I can't find anything in the catalog about king pin sizes. Sorry.

But, you are making progress. Sometimes it is in several areas and doesn't show, but ultimately you get there.

Thanks for looking it up Gary.
Think I will have to order both kits and measure the pins.
I am thinking it is in the OD of the bushings that fit the spindles and not the pin size as I would not think Ford would also make 2 different axle beams.
Dave ----

This seems to say there were several forged axles. What I don't know is which ones had kingpins and which had ball joints.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...6ce99ab7e3.png

Thank you Gary for posting that page.


So both trucks are before "8/81" as one is 2/81 (power brakes) the other is 11/80 (non-power brakes).
Both have cast/forged axles and both 4700 GVWR


If I read that page right it looks like power is 30.1A and the 11/80 is 30.1B
I don't know what the 30 to the right of the 30.1x is or the notes (?) 4,5 to the right of that is either.


Any more light you can shed on this?
Thanks again
Dave ----

The first column, the one with the 30.1A is Parts List Section & Number. The next column is the section # in the Illustration section, and the last column is the page in that section. So, both of those are pages 4 & 5 of Section 30. Those pages have the illustrations that I think have been posted before, but if you want them I can put up a new web page for them.

As for the parts list, I can't even find it, or don't know what I'm looking at if I have. Sorry.

WOW and all they had to do was list a part number and do with out the other pages from what I can tell ;)


No need to go farther as it's looking it may not give me the information needed so going to order the 2 different kits local and get measurements of pins & OD of the bushings.
It may not be for a bit as I can use the parts truck stuff for now just to move the frame as needed.


Thanks
Dave ----

Well I had enough time slacking off so I got back at it.
The right side rocker, rear door post, cab corner welded in then fitted and welded in the floor.
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/var/r...319_200716.jpg
As you can see I also clamped the weather strip channel in place and did the same on the other side to see what is needed to install them.
Tomorrow I hope to do a little trimming of channels and a few small patches here and there and the floor should be done.

Then on to the fire wall to see what is needed to take the A/C from the rolled over parts truck and place it into this one.

Oh the king pin deal has been placed on hold for now. I can roll the truck around with the small 5x4.5 14" wheels for now and down the road do up the 5x5 15" wheels.
Dave ----

:-wink The floors, weather strip channels andpatches are all welded in only need to grind down the plug welds, prep floor before I seam seal all edges. Prepping will be to wire wheel the floor of rust and use rust encapsulate paint. After seam sealer I will use bed liner on the top & bottom of the floor.
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/var/r...320_171647.jpg
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/var/r...320_171722.jpg
I also gave another quick look at the firewalls, I still need to pull apart the parts truck to get a good look, but think I am only going to use ½, the A/C side because the left side has a brace around the master cly area. This brace goes higher than the firewall seam goes and would make it a PITA to replace the full firewall. Seam seal will be done after the firewall.
Dave ----

Looking good, Dave!

Thanks Gary
No where near as nice as your dads truck. Cant wait to see yours together or mine for that matter.
Dave ----

I like the way you did your floor pans better then the way I did mine
I welded them all the way around and on the passage side I got a head of my self and didn't spot weld the pan to the floor brace or the cab mount brace I may take that side back out an re do it I see now why you went with the tabco pans the have the cab mount holes where the lmc don't
looks like your really moving along

Willie, The cab bolt holes are only stamped you (me) need to cut the hole to access below.
I took the old pans and laid them on top of the new pans before I welded them in place and traced the openings on to the new pans.
I then took my sheet metal plasma cutter to cut the holes. I then used hand files to finish & fit the cover to the openings. Came out good but you will never see them once the covers are in place.


When I drilled the old pans out using a spot weld cutter I drilled all the way thru that brace leaving holes I could plug weld thru from below. This brace is the first place to start welding and work your way to the outsides. To press the pan down to the brace as my clamps did not have the reach I used a small air compressor pump sitting on the pan. Guess you could use weights for a weight lifting bench but I gave them all away when I moved last April.
I also have to watch the weight of the cab because I am using plastic horses at the front cab mounts and don't want them to fail under the weight.


Also note I used a air punch to punch holes around the out side of the panels that I plugged welded thru. I will grind them down smooth and the should almost look like spot welds ;) not that you will see them once the flooring is down.


After I got everything picked up and put away I was looking over my work and found I for got to weld floor pan to the kick panel on the right side.
When the welder is out for the firewall I will hit that then.


The black panels is the weather strip channels and they went up to the floor pan. I cut that off leaving a little I tucked under the floor pan and plug welded.
You can also see the patches at the other end I had to make as the weather channels did not cover it. Again I punched holes around the edges for plug welding.


The white you see around the edges of the panels is weld thru primer that I sprayed on before I put the panels in place.
Hope that will help others.
Dave ----

on my driver side I was able to save the cab mount hole and weld it in to the floor pan
that worked out pretty good although I welded it in a bit low it will be good enough


it looks like you did a joggle on the sheet metal for the cab mount hole how did you do that

I don't under stand your question.
Is it the recess around the hole I cut to access the bolts? That is how it came and matches the factory pans.
If it is something else let me know and I will try and answer it.
Dave ----

Ok that was the question the LMC pans don't come that way I was thinking that you had either saved the ones from your old pans and welded them in like I did or you did some thing to make the recess like in this picture