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‘93 f150 4x4 5.8l missing out/no power
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...1d9a74385.jpeg So about 2-3 weeks ago I bought a ‘93 f150 4x4 5.8l. Drove it back home and about a week later the transmission took a dump. Found a good used trans and went and picked it up and got it all buttoned up. I get in the truck to go test it out. I started it and noticed it was idling funny and just doesn’t sound the same . Had a slight misfire now and then and when I gave it fuel it’s like it just didn’t have the power to even rev up much more than maybe 4000 rpms (guesstimate as there’s no gauge). Gave it probably half throttle and it backfired once. Me being the impatient person I am said screw it and was gonna drive it down to my buddies house from his grandpas barn (1/2 mile) where we were working on it to make sure it would at least shift through the gears. Well I start it up, put it in reverse to back it out and the truck bogged then died. Repeated this about 3 or 4 times with no change. Put it in drive and it didn’t stall. So I said whatever and pushed it outside to drive it down to my buddies house. Put in it drive and it didn’t want to move. Full throttle and the truck barely inches forward. It is not revving up like the torque converter is slipping. It sounds as if I’m holding my foot on the break and it’s not letting the truck go. The truck has fought me every step of the way and I’m getting frustrated and need help getting on the right track to get it running right. In the midst of swapping the transmissions I somehow managers to break the little chrome piece around the ignition where you’d turn your key. It sort of just spins around the ignition making it a pain to get the key in and out, unsure if this could possibly play a factor somewhere. The truck was running with no issues before I swapped the transmission. Sat for roughly 2 weeks without being started. From looking at it it looks like the truck has new plugs and wires, distributor, alternator and, a couple other little things. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. |
I'd start with the basics. Check codes, check fuel pressure, check timing too.
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How do I go about pulling the codes? |
You can get a code reader at any of the parts stores for around $20 or so. Also, you can check them using a paper clip:
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So I pulled the codes this evening using the paper clip method. I got roughly 6 different transmission codes, but am gonna assume these are stored in the computer from the previous transmission. I only got a couple codes that had to with the motor. These codes were: 114- Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor out of range 116- Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) out of range 332- EGR valve didn’t open/respond 538- didn’t perform “goose test” (I forgot to do this after going through the other motions with key on, engine running) So, assuming that not performing the “goose test” didn’t affect the egr valve opening/responding, my problems are most likely pointing towards the egr valve and IAT sensor, correct? I also came to find out there is no air filter in the truck, so will be getting one as soon as possible. I appreciate the help thus far! |
I would clear the codes, first. Do this by disconnecting the battery for 20 mins or so and reconnect the battery. Then check for the KOEO (Key On Engine Off) codes. These codes have to be fixed before moving on to the CM (Continuous Memory) and KOER (Key On Engine Running). Fixing the KOEO codes a lot of times will clear the CM and KOER codes, this is why you have to go in order. Make sense? I wouldn't go replacing those sensors just yet.
As for the transmission swap, did you pull the engine and tranny as one complete assembly, or did you only drop the tranny? Is this an automatic or manual transmission? If an auto, are you positive you swapped an E4OD for another E4OD and this replacement tranny was operational? Did you check the fluid level with the engine fully warmed up, idling in Park? These tranny's take a lot of fluid, around 15 quarts I believe for that monster. I'm just trying to familiarize myself and others with your situation to help you. It sounds like it could be a timing issue also. Does it smell rich? Do you have a timing light? It needs to be around 10 degrees. |
Also, make sure you check the codes with engine at normal operating temperature.
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It’s an E4od. Yes I’m sure that it’s the right one as I had already messed up and bought the AOD before this one lol, also I pulled transmission sepesrate from the motor. I let engine warm up for about 10-15 minutes. Shut itt off. Waited 10 seconds, started it, and checked the codes. I checked fluid after it was warm and it was right on the money. It doesn’t really smell rich at all, no black smoke or anything coming from exhaust. The Trans goes into gear just fine, it seems when I give it more than maybe a 1/8th - 1/4 throttle is when it wants to bog out and die. Also, last night it was not dying when I put it into reverse, went into drive and reverse with no issues, just too much fuel and she’d cut out! I can get ahold of a timing light and check that sometime soon. As for clearing the codes, the battery hasn’t had enough juice to hold a charge since before I pulled the transmission. I’ve had negative cable off the whole time while swapping the trans, and the battery was completely dead these last couple days that I’ve started the truck. so should the codes have already cleared themselves? |
Yes, codes would have cleared if the battery was disconnected this whole time. But what we need are the KOEO and Continuous Memory codes. Once those are cleared, we can worry about the KOER codes.
I looked at your previous posts, is this the same problem that you had before swapping transmissions? Did you pull the PCM and check for leaking diodes? The neutral safety switch could also be suspect. The timing is probably ok, but wouldn't hurt to check. I'd also check fuel while you're at it. But get those codes with the engine off. That should reveal more. Good luck. |
No, these were not the same issues I was having before swapping transmissions. Since the codes would have cleared before I checked them, do I need to do it again? Maybe I’m missing something here? I have all of the codes written down on paper for which codes were on the KOEO test and the ones that were pulled with the KOER test. I can post them all if needed? |
The KOEO test gave me codes 114. 116, 621, 624, 626, 629, 638, 654. All besides codes 114 and 116, are transmission codes so that worries me a little but the Trans came out of a running and driving bronco so I find it sort of hard to believe it would have THAT many issues. I’m almost positive what I am having is motor issues, I can get a video sometime if that would help better. |
I did have to use the NSS off of the old transmission as the plugs were a little different from the new one being from a bronco. . |
Code 654, was the transmission in "Park" when you performed the KOEO test?
What year Bronco did the new tranny come out of? I would double check all the plugs on transmission if you haven't already. Maybe something didn't seat in all the way? I think it's doubtful codes 114 and 116 would cause your issues. Were you able to check the timing and perform a fuel pressure test? EDIT- Which torque converter did you use? |
No, the shift linkage is messed up and we had it in neutral when I pulled the codes. Transmission came out of a ‘94. Used the torque converter that came with it. Everything looks exactly the same. |
I wouldn't think checking for codes in Neutral would throw all those codes with the exception of 654, but I'm not certain.
I'm having a little trouble understanding exactly what your truck is or isn't doing. It's engaging in D and R but won't move more than a few inches, is that right? I'm wondering if the shift linkage is causing these issues somehow. What's wrong with it exactly and was it "messed up" prior to the tranny swap? Just to completely rule out the new tranny, but you are certain, with first-hand knowledge that it was working prior to the swap? I only ask because many years ago I bought a transmission from a "family" member who told me it was a working transmission only to find out that it was completely shot, it needed a full rebuild. All I had was somebody else's word. Hopefully, this isn't the case with you, but people aren't always honest. Does anybody else have anything to add? |
Have you tried putting it into 4x4 to see if it allows Drive to work?
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So the shift tube inside of the steering column that runs down and connects to the shift linakage towards the firewall snapped. Making me unable to use the gear shifter. I have both ends of shift linkage disconnected so wouldn’t believe that’s the issue. I’m having my buddy shift the truck by hand from down under the truck on the side of the transmission. I can put the truck into reverse and it goes into gear as it should and begins to roll backwards. Once I give it more than say an 1/8th of fuel it’s like the motor is bogging out and dying. Same way if I were to put it in drive. I’m almost deadset that it’s a motor issue. But with the transmission codes I’ve gotten I’m a little weary now but it just doesn’t sound like a transmission issue to me. I guess you could say all I have is someone’s word if the transmission was good, I’ve seen the bronco drive in the past, but not in the last 6 months or so that the motor went bad in it. (The reason he was selling). I can try to get a video tomorrow of what it is doing and see if that clears whats going on up a bit. edit: I have not tried putting it in 4wd. Caps fell of the front U-joint when I pulled the front driveshaft at the start and needle bearings went everywhere. Haven’t replaced it yet as I’ve been more focused on getting this transmission in and now the motor issues solved. |
Yeah, it's probably not the transmission, even though those codes sound scary. The shift linkage can probably be ruled out.
Did you check all the fuses in the Power Box? Are you still hearing a miss at idle? Still sounds like timing to me, check that tomorrow if you can. Although not sure how it would be if you didn't mess with the distributor any. You've checked all your plug wires for proper routing? I'm stumped too, just throwing things out there in case something might have gotten overlooked. I feel your pain when it comes to these trucks. Mine seems to fight me EVERY step of the way on everything I do. Hang in there, you'll find the problem eventually. Yes, a video can only help! |
Yes I do hear a miss at idle. I haven’t messed with the distributor at all, I haven’t checked plug wires for proper routing since I didn’t have them off, but I will double check it all tomorrow, and also get a video. I appreciate the help so far! Edit: Sorry for any confusion explaining things, trying the best I can to be clear |
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...cab10d14ce.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...966224bf5c.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...f68210ecc4.jpg Is this the coolant temp sensor? Found it just hanging down behind alternator |
That looks like the sensor that plugs into the top rear of the AC compressor line.
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I think you're confusing the AC compressor for the alternator. The AC compressor is on the drivers side, alternator on the passengers.
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You’re right, sorry about that. It screws onto where ever it goes, I will check the ac line and see if I can find where it goes when I get off work |
My truck is an older 5.0, but that looks a lot like the Power Steering pressure switch on mine.
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If that was the case, there would be no power steering right? |
Nope - it's just a signal to the ECU that there's a load on the PS pump. Mine throws DTC's (failed switch or connector) and I have no issue w/power steering, etc.
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Gotcha, so not much to fret over for now? |
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