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Originally Posted by ctubutis
(Post 10394776)
Looks better than mine!
The lip onto which the rubber is supposed to attach is totally GONE on mine, you can see through it to the frame below. The cab corners & rockers have been Bondo'd by a PO. I bought an entire new cab from a jy. It had air conditioning and mine doesn't have that so I'll have to figure out how to accommodate that but it should be fairly easy. Maybe I can just find the parts to add factory air to mine..... |
Used it to pull this 25 miles.
http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/h...SDC10816-1.jpg Sorry for the dark pic, it was just after 9PM when I got home with it. |
Got the all rust cut out. Cleaned up the interior floor. Removed and cleaned all the vinyl parts around my headliner and back window. Also ordered the floor pans for the interior.
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Changed my upper radiator hose. Took all of 5 minutes. The old one was swollen to twice it's normal diameter at the water pump.
Loaded it up with brush and debris from around the place. Nothing sounds quite like a straight six working. I also bladed the driveway but I used my MF135 for that task. |
Pulled the temp sending unit out of the Explorer and held it up against the one out of the parts truck. The old one measured 800 ohms while the new one measured 156 ohms - both at the same temp. Heated them, equally, and the difference stayed roughly the same.
So, the "new" one went into the Explorer (sure gets complicated explaining things when you have two '82 trucks and most parts are the same age) and I started it up. The temp gauge is now reading properly instead of staying between the C and the bottom end of the NORMAL range. It moved slowly up to the O of NORMAL, at which point the 180 degree 'stat opened and heat flooded out of the radiator. The gauge then went down to N for a few seconds and then moved to halfway between N & O, where it stayed. After idling for ~15 minutes in 86 degree air I revved it up to 2500 RPM and the fan noise went away after a few seconds. I'm assuming that means that it needed all the air the fan could move to keep it cool at idle but that it didn't at the higher RPM so the bimetallic spring in the fan cut the speed back. Agree? RW - Must be your father's truck. So, you have it home and are starting to repair the frame? Maybe you can have it somewhat roadable for Father's Day and take him on a drive. |
Originally Posted by 1980 Ford F-250
(Post 10392364)
lamar804, That is a VERY nice truck!! I would live to have one of those!!!!
Originally Posted by jthorngate3
(Post 10392113)
NICE!!!!!!:-jammin
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
(Post 10399366)
Pulled the temp sending unit out of the Explorer and held it up against the one out of the parts truck. The old one measured 800 ohms while the new one measured 156 ohms - both at the same temp. Heated them, equally, and the difference stayed roughly the same.
So, the "new" one went into the Explorer (sure gets complicated explaining things when you have two '82 trucks and most parts are the same age) and I started it up. The temp gauge is now reading properly instead of staying between the C and the bottom end of the NORMAL range. It moved slowly up to the O of NORMAL, at which point the 180 degree 'stat opened and heat flooded out of the radiator. The gauge then went down to N for a few seconds and then moved to halfway between N & O, where it stayed. After idling for ~15 minutes in 86 degree air I revved it up to 2500 RPM and the fan noise went away after a few seconds. I'm assuming that means that it needed all the air the fan could move to keep it cool at idle but that it didn't at the higher RPM so the bimetallic spring in the fan cut the speed back. Agree? RW - Must be your father's truck. So, you have it home and are starting to repair the frame? Maybe you can have it somewhat roadable for Father's Day and take him on a drive. Yes, that's dad's truck, it is here, and I actually got it running, and drove it a couple hundred feet yesterday. It's at a freind's house, who just happens to be a body man with MUCH greater welding skills than I posses. The plan is to clean up the frame around the crack, and weld it up the proper way, plus add a "scab" plate over the welded crack. Radius arm bushings are non-existant, and the belts are beyond belief. Needs the rear brake hydraulics looked into as well. The smaller front chamber of the master was dry, but it had pedal. If I can't get it road worth by father's day, I'm hoping to have that way by mid September, when his birthday rolls around again. I talked to him a few minutes ago, and he has no clue I have it here. Gonna see if he will sign the title over to me, so I can insure it and update the tag. Only expired in Dec 08........ Also, I need a 4bbl intake for an FE (390). The factory carb was stuck closed, but I managed to free it up. I have a new edelbrock 600, just gotta get the kickdown bracket and electric choke kits. Dad always wanted a 4bbl, and the cam in that motor needs it. We both dislike holley's, which is why it never got the carb upgrade it needs. |
Well, I bought a can of R134a to top off the A/C in the Mazda truck, as it was just a bit low. Only took about 1/4 can. Since my can tap has a small leak, I decided to not waste the other 3/4 can, so I put it in the 80 F150. I converted it to R134a 10-12 years ago.
$10 got the A/C in the mazda frosty cold, and the F150 moderately cold. It could use about 1/2 can more. That will wait till I'm ready to top up the RX7's cooler...... Unless I have dad's truck road worthy. He converted it to R134a about 3 months before we did my F150...... |
Swapped out the front end "bright work", switched to '80 style corners, and painted an extra grill that I had to match everything. Still needs a center emblem, but I think it looks a lot better.
Before: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...0/DSCN7712.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...0/DSCN7713.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...0/DSCN7714.jpg After: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...0/DSCN7772.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...0/DSCN7780.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...0/DSCN7799.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...0/DSCN7800.jpg Also of note, the before pictures were also before I compounded and waxed all the grime off. |
RW - I'm with you on Holley's. The first one I had, on a new '69 Super Bee, leaked at the bowl gasket from the factory. Finally pulled it off and found the casting wasn't square, so had it milled and the problem was solved. But, anyone who designs things that require cork gaskets to hold gasoline in doesn't get my vote for engineer of the year.
That's why I like Rochester and Carter carbs - they have metal holding the gas in. May have told you, but my 390 in the '72 did much better w/the 4 bbl manifold and Q-Jet than w/the dinky 2 bbl Autolite. And, w/the 9 1/2' self-contained camper on its back I had many opportunities to let it roar. But, that Q-Jet was rated at 750 CFM, so if you have a cam in that FE you may not have enough carb at 600. I know the FE's weren't RPM engines, but..... Have you downloaded Comp Cams application and played w/it to see what carb works best w/a cam about like yours? |
This weekend did a Duraspark II swap on my '86 F150 with the 300. Its running and driving a lot better now. The swap was pretty straightforward and easy, only real snag I hit was my battery died right after I finished the swap but I bought a new one. I looked through 4 junkyards until I finally found a truck with the parts I needed. Looking forward to seeing how this improves my gas mileage and it has already improved my driving performance and power.
After we finished the swap, my buddies and I snapped a pic of all our trucks. http://i51.tinypic.com/s3hq9j.jpg http://i53.tinypic.com/ax09de.jpg |
Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
(Post 10401030)
RW - I'm with you on Holley's. The first one I had, on a new '69 Super Bee, leaked at the bowl gasket from the factory. Finally pulled it off and found the casting wasn't square, so had it milled and the problem was solved. But, anyone who designs things that require cork gaskets to hold gasoline in doesn't get my vote for engineer of the year.
That's why I like Rochester and Carter carbs - they have metal holding the gas in. May have told you, but my 390 in the '72 did much better w/the 4 bbl manifold and Q-Jet than w/the dinky 2 bbl Autolite. And, w/the 9 1/2' self-contained camper on its back I had many opportunities to let it roar. But, that Q-Jet was rated at 750 CFM, so if you have a cam in that FE you may not have enough carb at 600. I know the FE's weren't RPM engines, but..... Have you downloaded Comp Cams application and played w/it to see what carb works best w/a cam about like yours? As dad always said, there's not much you can do to improve MPG on a FE. There's also not much you can to make any worse, so might as well make lots of power......
Originally Posted by CougRedFord
(Post 10401075)
This weekend did a Duraspark II swap on my '86 F150 with the 300. Its running and driving a lot better now. The swap was pretty straightforward and easy, only real snag I hit was my battery died right after I finished the swap but I bought a new one. I looked through 4 junkyards until I finally found a truck with the parts I needed. Looking forward to seeing how this improves my gas mileage and it has already improved my driving performance and power.
After we finished the swap, my buddies and I snapped a pic of all our trucks. http://i51.tinypic.com/s3hq9j.jpg http://i53.tinypic.com/ax09de.jpg I might have to do a DS2 conversion myself. They still put points in 74 F100's powered by a 390....... |
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this is about a months worth of work
http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/m...idefender1.jpgshaved the marker light and got the little dings out of the fender http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/m...idefender3.jpg first coat of primer http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/m...riversside.jpg the new bed side is in welding is done ground down filled over and primed still needs a final sanding ill do that once the body is reassembled http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/m...sengerside.jpg the welding machine or the welder or both didnt have a good day on this side http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/m...ck98/hood2.jpgstriping the paint off the hood to see if i can reuse it |
I got my interior mocked up, and all the holes drilled. So after I replace the floor pans, I can get everything installed.
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/.../Photo0114.jpg http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/.../Photo0115.jpg |
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