Best oil for a 460
 

I'm looking for suggestions on what brand and weight of engine oil would be best for my new to me F250 460. I'm sure this will be like opening a can of worms. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!!!

I run 10W30 year round, Valvoline if I can get it... If not I go with Quaker state...

If It got colder here in the winter I'd go 5W30, but that's not the case

Other than that, change it regularly... Oh and don't cheap out on the filter... Get a WIX Or Motorcraft, and steer clear of the Fram filters...

10-4 on the Fram's, I quit using them a while ago. I try to use Motorcraft but sometimes I end up with Purolator's.

Run rotella 15-40 with motorcraft filters.

My 89 and 90 both get 15W-40 and it's worked good for many years.

I use either Mobil 1 high mileage 5w30 or Castrol high mileage 5w30. Always Purolator Pure One filters.

WOW TWO 15W40 recommendations without nearly enough info.:-X15

Not enough info here to give a specific recommendation to the OP, year, miles, oil pressure, weather, budget, usage, change interval, etc.

A few tips;

- Unless there is a burning/leaking issue synthetic is almost always A LOT better.

- Unless you don't want to change it often(less then say 7500 miles) AND are using conventional oil then a lower first number is always better.

- The second number is the most complicated choice. As above if conventional and not changed often then higher(40) might be better in some cases. Otherwise stay with 30 unless there is a hot idle oil pressure or other issue(knocking).

- Zinc, there used to be a fair amount of a zinc based additive in motor oils. The EPA has mandated it's reduction in oils. Your engine has a flat tapped camshaft, this means you need that zinc additive for your cam to live. Diesel oils often have more zinc, "racing" oils often do, or buy an additive.

- Types of synthetics, not all synthetics use the same type of base stock. This is a controversial topic among oil companies, most won't come out and say what there base stock is. Only 2 we can be sure of are a high end base stock, amsoil and redline.

- Filters, drain back valve is a good thing, too much filter(low micron) is bad if you have oil pressure issues or it takes a long time to build oil pressure on start ups. What oil you use effects what filter is better.


Me, I use Rotella T6 5W40 and fram filters in my 460, I find it's the best compromise, why;
- Synthetic, likely a class 3 but a 5 would be more expensive
- The 5 is better then 10, 0 would be better but is more expensive
- The 40 is cause my engine is worn out, my oil pressure in gear idling when hot was too low with a 30.
- It's a diesel oil with more zinc(this is up for debate with rotella now)
- It's cost effective
Fram:
- I dig the grip
- Has drain back valve
- I have no need for a high level of filtering
- Buy them on sale.

The op asked for suggestions, thats what he got. And like ya said there was not much info provided. Its also very tedious typing much out on this phone. Op, you could check in the oil forum, sure its been discussed many times. Also bobistheoilguym.com is a good source of info.

So what are you saying, that it's better to give bad advice then no advice?

The only disagreement I have is using a Fram. They are lethal and catastrophic to engines. After seeing first hand splitting at the seam and blowing oil everywhere not to mention countless videos and forums mentioning their failures, I won't use them period.

I use 10w-30 Castrol GTX high mileage part synthetic. And my Dad has always used Fram filters in all his vehicles. So I guess that's why I always used Fram, maybe we're just lucky since we've never had a problem with them.

Sorry guy's, the pickup has 100k. It seems to have good oil pressure according to the factory 91 ford gauge. I use Valvoline in my gas engines and Rotella in my diesel pickup. I've never used any synthetics, just 10-30 or 10-40. I'm just wondering if this is good enough oil or if there is something better. I just purchased this pickup and don't know what previous owner was using, and not real sure if it mattered.

Thanks for the input!! Is there any more?

A fishing hook for that "can of worms" you opened!!

Lol! I would get a REAL oil psi gauge installed and check cold startup psi, cold idle psi and hot idle psi. I'd use dino for the beast and stay within 5-10 w-30 unless you want to spend the extra and just log oil consumption.

Just saying he got what he asked for. Im not typing up a half page answer on my phone. Especially since there is no real right or wrong answer, only lots of opinions. Sorta like the gas vs diesel threads or 6 vs 7.3

Motorcraft 10w-40
I've tried synthetic blend oil, and it goes right through, about a quart every 400 miles.
Regular dinosaur oil, maybe a quart every 2000 miles.

Yes even if you are cheap synthetic is worth the money, you pay more for the oil but it lasts a lot longer, saves fuel and makes your engine last longer saving money in the long run.

My suggestion buy a good 5W30 blend and see how that goes, does it leak, noise, oil pressure, etc. If all is good then after 3000-5000 miles(when black) swap to 0W30 Mobil1. If all continues to go well use it from then on at a 5000-7500 interval(also when black).

I say Mobil1 cause it's a pretty darn good synthetic for a good deal and of course they make a 0W30, few others do. While not the absolute best oil it's a great bang for the buck cause you can often get a very good deal on it. The major stores often do a 5qts of Mobil1 plus a Mobil1 filter for $30 deal.

At each oil change add a zinc additive, look for a Zinc or ZDDP replacement.

Thanks for the info BruteFord. I've never heard of adding a zinc additive, good to know. The Government could F_ _ k up a paper cup!

Not trying to hijack, but what zinc additive is best? My 96 w/460 has 96k, I bought it with 66k 8 yrs ago, always used synthetic Mobil1, most of the time anyway, and never added zinc. Guess I will wipe a lobe on the cam someday.

X2 on the Rotella T6, I run it in my WRX (high output turbo 4 cyl) and it's done great. My UOA from Blackstone suggested I go from the suggested 3,750 mi interval to 6500. I also use a Purolator Pure One filter since the bypass pressure is very close to the OE Subaru filter spec of 26psi. Diesel oils are very robust and have a high level of detergents and soot suspenders in it, along with ZDDP.


This handy article breaks down the SAE viscosity ratings:

Motor oil - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


In a nutshell, during the summer you'll be fine with Xw-30 or Xw-40 type oil, whereas if you live in a region with cold winters you may want to consider a 5w since it will flow better at a lower temperature than a 10w or 15w. To blindly dump in 15w-40 and call it a day where I am would be a poor idea, since the expected high temperatures will be near zero. The engine will crank slower and the oil will not flow as well as a 5w or 0w oil would.

Adding additional zinc additives and other things won't really net you any benefit, especially on a truck with a roller cam. On a high performance race engine or one in a muscle car it may be something to consider.

FWIW Ford suggested 5w30 in almost everything on vehicles built prior to 2001, afterwards they changed it to suggest 5w20.

You're welcome and agreed.

Wow only 30k in 8 years, your truck must sit for long spells. For you I would add some hyperlube. Not so much a zddp additive, but a very sticky lube that coats parts and will still be in place after a while sitting while being very cost effective. Hy-per Lube Oil Supplement | Oil Stabilizer | Oil Additive Hyperlube also makes a zinc replacement that isn't actually zinc but a fancy ester oil of some complicated sort. Some say it's better then zddp, but to me the jury is out and it's pricey.

I can't really say what is the best zddp additive, I have yet to do more research on it. Google it, lot's of info out there. Let us know what you find.

I can't disagree with that, the Rotella T6 is likely a decent oil for a hot high performance turbo engine. It's your car and you know it best but on the surface Rotella would not be my choice, First choice is a tie for either a amsoil or redline 0W30 but those are pricey, second mobil1 0W30. Being a smaller tolerance roller engine 40 is rather thick, zddp isn't really needed, 0W is better and of course with the turbo a quality synthetic is a must.

This I have to disagree with, as I said above a smaller first number is almost always better. Technically even a 5W is too thick for best start up oiling in the hottest environments. The ONLY time this isn't true is when using conventional oil and not changing it often. The reason for this is that with conventional oils the base oil of a 5W is a 5, a 10W a 10, etc, to make it a 5W30 they add viscosity improvers to thicken a 5 base oil when hot. These additives are what break down, and so over time a 5W30 will eventually just be a 5, and a 10 a 10, etc. So over time it's better for a 10W30 to become a 10, then for a 5W30 to become a 5. So if you plan to change it there is no reason not to use a 5w in a daily driver.

Funny you say that cause you kinda have it but your selections are backwords. you don't need ZDDP in your WRX cause everything in that engine is roller, BUT the OP does in his 460, it's not a roller anywhere. ZDDP is all about the cam and to a minor extent a few other parts. If the cam and those other parts are roller as they are in most modern and high performance engines then there is little need for ZDDP. But in the OPs engine he certainly does, he has a flat tappet cam and non-roller rockers. Without ZDDP the life of the cam, lifters, rockers valves and guides will be shorter.

Oddly enough most diesel oils have more zddp, but the vast majority of diesel engines have roller camshafts, go figure.

Double post

In my 95 f150 roller 351 I run cat 15w-40 and I change it at 3000 mile intervals give or take a hundred miles or so and it seems to be doin really good. The truck has 112,000 miles on it with damn good oil pressure to boot! We have two 7.3 strokers and we get a good deal on the cat oil at $25 for 5 gallon so I just use what the other trucks use.

WOW, just WOW :-X15

Anyone want to make a bet on how long his oil pump drive shaft will last?

Only use 5W30 in a Ford:

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...ps0a9b3f70.jpg

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not sure what my engine with 180,000 hard miles would think of 5w-30 oil....I think I'll stick with 10w30 motorcraft semi-synthetic,thank you very much!!:D

My 1995 f150 EB extended cab flareside 5.0 with 233,000 miles enjoys the 5W30 full-synthetic.
I did replace the Main & Conn. Rod Bearings, Oil Pump & Oil Pan @ 194,818 miles before I started using the 5W30. But top the end has not been touched.

I run a semi synthetic 15w40 with a Motorcraft filter in my 93 F250 460. My truck has 178xxx on the ticker. Has service records since new. Was always at Ford and had 10w30 put in it. I change it every 4-5k or once a year(truck only used to tow or haul camper), doesn't burn or use oil.

I've had a few E-350 box vans come in my shop and had a sticker from Ford/ Motorcraft to use a 15w40 on the 460 engines. In my opinion the 460 is a heavy duty engine and needs/ deserves a heavy duty oil.

I run 0w40 in my 95 460 with 83k on it...changed it to Amsoil synthetic at 80k. Guy that is my supplier is a long time self employed mechanic....says the 0w40 is better for start ups with the 460....same thing he runs in his RV

Well yeah it's not like anything has changed since 1999:-X15

Pop quiz, what is the difference between 5w30 and 10W30?

:-drink:-jammin:-drink:-jammin:-drink:-jammin:-drink