PCV valve on a 239
 

I read on this forum, a number of years ago, about someone building a positive crankcase ventilating system for a flathead V8. I did a search for info and came up empty handed. Has anybody done this? If at all possible I would like to do this to my flathead.

The link below may be of interest

MOTOR, Flathead PCV - THE H.A.M.B.

ALBUQ F-1 (Ross) made up a simple pcv for under $10. pics in this thread:https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...or-an-8ba.html

That one that Ross did was a great idea and looks proper.

Now just in case any of you who have a multiple carb intake, you will see there is no Road Draft Port Hole.

So Under the Manifold where the pipe comes up to meet the stock Road Draft Port Hole, you can drill a hole and thread it and use a screw in Chrysler 4-6 Cly PCV. Then run a hose from that to your vacum source on the intake.

You will have to cut off a short piece of the pipe that comes up to meet the Stock Road Draft Port Hole.

I have done this on a 2 Carb intake on an Offenhauser Intake. Also if using a Close 2 Carb Intake, make sure the front of the Manifold lines up with the the Fan Pulley, if your going to use a Stock Geneator. Some are offset and your Gen., won't line up.:-X22

I've been playing with the setup I did earlier. I think the holes in the manifold wiper connection, that are inside the outer hole and go to the actual throttle bores, need to be opened up to 1/8" for best results.

You can't run vacuum wipers off the same connection.

Ross, I posted here awhile ago regarding a cure for the vacum wipers, and that was a reserve tank.

That is the old type oil filter can, use it for a vacum reserve tank. Of course you wouldn't be able to use it as an oil dilter any longer, but if you had one and wanted it to look stock there is the answer.:-X22

I remember your filter/vac can, very clever! I measured my vacuum at idle with the PCV, and it was really low, like 4", because the PCV is bleeding in more air than the passages can flow. That's why I opened up the passages.

I need manifold vacuum for my distributor and am going to add a separate connection for that. If I were running vacuum wipers, I'd do the same (with a vac can and check valve).

Thanks for all the info guys! Good ideas. I like the one about using the oil filter can as a vacuum reservoir. I am adding a full flow filter, on the frame rails, and leaving the original can on just for looks.
I see another question identical to mine and I like the idea of concealing the PCV valve under the manifold. Although my manifold is already installed I think it is worth it to remove it and make the necessary mods.
Are there any considerations such as flow I should concern myself with? Why couldn't I just drill & tap a hole, 1/4" NPT, in the bottom of one of the runners and screw the valve in there and just let it pull vapors from the lifter valley? Of course plugging the road draft tube too.

You want to preserve the Ford concept of air flow inside the crankcase, so you want to suck out of the tube that comes up the front of the block. Then you want all the cylinders to share the vapors, to avoid fouling mostly. If you're using a stock manifold, hitting one of the main runners that serves 4 cylinders, near the middle of the engine (front to rear) should be OK.

Make sure you don't drill into the exhaust heat riser passages that go under the carb!

Another thought Ross, did you seal off your oil fill breather? I have some work I have to do early in the week so I'll try & get my manifold removed later in the week.

My work failed to materialize today so I and some time to build my PCV valve setup. Here is what I ended up with:

That's an interesting concept. I would have a concern with the rubber hose deteriorating in the constant vapor environment of the insides of the engine, though. Other than that, I'll be interested to see your report on how it works in a few months.

You don't want to seal up the breather on the oil filler cap. That's where the fresh air comes in so the road draft tube or PCV valve can pull out the dirty air. It needs to be open with a clean filter mesh.

Great job, Steve! Wayne is right, the breather cap both lets in fresh air, and also lets crankcase vapors out under heavy load when there isn't enough vacuum to suck in all the vapors thru the PCV. Strictly speaking, a filter for the cap is a good idea, the steel wool in the stock cap doesn't stop much dirt. OEM systems run that to the air cleaner, outside the filter element (those crescent-shaped little filters that snap into the housing). If you ran a hose from the fill tube to the air cleaner, then you could tightly cap the fill tube.

As long as the hose is made for oil service it should be OK; it kind of looks like heater hose?

I suppose it's obvious, but you'll need to put the intake gasket on before installing your plumbing. I've had my intake off 4 times this summer, a good tip is to make up some long studs, one at the front and one at the rear, so you can drop the manifold straight down in the correct location. They aren't light!

Autoparts stores sold a kit to install PCV device on 239 flatties, why?

At one time, CA smog checked all 1950 and newer vehicles, all had to have PCV installed. Since no FoMoCo product came with PCV prior to 1961, autoparts stores did a "land office business" selling these devices to PO'd CA owners.

I thought I'd throw this out there for anyone else who is contemplating adding PCV. I have a Canadian aluminum manifold off a big truck, that has an additional vacuum port that is much bigger than the one for wipers. I believe it was for vacuum-assisted brakes. It would be perfect for PCV. After comparing it to my cast iron manifold, I believe (have not yet confirmed) that an iron manifold could be drilled similarly.

It's drilled and tapped 3/8"-NPT, with holes drilled at an angle into each throttle bore at 3/16". It would be kind of hard to drill a shallow hole and tap it, almost certainly would require a bottoming tap. Maybe you could cut down a regular tap.

Ross, my iron manifold has the 3/8"NPT port on the back of the carb flange like yours.
The hose is emission rated hose and I figured the heat shouldn't bother it as in normal duty it is conducting hot gasses back to the manifold anyway. Another thing I did that's not evident is drive an 1-1/4" expansion plug down into the hole where the road draft tube goes to plug it off. Then I installed the road draft tube and it looks stock.

Good catch on the gasket. I did try to put the manifold on only to realize the gasket has to go on before the PCV valve & associated hardware. Ad yes I do use guide studs. I have many on my truck from 1/4" up to 1".

So, how did this work out running the pcv to this other 3/8 port next to the vacume port for.the wipers? I have this on my 8BA and would like.to do the pcv thing for my flatty. Will my wipers still work and do I have to do a significant amount of re tuning? Does adding a pcv help with any slight oil consumption .

I never ran vac wipers with my PCV, my truck came with electrics. It surely wouldn't make the wipers any better.

I have an air/fuel monitoring gauge in my truck and the affect on tuning with PCV is pretty predictable; it adds air that the carb isn't accounting for, so it runs a bit leaner, particularly at off-idle loads. Not enough to really feel, but the gauge catches it. Most of these trucks with stock carbs run pretty fat anyway, so being a little leaner doesn't hurt.

I highly recommend using a Fram PCV valve #FV306, it's just the right size.

Ok, easy enough to hook up. What does better crankcase breathing accomplish? Is it a environmental thing of perhaps just a little better oil control. My engine isn't new, I resurrected it from the junkyard. It runs plenty good. What caught my eye about this retrofit is one post talked about their flatty smoking/steaming out the filler cap and draft tube. I noticed that on mine as well and was hoping to rectify that issue . Perhaps maybe have a little better oil control through better ventilation , not to mention what it might do to prevent or help with sludge formation in an older engine.

I had pretty significant blow-by smoke out of the tailpipes and smoking out of the breather due to a clogged road draft tube. I replaced the tube with an aluminum plug I turned on the lathe with O-rings that was tapped for a PCV valve. I ran the hose to the carb base. This entirely eliminated the blow-by and reduced breather smoke by 75%.

Here is a pic prior to installation:

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...a4add72fdd.png

Similar to this available in the aftermarket:

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...005b7ced2f.jpg

What pcv valve did you use. I could turn one out as well.

Don't forget to replace the stock filler/breather cap with one that has a decent filter in it. I had one for an older 302, that had a rubber stem a little larger diameter than the filler tube. I was able to shave the rubber to fit.

I don't remember, but I believe it was for a similarly sized Chrysler motor. I went to AutoZ*** and looked at the PCV valves on display. That one had male thread and was for a V6 around 4.0L. I turned the blank to exactly fit the bore then added two grooves for the o rings to provide a friction fit. Center drilled the plug and threaded to match the PCV I purchased.

I sold the motor to a friend about 3 years ago when I put a 302 in my truck, and it is still working great.