folks. If you buy a Ford crate motor, it's EXPENSIVE- and it's bone stock. For a great deal more money, you can buy a performance crate motor, but that's, to me, a waste of money in this case.

My suggestion would be (if this motor isn't salvageable) a shortblock. That's a block with pistons/rods/etc all installed, no top end. Much more reasonable pricewise. Then a performance top kit- aluminum heads, intake, carb, mild cam, headers, all gaskets. They're usually under 2K, sometimes well under- depending on options wanted. Probably looking at about $2500 for a well performing 302, with carb and headers, mild cam, peformance intake, aluminum heads that flow well. I'd estimate labor to run between 3-5 hundred, so let's call it 3K installed. I think that's an excellent price, but you can compare that to crate motors if you want to look at them.

If that block is ok, I'd acid dip it, hone it, new bearings & rings, and a top kit from summit. You'd have a new bottom end, aluminum heads, nice performer intake, new 4 barrel carb, headers, mild cam. I'd estimate a $500 savings over the shortblock route & you get to keep your engine. This is the route I'd go if it was my truck."


Does this sound like a reasonable Engine Plan for the tired ol 1969 302?

Ben D., Austin TX

He's in TEXAS! Ninety-five degrees in Texas is like about 120 where you are...:-rip

Wood bed, for sure. Plates can be used harder, but a nice wood bed is a sight to be hold. It's one of the main features of the a vintage truck. To get rid of it to me is like getting rid of the big fenders.

Hi Stephen,
I wouldn't actually be getting rid of an existing wood bed - someone before me already did that & welded in a fat piece of sheet of metal - One piece that looks like it was cut out with a blow torch & welded in by some one after a few too many cool ones. It works but it's fugly. The sun is so hot here in Texas - I look at my wood deck out back of the house after 10 years - makes you nervous about putting wood into the back of a truck. I like the look a lot but can I keep it looking ok without huge effort?

Ben D. (Austin)

Someone did a great job with the manufactured plastic planks, I think it was on here. they won't have to do anything to it but let it look great. You just have the same problem as I do of the sun, I hear that if you put something heavy or bolt it down to tight it kinda melts some. A friend made a wooden bed floor that he could pull out of his truck because they still used a '34 Ford P/U to haul rocks in the 80's. But wanted it to look nice when he was going out on dates.... LOL.... with the tailgate up you didn't really notice that it wasn't the true bed...

I drove around AZ for 15 years without AC.... But back then there wasn't all these add on aftermarket ones that you can buy and put in.... wish there was.... still be driving my first truck if there was.... Just my 2 cents worth... a lot easier to turn it off if you don't need it then to not enjoy the truck because it doesn't have it and it hot out.