Rear Shocks on 2002 F150
 

What is the degree of difficulty in replacing the rear shocks on a 2WD 2002 F150?

Doesn't take much, but the top nuts can be a PITA to get off depending on what kind of shock you have. They usually rust on and just want to twist the whole upper shaft and housing. Ford did put some access holes to reach the nut. I usually have to cut mine out.

Thanks! I noticed this morning that the rear driver side was bottoming on some bad spots in the road. Any suggestions on what and wear to buy?

I just replaced mine. It is a 4x4, but the stockers came off pretty easy. You need a 18mm socket, ratchet and a 18mm wrench. They are kinda in a tight spot under the bed, but accessable. I used Rancho RS5000's because they are a little stiffer than stock.

I had Rancho 5000's previously and will not go back, they were the absolute worst shock I have ever had to take off. They only give you a little square head at the top of the shaft, which you cannot get to to put vice rips or a wrench on. these are the ones I was eluding to cutting off. I went with NAPA's Sensatracs which have a full hood welded to the top shaft that will be easy to grab a hold of when I need to replace them. the sensatracs also ride better than the Rancho's ever did and cost nearly half as much.

took off the rear driver's side shock........noticed that the bed side of the shock is not bolted to the frame, but just sits in a hole in a shoulder plate. i'm able to take a hold of the shock and move it slightly side to side. to it off and compressed it a few times...put it back in. is the shock supposed to be able to move slightly as described above? nothing else under the truck is loose that would be causing the clunking noise that i'm hearing.

Any ideas????

It should be bolted down with rubber on the bottom and on top of the plate as well as a washer above the top rubber and below the bottom rubber.

I just replaced all 4 shocks on my 2000 4x4. after 127000 miles, the stock shocks were in pretty bad shape. I went with gabriel ultra gas shocks from autozone. I wouldn't recommend them. I mean 4-wheel drive fords are gonna ride rough..but these new shocks are just torture. oh and for me, replacing the front shocks was a breeze compared to the rear. the only thing is that it's better to take off the front wheels for easier access.

i went with the BILSTEIN 5100s out back (a nice shock with a beefier piston)...and i couldnt be happier...theyre very nice on road - and even better off.

i beat on em regularly...and i think they like it.

drj

i bought the monroe sensatrac.....driver side was a breeze to change, OEM didn't have nut at top, the shock end the top end in-place by piston only. the passenger side was a different story. i had to hold the top half of the shock from rotating as i gorilla-ed the nut off the top end. all-in-all not a bad experience, rides much better. will do fronts this weekend, but i'll make sure to take a wire brush to the stem to remove rust and build-up before trying to remove nut...i'm sure a little wd-40 to loosen some of that stuff wouldn't hurt either.

thanks for all your replies!!

2002 2wd f150
 

Just replaced the stock rear shock absorbers and at first was a pain but after using a short 18 mm socket and an 18mm wrench had no problems.

At the top of the shock on the bottom rubber area use the 18mm wrnech and socket the top. I did not use the hole the put because it is to small. Just simply put over top and crank away. should only take about 15 minutes or so. Hope this helps will post on the fron shocks on what made it easy.

I put Bilsteins on my 2001 2wd, I'm not impressed with these shocks. The Dust Covers on the rear shocks are plastic not metal like the Ford Shocks. The Right Boot had pulled off one of the shocks, in the box. Ended up super gluing it, so it would stay in place. :-arrgh The Ford Shocks had welded on nuts at the top to keep the shock from spinning while wrenching it. (Came in Handy on the Front Shocks) The Bilsteins have a T 40 Torx on the threaded rod, I hope I never have to remove them! Also the compression band is not split so it has to be cut before installing the shock, then you have to manually push the new shock in or jack up on the frame. BTW I used a small pipe wrench to turn the old shocks dust covers and jambed the wrench at the top against the frame.

I would Recommend the OEM Ford Shocks, go to a "Ford Parts on-line," to get a deal on them.

I put Monroe matics all the way around on my '99 F150 rides like a dream.

I couldn't disagree more. I also recently installed Bilsteins (HD) on my '01 SuperCrew 2WD. Great product.

The allen head didn't post an issue for me, just grounded out the 6mm allen wrench against something and ran the nuts on with a gear-wrench. Very painless.

Dust covers are just that, dust covers. I see no advantage to metal covers, Bilstein uses a metal piece which is interference fit with the covers that supports it. Since all it does is hang in place and provide some protection for the shock rod it is more than acceptable.

What's important is the shock itself, and IMO the quality of Bilstein easily surpasses the OEM Motorcraft pieces. Ford seems to agree, since they bothered to put Bilsteins on Lightnings. I noticed a marked improvement in ride quality, and a level of suspension composure this truck simply has never had even when new.

I bet I can beat anybody in rear shock replacement.

Holes in the bed over the top nuts makes the job a cake walk.

I need to replace shocks during this week along with brake pads and

front anti sway bar bushings from Energy Suspension.

It's a lot easier to cut just below the top nut with a sawzall or a die grinder. I replaced mine with KYB Monomax (great improvement over the stock Ranchos).

(Mickey Mouse smiley here)

I'll still beat you on the reinstall!

How many miles on the KYBs? It's good to get input on all

The different shocks available, sometimes the more expensive

Shocks are not the best. Yet, shock performance is subjective.

That's cute, that will go great with my hello kitty stickers

On my rear window. Thanks.

KYB Monomax, the only way to go. I've had mine on for 8 yrs. (F150 4x4) and they still work perfectly, what a great ride and handling to. Ranchos suck, replaced two sets of them and called it quits, junk!

Which Ranchos? RS 5000s?

I would like to try adjustable shocks on a truck, but discovering that they were bad would not be a good

thing. It is amazing how expensive shocks can be, the last two used Explorers we bought still had the OEM shocks installed.

Yes, they were horse sh$&. Keep in mind that good shocks like the KYB Monomax will cost more upfront but will save you money in the long run by not having to replace them over and over. Buy them, you won't be disappointed!

KYB Monomax: Not worth the price
 

I have been running the KYB Monomax shocks since last Spring (2012), and I really don't like them. They are only marginally better than the stock units at low to moderate speeds where the truck feels a bit tighter over small road bumps, but about the same as OEM at higher speeds. They are decent on bad fire roads, and jeep trails.
However, they did nothing to improve the ride/handling over road undulations. I get repeated side to side sway in sharp turns on roads with uneven surfaces, and worse, I get front end float on straight roads when I hit undulations, especially when towing (even light and well balanced loads), almost scary at highway speeds. The OEM shocks were about the same at the end of their life.
The upside? I like the red color and how they look under the truck...

Normally, I run Bilsteins or Koni, but I thought I'd try the Monomax shocks and I really wish I didn't.

I have Bilsteins in my Porsche, F350, and had them in my Ranger, and they have matched my expectations in each case.

That's my 2 cents....

IMHO an angle grinder with a metal cutting wheel is a basic tool for any DIY'er. I don't know how I got to the age of 50 without using one. It would have saved so much time and busted knuckles. :-arrgh
If you are not reusing an item, CUT IT OUT!

On my 98', they made an astonishing difference in ride quality and handling. Everyone who ride in the truck comments on how great it rides. No shock I've ever owned has lasted anywhere near this long. I love them and recommend them to others all the time with great return info.

Once I have some extra cash, I'm gong to replace the KYB's with Bilstein's. It will be interesting to see how the ride changes, or not....

I was going to suggest using a reciprocating saw with a new steel cutting

Blade, but this idea might be too MICKEY MOUSE for some people.

I have resorted to removing 14 year old rusted OEM shocks of an Explorer

With a Tigersaw. The Tigersaw could actually fit into places a grinder could

Not fit.


I have new Bilsteins ready to be installed on my F150, I will let you guys

Know my impressions after a couple of days with the new shocks.

My brother went through 3 sets of Bilsteins in short order, just regular town and hwy. driving. They all bleed oil. No thanks.

anyone?!............................http://www.healthdu.com/7.jpghttp://www.healthdu.com/8.jpghttp://www.healthdu.com/9.jpghttp://www.healthdu.com/1.jpg

"It's a lot easier to cut just below the top nut with a sawzall or a die grinder." I believe a sawzall is the same as a reciprocating saw and yes, cutting holes in a perfectly good truck body to get at 2 nuts is not something I would ever do or recommend.

The KYB's were a great change for my truck. Ride and handling is 100% better than the stock Ranchos.

A Sawzall is a brand name, like Tigersaw, a reciprocating saw is the name of

The tool regardless of the brand.

I am glad you disagree with my approach, I'll stand behind it as you will yours.

There could have been a better design approach from the factory with our

Trucks, but it is what it is. I am glad the designers decided to move the

shocks outboard on the generation of truck after 2003/(some04).

That I know anyone can agree with.

I replaced the factory shocks on my 2002 F-150 Super Cab at 5,000 miles They were horrible from the beginning. I replaced them with Rancho RSX's. 10 years later they still work really good. The same as they did 10 years ago. A great improvement over the OEM's. They look horrible with NJ rust but still function ok.

Whimsey

How is the bottom of your radiator support looking? Mine has gone missing completely, while there is little rust elsewhere.

I changed the oil the end of October and didn't notice anything unusual while under there. But I wasn't paying particular attention to it. I'll look again. Thanks for the heads up!

Whimsey

Your brother must have had some seriously bad luck, because I've seen some really high mileage and abused Bilsteins and they've all been leak free. I'd put Bilstein quality up against just about anyone, and definitely up against KYB.