the wiper motor in mine makes a grinding noise.
while i was junkyarding for other items i noticed that most of the 80s trucks had the wiper motor pulled.
must have been a common problem.
my 79 f-250 i had replaced every thing but the wiper motor.
body change and design change , they must have missed the mark.

well its raining today so i wont get any welding done.
anyone know how to hook the egr up on a 86 351 windsor /1405 edlebrock?
the egr has 2 tubes and should have a lrge plastic disk that plugs to each tube.
one tube operates the valve and the other has positive pressure coming out....more throttle .. more positive pressure.
the motor has none of the stock smog , emmisions parts.
it just has all the ports plugged.
the timed port on the carb comes on too early. and causes a stutter on takeoff when the egr is hooked this way.

do i just need a delay valve? and is that what that missing disk is?

if anybody can tell me what i need to get, i will go to the junkyard and hunt it down.

fox, you might have better luck starting a thread for your question. It will be hard for people to hunt down answers in this thread.

The EGR should go to an adaptor plate under the carb, if you go to a jy, then I would look out for any heavy duty ford truck with a 4bbl carb (351w or 460), they should have this adaptor plate and the egr valve which can get expensive at the parts store.

This will only work if you have the stock intake, or an Edelbrock intake that has the egr engineered into it (not sure if the other companies make egr manifolds).

Pictures of what you do have in your engine bay help too.

As for what I did to my truck today, I replaced the clutch pack in my d44 IFS differential limited slip module today, what a PIA.

it has the stock intake and has the plate with the egr.
just stripped of everything else.
all i want ist to get the egr operational to save a little fuel.
later i may put a stock carb on her but due to lack of funds the 1405 is here for a while.
i drive a dump truck and we had a rough winter and this spring is starting slow.
i am sitting at home due to todays basement dig being rained out.
i may replace a brake line today and get something done.
i think the line from the master cycl may have a small leak.
it takes a few days , but the front resivoir is low.
i am not gettin and drips that i can tell because it is so slow.
i am thinking its in the line from the mc to the perportioning valve.
if it was behind the valve both resevours would be low.
i may play in the rain and get that done.

how bad were the clutch packs to do?

Kind of a pain, I had to make my own tool today to get the spherical washers inside the pinion mate gears.

http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/u...o/CIMG0065.jpg

This did the trick, by "loosening" the uppermost nut, it compressed the Belleville plates enough that the pinion mate gears had enough play to slide the washers into place.

I wish I would have taken a picture of it in action, but alas, my d44 IFS front end is becoming more and more assembled today! :-jammin


To hook up your EGR, there should be one vacuum line going to it from the ported or "spark" vac port on your carb. But it should go through a temperature switch in the thermostat housing first. If I still had my 302, I would show you pics that I had of it, but it is long gone.

good deal a home made tool thats cheap and works.

i got the line changed and it looks like the old one had rusted at the fitting.
when i tried to loosen it up and she broke.

iwas going to run the egr through the temp switch.
is there a delay va;lve i will need ?
looks like there were a lot of missing peices.
did they run through a solinoid switch too?
i am not familiar with newer fords just my 79 250.
on my 88 dodge they have all kinds of crazy things

My gauges are not finished. I painted the case chrome, the gauge faces silver and the needles and numbers red. I would highly recommend doing it for everyone. Keep in mind I have no idea how bright it will be but I'd assume better than stock and looks cool!

Today I changed the thermostat in my truck.

Make sure and post pics when you get done. I painted the gauge cluster cover red (the part that says "unleaded fuel only" and the gauge names like "fuel", "oil", etc.) and it looks pretty good. I wanted it to look like anodized aluminum, but I had already hit it with several coats before reading the can -thoroughly- and realizing I needed to apply a special prep paint to get the shiny look. Oh well, flat red looks fine anyway lol

Today I had planned to replace the starter bolts (old ones like to keep backing out) and just see if my old Pioneer head unit would fit in the glovebox as part of a hidden stereo system....but one thing led to another and I ended up converting both my AM/FM Ford radio as well as the HVAC controls to light up red at night.

I converted the radio once before but I converted it back shortly after since it was too dim...but I'll deal with it this time lol. I've been wanting to do the HVAC controls all year though, and thanks to ctubutis' how-to on converting it, it's now done and looks great! I still need to grab a pack of red 168s from the parts store so it'll be blood red instead of tomato red though. lol

Then after that I might still do the valve cover on my mom's jeep. The current cover is warped and the gasket's shot, so I have an aluminum one and new gasket(s) to put on.

I apologize from the start for the length of this post, but....

Some of you may remember that I got into this pickup because I was looking for a bed to replace the crushed one on my father's '81 4WD - which I plan to restore when the 91 year-old is done w/it. Last summer my brother called from my home town, about 100 mi away, to say he'd found it, although it was bolted to a complete pickup that, the owner said, would run although it hadn't in a couple of years. So, I bought it and, a LWB bed full of money later, I have a functional pickup - the '82 Explorer.

Well, today he called again. Literally 2 blocks from where the 1st truck was found he's found another. It's a complete '82 XLT 2WD w/a 351 Windsor. Said to have an very straight bed and tailgate, but doesn't run since the engine is in many pieces having spun the crank bearings.

Suffice to say that tomorrow truck #1 is pulling a trailer to get truck #2. And, in prep I replaced the thermostat since the temp hasn't been getting into the normal range - even after changing the instruments, so obviously the 'stat was stuck open. Except, that after replacing the 'stat the temp is still low. So, it is probably the sending unit, which is a much easier change than a thermostat.

Anyway, I'll let you know how it goes.

Im sorry to say that my beloved 86 f150 is going to scrap due to another blown aod transmission. I would fix it but it came to the point now where its not worth it to me to fix it. so if anyone in minnesota around cambridge needs parts or a decent set of 35s on aluminum rims pm me. the truck is in my gallery. by the way i just rebuilt the t case 2 weeks ago.

Have you looked at converting it over to a C6? Should bolt right up for the most part. They're very tough transmissions...

:(

Oh boy, I forgot all about the HVAC controls. Damn looks like I have to do ctb's method to get that done. I'm working on getting a pic up right now, and yea my red isn't shiny like I hoped for. Please let me know how the red bulbs work with the red lines (if that is what you did)...Be nice to know I am headed towards failure prior to putting everything back together lol.

AOD transmission and 35" tires are not a good mix. Even geared quite low in the diffs, it takes a lot to turn those 35" tall tires, and the AOD just isn't up to the task in stock form. Even a highly modified AOD can lead a shortened life span trying to turn those tires, especially if the TV rod/cable is not set just right.