Power Stop brakes
 

Has anyone used Power Stop brakes, I'm thinking of installing their Extreme pads with drilled and slotted rotors.

Denny

I never have good luck with anything other than motorcraft for my super duties

Never used Power Stop. I have used several other brands of pads and slotted rotors though. If the rotors are dimpled and slotted ok. For trucks avoid rotors with holes drilled through the rotor.

Drilled and slotted means you're losing braking surface too. Not my cup of tea.

But I've never done better than OEM brakes on my trucks. YMMV.

My OEM front pads lasted a grand total of 28K, I'm using a fleet NAPA pad now and they stop alright but the noise is something I can't live with and last time I priced Motocraft front rotors for a 2WD DRW they were $350 each.

Denny

Check out rockauto for rotors. They have motorcraft and power stop.

YES on rockauto.. and motorcraft..

drilled and or slotted are great.. for performance cars.. and light trucks.

but for weight.. mass is king... my opinion.

ever see a brake pad friction testing machine....

this is a small one.

Yes I will use Rock Auto :-X04

Some of you aren't looking at the right front rotors, I have a 13 RWD DRW so the options are reduced with Motocraft $182 each and the Power Stop $142 but the only thing Power Stop shows is drilled and slotted.

Denny

I rechecked and and Power Stop does have a economy for $132

cheap and best price is not the same thing.....

2 things I never go cheap on...

Brakes and Brakes..
:)

old saying.

if it does not start.. its an inconvenience..

if is does not Stop.. its a disaster...
:)

What do you think is best, ceramic or semi-metallic.

I know the high end metallic ones on my truck fronts now are destroying the rotors but I have strong brakes.

Denny

good ceramic's.. they will handle the heat... my opinion.

metallics do harm rotors... unless you can find the bronze ones. if still available.

Used Power Stop brakes and rotors on my old 99 Superduty diesel.. worked great for me..

I will have to make my decision in May when we are home and I get it up on jack stands and remove all the wheels, I can't see the the rear rotors with the wheels on to see what shape they are in. If the rear rotors are in good shape I will just put pads on them but the fronts will get new rotors and pads but until then I'm going to keep on checking.

Denny

Good Plan.

I don't use the DRW when we are home because I have a 03 F150 to use so it can site on stands until I figure out what I want to do and get parts from Rock Auto.

Denny

Let me add that while not on an HD truck, I have had great results with Napa Premium rotors on a light duty truck (about $80 each, but were the most expensive available in the Napa line. Obviously will be more expensive for a Super Duty, if available). Way better than the OEM rotors they replaced.

I would use the cheaper brake pads so that they wear instead of the rotor. But buy some wheel cleaner while your at it.

I'm looking at the Power Stop severe duty truck/tow drilled/slotted kit for my 13 also.

Lots of people here saying rotors are cheap do not have a 13 or newer truck with the larger brakes. They are different from the 11-12 trucks.

Or they don't have a RWD DRW with that massive hub on the front rotor.

At this point I'm leaning the same way you are for the fronts anyway, the backs depend on what they look like but I'm going to keep on looking :-X04

Denny

I just did a four wheel brake job on my 2011 F250 cc sb 4X4. I used Bendix fleet pads and Raybestos 300 nondirectional slotted rotors. All I can say is it stops way better than the stock Motorcraft brakes and rotors that came off it. I just got back from the desert and went over the 58 out of Bakersfield through Tehachapi mountains with truck and toy hauler just shy of 20,000lbs. and the brakes were flawless. The truck and trailer stopped better than I have ever had it stop. I am very pleased.
Mark

I had Power Stop drilled and slotted rotors with Hawk ceramic pads on my 2013 F150. They were still going strong with 70K miles on them when I traded it in. They improved the braking power year round in all kinds of weather conditions. Only towed about 10% of the time with either a 7K or 4K load.

Not a fan of their pads...two sets, standard and the Z36 (or whatever), wore quickly and filled the slots right up, pretty much the material welded right in there.
PowerStop didn't care as I installed them myself and therefor there is no warranty...or customer service for that matter.

This




Why is this in the 6.2 forum?

Thanks for the input guys.

Denny

I have used the powerstop on several vehicles and they have been outstanding.got them at rockauto.

Guess it depends on the QA that day.

Another option I'm looking at are Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads, i installed them all the way around on my last DRW and they stopped great (way better than OEM) and were still on the truck after 60K miles when I traded but I'm having a hard time finding them for a 2013 DRW RWD.

Denny

Another option I'm looking at are Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads, i installed them all the way around on my last DRW and they stopped great (way better than OEM) and were still on the truck after 60K miles when I traded but I'm having a hard time finding them for a 2013 DRW RWD.<br /><br />Denny

With my in investigation into slotted rotors I found this and many others like it.
It sounds like unless you in stall them in the right direction they will not clean or cool properly, Power Stop are sold in rights or lefts so they are directional for cooling and self cleaning.
Slotted directional rotors

Denny

I'm not a fan of ceramic brake pads, while they don't fade or ware I have found that they are so hard that they are noisey and it takes more pedal pressure to get them to stop as well as non ceramics.
As far as rotors go I won't run drilled rotors on a towing application as the tend to crack. Slotted rotors are fine except when they need servicing it is harder to turn them, but it can be done. I chose the Raybestos 300 series non directional slotted roters and so far they are my favorite to date. Being a fleet mechanic for 30 years I've changed and turned a lot of rotors.
Mark

Raybestos doesn't make a 300 for a DRW RWD just there premium standard rotor.

Denny

Yep, sorry you are correct. I didn't realize that. I'm not sure why they don't maybe not enough numbers to make it worth their while. You might check Delco they had the same rotors, probably made by Raybestos though, but you never know.
Mark

I HAD the Raybestos R300 on my truck in the front and rear. They were not on too long, shortest time I ever had a set of rotors on my truck. They vibrated under braking and eventually heat checked. It was not a severe vibration but you could tell the slot location was not engineered right and IMO there was too many of the them for the rotor surface area. Better off avoiding them IMO.

The Raybestos Advanced Technology pads are rather good. Hawk Super Duty pads are pretty good in my experience. Running the EBC Yellow Stuff on mine now and the front ones will be gone soon. I thought I could handle the dust from the Yellow Stuff pads but it is to the point they are starting to screw up my wheels from the hard to remove dust.

Well that's not good, can we get a little background if you would be so kind. What do you tow and how much does it weigh? How much weight do you haul? Is your truck stock? What are the wheel/ tires sizes? Do you drive in mountains a lot?
Thanks for your help.
Mark

They were on my 04'. Empty weight with me in it is at 7k lbs. Most the truck pulled was grossing around 14,600lbs combined (truck, trailer, load) that was in the mountains but only once a year. Trailer has electric brakes on both axles so it is not like the truck brakes were over worked. Even my 3k lb boat combo has brakes on the trailer. My other boat is under 1k lbs and you really don't know its back there. Obviously the front rotors are a little smaller on the 04' vs the 11'up trucks. Stock 16" wheels with 33" tires. Most of the driving was empty at around 7k lbs mostly back roads on fairly flat ground. I may be harder on brakes than the average truck owner with how the truck gets used but I did not have issues with other rotors like I did with the R300 nor did my dad with his truck which is basically the same and takes the same rotors and pads The rotors just had a weird feel to them under braking which I am sure was caused by the front rotors only. I feel the grooves in the rotor were too plentiful and too close together. I would probably still have the R-300 rotors on the rear if a caliper did not go bad and require new brakes on the rear. The rears did not exhibit any issues I could see otherwise.

Okay well I'm already committed so we will see. I already have around 1000 miles on them and the only thing I notice is how much better it stops. Even pulling my 11,800 pound toy hauler they have been flawless and stop with a lot less pedal pressure. I read all the reviews I could find on these rotors and none mentioned cracking. I'm not saying it didn't happen obviously you had some severe issues with them. I wonder why just the fronts cracked and why you could feel the slots.
Time will tell.
Mark

What I have found is the front brakes do so much of the stopping that they will tend to heat up and crack before the rears, that happened on my 2000 DRW and a little on my 2013 DRW so far.

So far my plans are to use Preformace Friction pads and new rotors on the front, I'm still leaning towards the Power Stop slotted.

I've used Preformace Friction before with great success in my last DRW. Great stopping power and no fad under heavy mountain braking.

Denny

stay away from Ceramic on your SD.. stick with the semi-metallic.. Ceramics are good for light vehicles.. but on the HD stuff especially with pulling that RV theyll give out on you.. make you feel like you have no brakes at all.. i had Ceramics on mine for about 1000 miles.. after 4 almost accidents from the lack of grip (i seriously thought something else was wrong in the system) on an empty truck, i switched back to Semi-metalics on my 350 and not looked back.. when i was telling the guy at the parts counter my ordeal to buy what i had on the truck prior he said that was why they specifically recommended AGAINST ceramics on HD vehicles..

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...9765e840af.jpg
I'm home and the truck is on jack stands, when I removed the RF pads this is what I found. The shiny spots look like they are solid steel, it appears that the bonding material and the metallic wasn't mixed properly. It's no wonder they squealed :-arrgh The good thing is the rotor has only .001 run out and I'm going to put new Preformace Friction Carbon Metalic pads on the old rotors and hopes for the best, I'm also using a DA with coarse paper to break any glaze on the rotor surface.
Denny

We are back on the road again with the Preformace Friction Carbon Metalic pads and they are well seated in and the rotors cleaned up nicely :D. I have so much more stopping power with less pressure applied to the pedal that I had to set the gain up on the controller to stop my hitch from clunking when braking caused by not enough trailer braking. They are also silent :-X04
Denny