Thank you Scott. You take care of your back too. They don't get any better as we get older.
Mark

I think all of us guys that have done hard work can relate to the back problems. I have one scar on my back and need another, but I'm still going. Changed careers two years ago from heavy truck and equipment mechanic to maintenance supervisor at a small state park to try to relieve some of the pain. Keep on working on that rig as you feel like it, it'll be waiting on you when you don't.

Thanks for the reply, Jeff. I will keep plugging along at it as I can. It's not going anywhere. If you ever get up this way, stop in!
Mark

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...a431af69ec.jpg
A small update. My friend dropped off the panels above and below he grill. Now as soon as I get the grill powder coated I can install the grill. Then assemble the fenders when he gets them finished.
Mark

That's looking good, Mark. Shiny parts are motivators. How did you attach your FORD letters? We've had discussions about how some of our members have done it. The first time, I used the little single use press-on backers that came with the letters. At least one of the letters wasn't quite tight, and in just a short time started to damage the paint. The second time, I glued my letters on with 3M 5200. There is no movement this time. Removal may be difficult, but getting the little backers off was not easy either.

Jim

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...e963373b9b.jpg
Mine has these screws and straps. Are the later ones different?

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...2673dcec54.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...6cfe290583.jpg
Jim, I just have the letters setting in the holes. I'm using the letters that came on the truck originally. They are not perfect, but I think they will look fine.
Thanks, Mark

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...a033b8b800.jpg
Thanks to Bob, bobj49f2, for the measurements, I was able to drill my grill for the stainless steel strips that my son gave me for Christmas a couple of years ago. Since I'm not man enough to hand crank the diesel, he got me the set without the crank hole}>.
Thanks again,
Mark

Mark, what you have for fastening your letters looks great. I bought replacement letters, and as mentioned, they came with single use press-on backers. Getting the backers on tight enough to prevent movement was hit or miss and removing them was a royal pain. Your original letters should work out fine for you. I kept mine, but they are much more pitted than yours.

Jim

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...3bab2b0315.jpg
This grey matches the original color of the hinges pretty closely.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...3fdb52baf1.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...39b7cdc7ba.jpg
I picked up my running boards and hood hinges at the powder coater today. I had the running boards done in the same hammered black as my bed. It is a little thicker than gloss black and hides a few of the blemishes. My running boards like my bed aren't perfect. I think they turned out good.
Thanks, Mark

Looks perfect to me. I like that hammered finish.

Thanks Bob. I set them in place on the truck and they do look good.
Mark

We need picture proof of how good they look, Mark. Let us be the judge. :D
JK, but you know that.:-X22

Thanks, Ray. Hopefully Saturday I can back it out of the shed and get some pics.
Mark

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...404f7528a2.jpg
The dark spot on the door is a spot inside the lense of my camera.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...1a840a1b12.jpg
Here is a photo of the running board on the truck. I still haven't had a chance to bolt the running boards on and pull the truck out of the shed to take a photo. I also got my grill back from the powder coater and installed the strips.
Thanks, Mark

Lookin good!

What Scotty's 52 F3 said above. :-X22:-X22:-X22

Thank You Scotty and Ray! I appreciate the kind words.
Mark

A little more progress
 

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...ef770e2bbd.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...cab91c5de0.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...ef079ddbff.jpg
I bolted the running boards and grill assembly on today. The headlight and parking light doors will need to be polished and the headlights will need new wiring. The bumper is from a '51 F5, mine is bent pretty badly. I will have to weld the license plate bracket holes and move them to the right side if I decide to put the bracket back on.
Thanks, Mark

I finished the front shock install today.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...3c43fd157f.jpg
Here is a photo of the passenger side installed. I took it for a drive to my brothers house, about 3/4 mile away. I am amazed at how much smoother it rides with the springs cleaned and the shocks installed. It doesn't ride like the same truck. It doesn't squeak anymore either.
I also got the hood installed last week while my sons were home.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...71bf553227.jpg
The more I see the red and black, the more I like it.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...f2a1495a09.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...c399f2b415.jpg
I was a little concerned about the color match between the cab and hood. I painted the cab 11 years ago and I had a friend of mine paint the hood about 2 weeks ago. I used Dupont Nason urethane fleet paint in Holly Red. I bought 2 gallons about 10 years apart. Being a fleet color it is off the shelf, factory mixed. I think the color match is pretty good in these two photos.
I also installed the bench seat out of the '51 F6 fire truck I bought. I think I will recolor the vinyl, it is grey now, to match the brown headliner I have and keep the seat in the truck. We will use the bucket seats I bought in my son's '69 Bronco.
I have to push the back of the hood down a little when it is closed. I don't know if it is an adjustment issue or I need new springs?
Thanks, Mark

Woohoo update, thanks. It looks great. Glad it's smooth riding now

Thank you, I appreciate the kind words.
Mark

Mark
A neat job on the shocks.
I'll remember when I go to paint my truck to pick a off the shelf factory mixed color like that. If you ever need the paint touched up just get another can. I am glad to see your truck is coming together so nicely.
Nelson

It looks like a perfect match.

Eleven years? What happened? But you moving now!

Thank you, Nelson. I appreciate it.
BTW,I sent you an e-mail a few minutes ago.
Mark

Thanks, Abe. Yes, I am tickled with the color match. I've only been able to work on it over the years as I have the time and money. It seems like I don't always have both at the same time for some reason :confused:
Mark

Another small update
 

I have the two speed axle out of the '51 F6 painted and ready to install in my F4.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...fe401d9dec.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...a3254e5bd2.jpg
Last Saturday I removed the back cover and pinion seal. I used my spray nozzle and rinsed the inside out really well with kerosene. Everything looked like new inside, but I guess it should with only 22,000 miles. I painted it yesterday after a good cleaning on Wednesday. Tomorrow I will pull the Timken axle out of my truck and remove the brakes and hubs and install them on the two speed. Hopefully tomorrow evening I can have this axle under my truck. I will have to make a new rear driveshaft as this axle has a larger u-joint than my F4. If it had been out of F5 the driveshaft would have been the same as my F4 single speed. I will be pulling the gears, 5.83 ratio, out of my Timken axle to send to Nelson, nsboyd1210, for the front axle of his '50 F5 M-H.
Thanks, Mark

Mark,

Keep in mind there are conversion/combination/adapter u-joints available. These u-joints convert from one dimension to another.

Here is a neat little chart that shows Spicer u-joint dimensions:
131 1306 02+double Jointed U Joint Differences+u Joint Sizes - Photo 51023856 - Double Jointed - U-Joint Differences

Here is an example of a conversion u-joint:
https://www.jegs.com/i/Yukon-Gear/80...BoCHeoQAvD_BwE

My F5 uses 1350 u-joints. I wonder if the F6 takes a 1410.

Nelson

Hi Nelson, Yes the F6 does use a 1410 u-joint. My F4 uses the 1350 u-joint like your F5. I hadn't even thought of using a conversion u-joint. Thank you for the tip, I will go that route.
Thanks again, Mark

DAMN! You do GREAT work!

I see I'm not the only one that can't always get to my build. Time or money issues. Throw in family tragedy and projects get stalled. Thanks for the update.
Scott

Thank you, Scott. Yes, life does get in the way once in a while.
Thanks again, Mark

Out with the old and in with the new
 

The two speed axle is in the truck. I still have to bolt it in place. I thought the axle straps for the u-bolts were the same, but the two speed has a larger diameter tube. So, I will have to clean up and paint the straps for the two speed.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...51ef5d8650.jpg
Here you can see the difference in the straps.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...12fac2f4a2.jpg
The old axle
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...85e09ee052.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...792a252c83.jpg
I also have to readjust the brakes, wheel bearings and make a new brake line for the axle itself. My drive shaft will work with a combination u-joint to adapt it to the larger yoke on the axle. Thanks, Nelson for the tip. Once I have the axle install finished to where the truck is driveable again, I will run the vacuum line and install the controls for the axle.
Thanks, Mark

Your truck is looking great, Mark! It looks like the lug pattern of the two speed rear is the same as the old rear. That two speed looks like a nice option for a better road speed.

Thanks! Howard. The backing plates, brakes, hubs, and axle shafts are off of the single speed axle that I took out. I had the brakes all done and painted on the other axle. Those parts are all interchangeable between the single speed and two speed axles. The axle shafts from the '51 two speed aren't threaded for the jack screws though, which I need to install my hub caps, so I'm using my '49 axles. The two speed won't gain me any more speed as I already had the same 5.83 gears in the single speed, but it will allow me to split shift to keep the RPMs in the power band of the diesel, at least that is my plan.;) You probably have 5.14 or 5.83 gears in your F4. A two speed would really make a difference in driveability if the truck had 6.66 gears.
Mark

Thanks for clarifying, Mark. So the two speed adds more options for the lower ranges but not higher speeds. That's good to know. Looking good!

I have the u-bolts and spring clips, as Ford calls them, back on the axle. I have to finish torqueing the u-bolts to 285-330 ft lbs. I cleaned up and installed the rest of the hood trim this afternoon. I also have the block machined to mount the shift cable for the two speed axle on the gear shift stick. Photos to follow.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...3b5746f34c.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...ded1f55ed0.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...6ec4fcb296.jpg
Once I mount this permanently on the stick, I will probably use heat shrink tube to hold the cable in place. Before I mount it permanently I may heat and bend the stick over toward the passenger side a little. Right now, as it is, I can't get my knee between the knob and the steering wheel to put my foot on the brake when the transmission is in second gear. I may also modify my brake pedal rod to lower the pedal about an inch. If I do that, I will put a stop block on the pedal also to set the pedal height.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...a0f07dd0a6.jpg
I am thinking about mount this badge somewhere on the back of the hood. I had it on the door next to the F4 emblem, but I think it looks better here. What do you all think?
Thanks, Mark

I'd put it under the F4 Emblem. But that is me.

That is where I first intended to put it, but it is too long. The fender seal covers part of it up.
Thanks, Mark

I worked on the truck some yesterday and today. I have the wheel bearings adjusted and axles back in, the wheels on and torqued to 475ft lbs, filled the axle with oil, made and installed the new brake lines, and installed the new bellows dust boot on the axle shift diaphragm. I couldn't find 90W gear oil locally, although 140W is available, so I used Mystic 85-140W oil that has a MT- 1, GL- 6 rating. With the MT- 1 rating, if I understand correctly, it should be yellow metal safe. Thanks to Stu sending me a copy of the Eaton axle service handbook, I was able to fill the axle with the proper amount of oil. Everything I have read said that the Eaton 1350 axle used 13 pints of oil. The Eaton manual said to fill thru the back cover 13 pints, which will just start to run out the hole. Then replace the fill plug and add one more pint thru the fill hole in the top of the differential. So, it actually takes 14 pints. I also drilled and tapped four 7/16" bolts to install the rear hubcaps. Here are the pics.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...62dff152bf.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...5fa7cec760.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...4a74f83104.jpg

The new bellows on the shift diaphragm.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...d19b5e0f05.jpg
I still need to bleed the rear brakes and build and install the driveshaft. I was going to use a combination joint and just reuse my old driveshaft, but I couldn't find a combo joint locally. I did some digging in my parts stash and found I have enough parts to build a driveshaft to use the larger joints, so I will do that.
Thanks, Mark

Very nice Mark. I have a couple of questions. Where were you able to chase down a boot for the diaphragm linkage, and what did you use to torque the wheel nuts?

That's going to be such a fun truck to drive! It's a shame the fender gets in the way of the area below the F-4 emblem because it would be a great spot for it. The rear side of the hood should look good too though.