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Defiantly try the shim, you have nothing to lose. For the preload, it can be equated by the turn of the bolt. I'm too lazy to do the math, but if you call the rocker manufacturer, i bet they could tel you. For my scorpions, it was between a quarter and one full turn after zero lash to specified torque. Worth a call to them.
Might I ask how you are performing the test? Is the lifter pumped? Packed? Or are you using a lighter spring? So long as its not collapsing, you're alright. |
Just me but I think .060 preload may be too much for the lifter to handle. The patterns look fine. Too much preload and the valves will stay open. You could try running it like that and see if that's the case. Then if they do, add shims to loosen them up
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Originally Posted by baddad457
(Post 18464390)
Just me but I think .060 preload may be too much for the lifter to handle. The patterns look fine. Too much preload and the valves will stay open. You could try running it like that and see if that's the case. Then if they do, add shims to loosen them up
would it do any harm to use both of the shims I have at the same time under different valves that is one under intake one under exhaust oh I forgot I get to have a tooth removed today how fun! |
Originally Posted by schoo
(Post 18464770)
would it do any harm to use both of the shims I have at the same time under different valves that is one under intake one under exhaust oh I forgot I get to have a tooth removed today how fun! |
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https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...77b8f9041.jpeg Again shined .0239 preload is .030-.028 number 4 is on the left in 3 on the rt ex |
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It’s too cold in the shop to do more today |
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I wouldn't worry about the pushrods as long as they're not rubbing the head. If they do, then you can use hardened pushrods here. These were made for use with guide plates which are harder than the cast iron heads.
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Originally Posted by baddad457
(Post 18468128)
I wouldn't worry about the pushrods as long as they're not rubbing the head. If they do, then you can use hardened pushrods here. These were made for use with guide plates which are harder than the cast iron heads.
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Your torque converter is ballooned and shouldn't be used. Nice build BTW.
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Are you using checking springs?
I'm trying to do exactly the same thing right now, but I'm using Comp's checking springs, and they're not stiff enough for the roller tips to leave a mark in the ink. But if I try that on the real spring, I force the plunger in the lifter down, effectively making the pushrod shorter than it actually is. Maybe I should find a different marker and try again with the checking springs. |
I used a Moroso set of checking springs that you could compress with your fingers & genuine "dry erase" marker pen...
Yielded a pretty nice witness mark. |
For what its worth I used a dry erase marker and packed my lifter with washers so it was solid.
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I checked 10 and the pattern were the same as far as I could tell but the preload was a little inconsistent range was.028 thru .038 I didn’t note which were which I’m fighting the cold in the shop and came back in |
Originally Posted by 70f100longbed
(Post 18469565)
Your torque converter is ballooned and shouldn't be used. Nice build BTW.
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Good guy
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...20ac8b35f.jpeg I got my fuel injectors back today Mr. injector did a great job |
OK, I need to get some dry erase markers. I don't want to disassemble my lifters; I just know that if I try, I'm going to get springs shooting into the dark corners of my garage, never to be found again.
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https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...5aac81e1c.jpeg It’s amazing what can get done if the snow melts |
Originally Posted by schoo
(Post 18474486)
It’s amazing what can get done if the snow melts Your engine is looking good! |
Originally Posted by fordman75
(Post 18474524)
Must be nice!! I look out my window as more snow falls.:-roll. :-X04
Your engine is looking good! |
Originally Posted by schoo
(Post 18474541)
the weatherman says the snow is back Tuesday thru the rest of the week but I leave for Tucson Monday |
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...587dbfa21.jpeg Need to get another material list going and spark plugs are on that list a friend said auto light 764? What do you guys think |
Nice work. Very clean. Will complement your classic just right.
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I rotated the engine with the valve covers laying on the heads and could not hear or feel the rocker hit the covers do you think I’m ok or should I remove the baffling at the filler and pcv |
You got me on that one. No gasket & just sitting there, I'd say it's OK.
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They clear the steel covers not the baffles in the aluminum ones. The Cobra 5.0's had double layer steel covers with the Cobra rockers. As for spark plugs the plain jane Autolite/Motorcraft copper plugs last as long as the fancy ones.
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Originally Posted by baddad457
(Post 18475098)
They clear the steel covers not the baffles in the aluminum ones. The Cobra 5.0's had double layer steel covers with the Cobra rockers. As for spark plugs the plain jane Autolite/Motorcraft copper plugs last as long as the fancy ones.
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Fun thread - excited to see it through! You're getting close now...
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Back from Tucson warm (70’) but so nice here 30 sometiming and snowing off and on now for 3 week pain in the a$$ to work in the shop I’ve been painting parts using a hair dryer in one hand a spray can in the other hopefully get it back in the truck soon |
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Primed the oil system and put the exhaust manifolds on. going to rig the cherrypicker tomorrow https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...43d321d0f.jpeg |
Having problem with getting the studs on the torque converter to line up with the flex plate. I get real close but no go I get 2 in but the others are off just a little maybe a 1/4 of the stud I’m wondering if turning the engine while pushing on the engine. wish I had the front core off probably 50 -60 bolts holding that together. |
Got to align the bellhousing to the block before the TC will line up. You should be able to get the trans and engine together and rock the TC back and forth a little in the flexplate. DO NOT use the bellhousing bolts to draw the engine and trans together! This can damage the trans pump in a hurry. I have some long bolts i cut the heads off of to use as guide pins. Make sure the dowel pins are in the block. Also, did you do anything about the wear marks on the converter? To me it looks like the converter has ballooned which would explain the excessive thrust bearing wear.
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You've got the bell housing flush tight with the engine (No angle or gaps) & only 2 studs line up?
I use a pry bar or big screw driver to turn the flex plate pivoting on the edge of the trans case. Slow & a pain if not careful, but it works. |
The trans guy said it was the flex plate I’m not sure of anything. As far as lining the bell and block I don’t have very much room between the rack and pinion and the oil pan so it has about 1” where I can get the block and the bell lined up parallel yes the alignment pins in the block are just engaged into the bell but the studs are just touching the flex plate 2 studs are in there holes but the two at the top of the TC are hanging up like the flex plate is not the correct one. I did lay the old one on top of the new FP and they looked exactly the same. Frozz my but yesterday even with the sun. today snowing again |
Is the trans bolted down & you're mating it with the hoist?
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