Ct, is that any good? The PO hacked into my wiring for a Dana electric control box 80's vintage appears to be, in addition to a hydraulic bc. I am trying to figure out what wires would go to where after I pull those two units out. I have my bed wired up just not my trailer plug.

I use the thing when I rent U-Haul trailers.

Underneath the driver's side rear is a union - where the wiring that runs down the length of the truck is joined with the rear tail lights, back up lights, license plate lamps.

These things fit in between those two plugs and provide a third, trailer plug.

Changed oil and filter, Mobile 1 Synthetic 0W-40 and Puralator filter. Installed magnetic oil pan plug. Changed transmission and rear differential oil, Lucas Synthetic 75W-90. Truck runs great, I think it likes expensive synthetic oils!

Haven't done squat to my truck in the past two weeks. It has been held hostage in the shop with a bum transmission. Turns out, I'm not as good at adjusting AOD shift cables as I thought.

Gonna see if the guy has a C6, and just pitch the idea of an overdrive for awhile.

Pulled my HVAC blower motor to see how much trash had built up in the housing....

Surprisingly, not much at all. Just a few handfuls.

Problem came when I tried to remove the accumulator/drier....I tried to turn the big fitting that connects to the threaded end of the accumulator, and the whole HVAC housing turned with it. So now there's a massive gap around the whole housing (therefore little to no airflow will get to the dash registers)....and I'm deciding whether or not I want to just yank the whole thing and make a project out of cleaning out the heater core, resealing the whole housing to the firewall, and doing the relay-switched fan motor mod.

Good thing I don't have working AC or I'd have been pretty upset. lol

What would the purpose be of removing your drier unit? Lastly, ever fix your antenna? :-X03

Lets see I washed my truck the other day, the warn bumper rhinolined and on the pickup. Going to give it a good high speed wax job this next weekend. New brake booster, clutch, cb cb antenna, cab lights, and powdercoat rims and windshield trim and mirrors and new mirror glass is what I am waiting on now.

Get it out of the way so I could remove the resistor pack for cleaning. I felt around in the blower housing and it felt like there were a bunch of leaves caked up around it, and the drier was preventing me from moving my wrench effectively.

It's been open to the elements for years so it's no good anyway. I might just yank out the whole housing tomorrow and see how it mounts and seals, then put it back and reseal it with some gasket maker I have.

And no. :B I really want to have a little piece of metal welded in the hole so it looks like it was never there, and do some sort of hidden antenna setup. Maybe a power antenna off of a car mounted between the cab and bed?

Haven't got anything else done on my truck today...might take a few things to the scrap yard tomorrow.

It rained this weekend... which means there was mud... which means the '84 went out for the first time since last year. So far, everything is working great! I've street driven it three times and had it out on the trails once this weekend. Still waiting for some good weekend weather to do the motor swap.

Pulled the computer codes on my '86 today, the first time I've ever done it. KOEO "on demand" gave only one code, which was 11. The "memory" code produced was also 11. 11 = System Pass, so my truck scored an A+ on its first exam! I didn't perform the "Engine ON" test, what's the point? If something was wrong, it should have been stored in the memory.

I also found and cleaned my timing marks, painted the timing indicator line on the pulley white, and learned where my SPOUT connector is. So next step is to check the timing. None of my manuals have instructions for checking timing on my EEC-IV system, but I think I have figured it out from searching posts here. Here are the steps as I understand it, someone please correct me if I don't have it right.

1) Warm up engine, disconnect SPOUT
2) Use timing light to see where indicator line falls on timing marks. It should be 10 degrees BTDC (or whatever my sticker says)
3) If it is not, rotate distributor cap until it is
4) Reconnect SPOUT
5) Check to see if increasing engine speed causes timing to become more advanced. If it does, everything is ok. If it does not, then my feedback system is faulty somewhere.

Sound right? Thanks!

bought a 1970 model 429, D0ve C heads.....pick it up tomorrow, and then the REAL fun begins! (the rebuild)

Goodbye 6 cylinder!

Paid my trans guy $600 dollars for a new AOD and install. Hopefully will have my truck back in a few days. I can't wait to get to breaking in the new engine and trans!

Got my 302 block back from the shop, bored and prepped for my 347 kit. Taped it up and painted it gloss black also, which is what the frame and all suspension/steering will be powdercoated.

For Joe and Pilot: Pictures or none of it happened.:-X22

xjpilot, where did you find an oven big enough to hold a frame?

Tried to rub the paint out on the hood. My metallic dark brown paint is faded and chalky. Not sure that I made much of a difference. I hit with heavy duty 3M rubbing compound, followed that with swirl remover and finished with just plain ole Turtle Wax. I burned through the top coat in a couple of places. I have never tried to bring paint this far gone back before so it is a learning experience.
I did a little section of the tan and it came back much better (I think that it is non-metallic helps).
I am going to try a couple other things first on the hood before I tackle the balance of the truck.