4.6 in 54 F100
 

What would be the biggest problem with putting a 4.6 (or 5.4 if I can swing it) into my 54 F100? Does anyone make a plug & play wiring set for this? I had a 5.4 in a 2001 Excursion and it motivated that monster fine.

One thing I have heard as a problem is that the ECM needs the computer chip key to run. Is there any way around that?

Please don't tell me to keep the 239 Y block. It weighs within 15 pounds of a 460!

You can purchase an aftermarket custom harness to make the mod motors run. They are kind of pricey at $1000-1200. They reprogram the ECU to get rid of the theft deterrent feature that works with the ignition plus eliminate some other unwanted features. You could also purchase all the wiring from a salvage yard or get a complete donor vehicle and make your own. I'm not smart enough to do that so I will be purchasing an after market harness for my Lightning 5.4, probably from The Detail Zone. I have heard rumors that Ford Motorsport might be offering something in the future but to date it just seems to be a rumor.

Check out the latest HotRod tech section, they installed Edelbrocks new ignition, fuel and intake system for the 5.4L, it can run COP's and a carb or EFI IIRC for around $800. They had a carb on their engine but I am pretty sure they mentioned an EFI setup that was available. Also Autokrafters has carb intakes for the modulars and might have ignition systems as well. http://www.autokrafters.com/

I had a 239 too. I'm going to put a rebuilt 292 in my 55 F-600 and I'm bolting it to a 90's E4OD (with an adapter) The engine is done...... Balanced and ported, with a 4160 Holly is should run fine.

There's nothing like the sound of a Y-block!



Cheers,

Rick


By the way, If you put a 5.4 in it get yourself a 4R100 to put behind it....then you can use the same ECU to run the engine and trans!

I have a 32v 4.6 installed in my 79 F100. I made up some custom tubular mount brackets for the engine and reused the original c-4 tranny bracket from the truck and am running Sanderson street rod headers. I am in the process of wiring it up now. I am reusing the factory harness from the Lincoln Mark 8 donor vehicle. I have lots to do but so far it is looking pretty good and I cant wait to drive it.

Pictures are in my gallery.

I priced the aftermarket wiring harness option and decided too keep the factory one and graft in my existing lights and some other stuff from the F100. I also purchased a wiring diagram for the Lincoln at www.ahdol.com for under 12.00 in pdf format. If anyone would like a free copy of it sed me a message with your email address and I will forward it. I also have diagrams for 95 Cougar and 97 Dodge 1500. They are all in color and very detailed approx 40-50 pages.

It would help if you can have a complete donor vehicle, this way you will have just about everything you need.

I had to use a 97 Mercury Mountaineer brake booster and master cylinder dur to other exstensive mods I am doing.

If you can make it to the F100 Supernationals in May I am sure there will be a few older trucks like yours with mod motors again this year, the people that have them are a great source of info too.

Glenn,

There is a guy in Mckenzie that has a 4.6 in a Panel truck and had it running. Also same place has a 03 Lightning motor going in a 56 BW. The computer is going to have be flashed but will be using the factory harness. So it can be done.

DUDE!!! You do excellent work!!! I need you to come work for me! (LOL) I'd love to have the wiring diagrams you have? Up til recently I didnt have a very good opinon of 4.6's I worked at a Ford dealer when they first came out in the lincolns and they had alot of problems. A junkyard guy said that in the '98 up models they were alot better with hardly no problems at all. I do some pretty wild stuff too, check out my gallery. I'm considering using a 4.6 in one of my trucks? So YES I'd love to have a copy of your wiring diagrams when you get a chance.

Thanks and again, you do great work!!!!!

Terry, I've been checking out the MODmotor board and it seems the 32 valve lincoln block from 93 until I don't know exactly what year is the most desirable one to have. Might be just the regular 4.6s that had the problem.

Thats good to know Ward. I'll keep it in mind.

Thanks for that bit of information, I have never had one of these motors before, a friend of mine had a 93 LM8 and drove it til it had 187,000 miles before selling it, his worst problem was the bad AC compressor when he sold it.

Hey 427 I hear nothing but good things about the DOHC 4.6's but in the late 80's and early 90's lincolns they had some head problems and bottom end problems. But they say in the mid to later 90's they got the problems fixed. Especially good are the DOHC's:)

93 Mark VIII have the Teksid (spl) block. Which is a stouter aluminum casting.

The 2-valve 4.6's from 94-96 are not as desiralbe because of the heads, they are non PI heads. (Power Improved) These blocks are cast iron with aluminum heads. But the PI heads fit and you can even swap different intakes and get some decent power. There was a recent article in hot rod magazine, where they used a carb and got some good numbers!! They used a non PI motor, swapped to PI heads and carbed it.

Then you have the 4-valves in the Mach1's and Cobras, and the 97-98 Marks, and even the Mauraders.

Go to http://www.karkraft.com/ all of your questions can be answered here.

As for the wire harness issue, get a donor vehicle, pull everything, and then get a wiring diagram for that specific vehicle. You will have to have the ECU reflashed, but any good mustang or even TCCOA.com may be able to point you in the right direction.

Hey It's alot of work but if I can do it so can you!

I got a harness for my 4.6 I put in my 48. I believe after 1995 the ECM had security programed in them. After installing mine the engine ran fine The engine and ECM is from a 1995 T-bird. This a picture of the wiring under the passenger seat. The ECM and A/C module are installed on the left side. Also has diagonistic plug for you or a Ford dealer if needed.http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...R70Wwiring.jpg

I'm working a little backwards as I picked up a Magnacharger blower set up that was designed to fit under the hood of a 1999-2003 F150. The kit comes complete with an intercooler, manifold, fuel rails and blower. Kit is supposed to add up 125HP to a stock 2valve 4.6 motor. Factory ratings are about 280 for the stock truck, but you can increase this with headers and other bolt ons.
New the kits are about $4200, but I got a slightly used one for $1000 complete.
Now I need to get a motor. Found one out of a 2001 yesterday with 32,000 for $1800 complete minus starter and alternator.
Mymerc

Hey mymerc, be ware that some of the truck engines around 00-02 had problems with not having enough threads in the heads. These are the engines with the coil ontop of the plugs. I've heard several folks say things about having the plugs just pull right out of the heads during normal running. They usually destroy the coil in the process. You might want to go to the mod motor board on the FTE and do a search? I've heard that Ford made some better heads later and offered them at a "price" They didnt' admit their flaw and fix them at their own cost.

I do know that the V10's in the early 00's were real bad about this, but maybe the V8's weren't ??

I believe the "not enough threads" problem was with the 5.4 engines. When I had my 2000 5.4 Lightning engine rebuilt one of the mods was to add an insert for the plugs to get more threads to fix the problem.

I knew someone would know more about it, since I've never had one. But I heard it was also a problem with the V10's? Anyone know anything about that one?

I can offer a piece of info on the V10, a coworker of mine from the railroad had put 179,000 miles on the 2005 F350 superduty V10 before the lower end went on it. A local shop put in a OEM replacement in for a little over 5,000.00
These trucks come with heavy steel utility beds and carry plenty of weight from the tools, joint bars, spikes and bolts. The big problem with multiple drivers is you will always have one who does not check the oil and keep up the maintnance which is the key to longevity on any vehicle.

1956 F-100 Panel Delivery project
 

I noticed someone was looking for a 1956 F-100 Panel Delivery, I have one with a 4.6 32v - Kenne Belle supercharger on top and many more mods. Email zoomberger@cox.net for details.
Very good driver in Nebraska.

I am doing a 4.6 4V from a 97 Mark VIII in my 56. Still a long way from wiring, but did talk to The Detail Zone at the Street Rod Nationals a couple of weeks ago. Looks like a very nice set-up with plenty of flexibility. Cost was $895 for the harness set-up and $350 for ECM reprogramming

The F.A.S.T setup looks like it would work as well, but I think it is twice as much as the detail zone. :confused:

Remember, both are only engine wiring. I intend to eliminate the EGR and the second set of O2 sensors, plus of course the PATS. My issue is that while I did get the engine harness and ECM, I did not get the OBD port and harness so I may be forced to go the Detail Zone way. I am told that all the "chip" and handheld tuners can be set to do everthing, but of course that requires the data port.

But that is still in the future, have to get it mounted first. What is being used for mounts? I have seen some on upay that do not look that strong to me. But have also seen the TCI small block Ford mounts that I think might work with the stock Lincoln mounts. Of course I also have a TCI crossmember.

Bill

I am fitting a 2V 4.6 with Manual 5 speed Tremec Trans in my 56. I have already fabbed the mounts etc. But have not yet wired the engine up. I went for the detail zone though and it looks like a decent setup with lots of instructions. They also reprogrammed the ECM to set it up for an aftermarket fuel pump (you need to have this done if not using the original) The standard Ford Fuel pumps used on the Modular engine are in tank variable voltage units that increase or reduce the pressure as needed and has no fuel return. Aftermarket pumps tend to be fixed voltage and therefore require a return line to allow for low feed requirements.
They also removed the anti theft components too to allow the engine to run without needing all of the original loom sensors etc..

Cheers
Lee

I put the 4.6 in my 48 and used the wiring harness from the detail zone because it also controlled the 4R70W electronic transmission. I did not have to have the security program removed from thr ECM because it was a 1995. I think they charge about $200 to have this removed. They may have a harness for the engine only but I am not sure. Give them a call. {thedetailzone.com}

I'm curious to the gas mileage you all might get with this set-up. I'm thinking of a 4.6 in an old car. as my future daily driver.

It looks like it will be a while before I will know abiut gas mileage but will let you know as soon as I can. We have it driveable but still have to get all the body parts back on and painted. I have all the a/c hoses and plan on getting the a/c working in a couple weeks. I hope to get around 25-30 but dont't know. The truck is much lighter than the car and the car was getting about the same.

4.6 in 48 F-1
 

I have most of the wiring and some of the interior cab worked out. I installed a/c but cannot charge it because the binary safety switch is on back order. Just so happens it screws into drier instead of the o-ring type with valve core. Always something to hold you up. As soon as I get some more pictures of the wiring I will post them. http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...8fi/cab069.jpg

I am reconsidering whether this is a good idea or not. I read an article that told about all the differences through years that this motor has been developed. The one's from the Windsor plant and the Romeo plant are not interchangeable. From year to year some changes were made that make parts not interchangeable. Depending on whether the engine came from a specific car or truck makes things not interchangeable. How do I tell what I might be getting for the junk yard? Its bad enough I can't tell the mileage on these motors as most came with digital odometers.

4.6 in 48 F-1
 

There is a lot of variations in these engines. I was lucky to get mine from my nephew who wrecked the front end. Car only had 98000 miles and was well maintained. If you can find a car you would be way ahead. Junk yard engines are quite a gamble. Probably end up rebuilding one. Good luck if you want to go with the 4.6L.http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...8fi/cab066.jpg

Ditto
 

I am planning on doing the same swap. This engine fell into my lap for free so I figure why not. It came out of my 96 Crown vic that I was using as a Derby car.

Thus I have all the wiring harness and everything I need. One problem with the wiring harness though is it was cut in a couple different locations during the derby. It still managed to run after I found that out...out of that bundel of 30 wires you realy only need 4 of them.

Real questions though.

#1: So you are saying you DON'T need the ECU reflashed if you manage to grab the whole harness from the vehicle. If I have to pay 1K for a harness and or 300 to have my ECU reflashed a free engine isn't such a good deal anymore considering the time to wire it up.

#2: Any ideas on a good way to incorporate the fuel pump. I have the fuel pump from the car so it sounds as though I wouldn't need to worry about the voltage variations. But then again I wired the fuel pump straight up for the derby so it always had power and it performed fine. At least for the little while I ran it. I'm wondering if the voltage variation is necessary.

Still curious, as I now have a car to put one into. :-X0A6

I'm sure the mileage would be pretty decent. I don't know what the heavy car got before but I'm sure compared to some of those older V-8's it is a vast improvement.

But back to the more important questions.

Fuel pump and sender and wiring harness.

Also I don't know if all 96's have that anti-theft problem. My key doesn't look all that special...just a plain peice of metal. And I cut all but 4 wires in my harness to the fuse box (none of those from the ECU) and though it ran with a high idle in park (might have been becuase it was cold) it did run and shift just fine on the derby track.

Does anyone see a problem running the fuel pump to a fuse that is only on when the ignition is on? There are no return lines on the engine and tank stock but apperantly they run a voltage regulator and I'm not sure if I want to mess bringing that part of the wiring harness along.


I have yet to PM anyone but I saw a couple of people that have completed this swap.

Just FYI, the 239 is not a Y block, and it weighs 569 Lbs. The 460 weighs 720 Lbs. An FE 390 with an aluminum intake maniford weighs the same as the 239.

Vintage Hot Rods & Classic Cars :: Resources for people restoring hot rods including classifieds, how-to's, more.

Irregardless, youshould put whatever you want in your truck. If no one makes the wiring system you want, they aren't hard to rewire from scratch.

J!

Correction!!!!

In the 54 truck the 239OHV engine is in the 272 - Y block family. So I correct myself and will now go and do push ups.

Apologies,

J!

PS Put a 351 W in it!!!!! So much out there for those engines, you can make it do whatever you want.

Alright, done with that :-hijacked and back to the 4.6.

I will find out if you need the computer reflashed or not for a 1996 Crown Vic Police Interceptor. I don't think you do but we will find out in about a week. The car is all wired up and everything but the plugs for the ECU are hooked up. Want to double and triple check everything as well before I screw something up. That and get a few of the other small things done.

Almost there.

If your key is a plain piece of metal it is not pats. (anti-theft) The fuel pump is supposed to be turned on by the ECM when the key is on or engine running. Technically the ECM turns on the fuel pump relay which powers up the pump. A '96 is a return-style fuel system. The returnless did not come out untill '99 or so. The returnless fuel systems vary pump voltage to keep up with fuel demands. Return style uses a fuel pressure regulator (vacuum operated) and returns unused fuel to the tank. Hooking it up to fused key on power would probably work though.

I've been a Ford Dealership technician for going on 14 years now and I have got to say these 4.6s are excellent engines. There are a few minor issues but these motors are tough and hold together. If you really want to make one run get an older pre-'98 engine and put '99 up heads on it. You get the benefit of the PI heads and a compression boost from the smaller dish of the older style engine. These don't have very much horsepower (even the Mustangs have 215hp from 96-98 and 260hp from 99-04) but they are held back by restrictive exhaust and wimpy programs.

I too am thinking about this swap. I have a 1997 Thunderbird with a 4.6/4R70W combo I would use. The 96-97 Bird engine is very clean looking and the harness is fairly simple and it does not have PATS. If I do it I will install PI heads, headers and a cold air kit and call it good. I will use the stock Ford ECM but have the local dyno shop burn me a custom tune for max power on the cheap gas.

Thank you, that was an excellent and very useful post. Makes me feel a lot more confident. I do just have a the plain metal key so looks as though I will not have any problems. Keeping my fingers crossed.

I do have the return style fuel system and did run it back to my fuel cell. I am running a high pressure fuel pump and I will look into regulators soon I guess.

I believe in the future I will tear into the engine and put some headers on it as well as the PI heads. I have 2.5" exhaust and should have a cold air intake on the way soon. But I beleive for now this will keep me happy. It will be nice to just turn the key and have the thing start right up and purr along...not to mention 215 HP is quite a bit for this light truck. It isn't exactly aerodynamic but I'm hoping to be able to afford to drive to some cruises with 20+MPG.

The transmission only has about 5 minutes of derby time on a rebuild so I should be fine there.

I should be able to make any changes to the ECM via the OBDII port correct?

Also I'm debating putting on the check engine light for now (making a little retro bulb near my light swtich) as I'm sure after this swap and all the changes I am going to have quite a few codes thrown.

The fuel pressure regulator is on the fuel rail right before the fuel return line. The T-bird /Cougar (and the Crown Vic I'm pretty sure) are rated at 205hp however the only difference between those and the Mustangs are the tune, the exhaust and the upper intake elbow.

The '96 and '97 Tbird/Cougar has an almost identical intake elbow. Also, make sure the intake you use has an aluminum coolant crossover in the front. The older ones are/were really bad about cracking in that area. To identify this you will see a plastic intake with an aluminum section in the front where the coolant crosses over. If you have a fully plastic intake don't sweat it just replace it! They are $300-$350 and are available at O'reillys, etc.

Another thing is these engines really respond to intake and exhaust improvements. The upper intake elbow is known to be very restrictive. (even on Mustangs) The exhaust kinda stinks too. (no pun intended) If anyone doubts the real-world power these things have just hop in a heavy '92-up Crown Vic and step into it. For what they are they run pretty good. Remember the old 5.0 Mustangs from the late 80s and early 90s put out 225hp.

You can make changes through the OBDII port but the factory computer is not set up to recieve custom changes. You will need software/equipment that can rewrite the engine management software to your specs.

I'm the originator of this thread. I've still not choose an engine. I thought about going the 5.0 route. It is more tried and true (ie. parts for the swap). I had a chance to get a 5.0 HO out of a 97 Cougar. I think it only had 93,000 miles. I've heard that at some point in time that carmakers demanded tighter tolerances on engine components and now we can expect 200K+. I just don't know when that started. I'm sure the 4.6 generation will last that long if taken care of.

Ford has been tormenting rodders for about 40 years now with these practices. All the accessory bracket fitment issues, this bellhousing won't fit that motor, etc, etc ...

I'm glad I ran a Ford engine, but you'll often spend an unplanned fortune if you aren't careful. You are smart to do your research. Even free isn't always economical by the time you actually hit the ignition switch.

4.6 Wiring
 

This is how our Detail Zone wiring looked after finishing up. It is located under the passenger seat and you can easily access the OBDll port. It was fairly easy but took some time and patience. http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...i/100_0037.jpg