Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
(Post 10023981)
Any suggestions on that? I guess even if I did paint it black I could cover that if I do figure out how to do the bezels. But, what did a base model have when equipped with cruise? |
Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
(Post 10023981)
I'm seriously considering replacing my woodgrained instrument and radio bezels with the black base-level trim I've picked up. At least until I can figure out how to replace the woodgrain. But, RW brings up a problem I have as well - the woodgrained cruise horn bar.
Any suggestions on that? I guess even if I did paint it black I could cover that if I do figure out how to do the bezels. But, what did a base model have when equipped with cruise? |
Search your local junkyard!
I have a spare steering wheel as well with all the features!:-whud
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Shoveled the bed full of snow for additional ballast so that I could get around. Crazy Iowa weather. It was 70F just a little over a week ago and when I got up on Saturday we had 6”-8” of snow and 14F.
Not sure if this really counts as something I did to my truck but it’s all I have. Guess I have to live vicariously through you other guys for now. |
After much thought, the mustang rims just aren't going to fit and the thought of 1.5" wheel spacers scares me....
On a good note i found a set of 15" Cragar's locally and picked those up this evening. http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/6751/cragars.jpg http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/9049/cragar2.jpg |
The dash in my 86 was a little worn looking and I decided to give the Dupli Color vinyl paint a try. The Darker red matched up perfectly but it had no shine after I put it on. I had a can of Dupli Color, clear wheel paint that was left over from when I painted my grandson's wheels last summer.
I tried it on the back of the door panel and it worked great, no problems between the two paints. My dash looks like new now. I did one of my door panels to see how it would look. It came out good considering the top of it is pretty well gone. The Dupli Color Wheel clear is supposed to be impervious to brake fluid, gasoline etc. so, it should stand up to soda and other spills that take place on the dash. |
Old, I would use several coats like 3-4 on that dash pad. I just painted the entire interior in my 84. I pulled all the seats, dash, trim, moldings etc. Even the seatbelts with duplicolor. I used about 3 coats of duplicolor and then I also used about 4 coats of clear coat and I am doing one final coat. It looks damn good!
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Replaced my headlight dimmer switch (the floor button) with Motorcraft part today. Easy job. My "Hi-Beam" indicator had stopped working, and replacing the bulb didn't fix it. Well, replacing the dimmer switch didn't fix it either. My headlights work, and the hi-low beam function works, just not the indicator bulb. So I figure the problem is the headlight switch.
I got a new headlight switch, but the old one is a serious pain in the butt to remove! It seems to require a contorted reach up under the dash to even get to it, with everything in the way. But that is my next job, since the Hi-Beam indicator is now the only light on my truck that doesn't work. Somehow I'll have to reach up there and get to it. |
Ditto!
Originally Posted by Galendor
(Post 10028769)
Replaced my headlight dimmer switch (the floor button) with Motorcraft part today. Easy job. My "Hi-Beam" indicator had stopped working, and replacing the bulb didn't fix it. Well, replacing the dimmer switch didn't fix it either. My headlights work, and the hi-low beam function works, just not the indicator bulb. So I figure the problem is the headlight switch.
I got a new headlight switch, but the old one is a serious pain in the butt to remove! It seems to require a contorted reach up under the dash to even get to it, with everything in the way. But that is my next job, since the Hi-Beam indicator is now the only light on my truck that doesn't work. Somehow I'll have to reach up there and get to it. might not be the offending part! When the headlight switch fails, your headlights will "modulate", you might want to pull the instrument cluster out again to clean & ajust the spring pressure against the copper surface as "off-road" conditions will weaken the 2 prongs that make contact! This has been the culprit for all of my guage light failures (not counting burned out ones)! My truck served as the main workhorse when I was self employed in the hvac business & has been the family hunting vehicle for 20 years of traversing the worst roads that north Idaho has to offer! |
Btw, use extreme care &
Read a repair manual to properly remove the spedometer cable & link to
the auto/trans if yours is so equipped. (I have the manual 3+od) :-X0A6 |
Ebodell, the "other Erik"? That would normally indicate scandinavian roots as in my case!
Eric, or Erich is the German version. About 5 yrs of my youth was spent in Finland & I am still strongly bi-lingual with swedish as my second language & a "working knowledge" in several others. Do you share a simmilar background? |
Originally Posted by Galendor
(Post 10028769)
I got a new headlight switch, but the old one is a serious pain in the butt to remove! It seems to require a contorted reach up under the dash to even get to it, with everything in the way. ... Somehow I'll have to reach up there and get to it.
dash pad and front cluster bezel (and maybe the cluster itself if you have AC ductwork getting in the way). |
Temporarily bypassed heater core
Sooo...I'm on my way in to work today when I noticed that familiar smell of antifreeze in the cab. I just replaced my heater core back in December and two thoughts run through my mind, "I just replaced that thing" and since I'm still 15 miles from work, "Lord, I hope I make the rest of the way into work without any problems". I glanced at the temperature gauge and it was still within the "normal" range, high end of it but holding steady. Arrived into the station to find antifreeze dripping from the passenger side undercarriage and condensation on the inside of windshield. No leaks on floorboard or from heater core connections under hood. So, when I had some down time between running calls I bypassed the heater core, filled radiator with water and ran engine to operating temperature. Everything seems to be ok. Now when I get off work Friday and get home that HC is going back to NAPA!!!
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Originally Posted by BMcT
(Post 10032153)
Sooo...I'm on my way in to work today when I noticed that familiar smell of antifreeze in the cab. I just replaced my heater core back in December and two thoughts run through my mind, "I just replaced that thing" and since I'm still 15 miles from work, "Lord, I hope I make the rest of the way into work without any problems". I glanced at the temperature gauge and it was still within the "normal" range, high end of it but holding steady. Arrived into the station to find antifreeze dripping from the passenger side undercarriage and condensation on the inside of windshield. No leaks on floorboard or from heater core connections under hood. So, when I had some down time between running calls I bypassed the heater core, filled radiator with water and ran engine to operating temperature. Everything seems to be ok. Now when I get off work Friday and get home that HC is going back to NAPA!!!
Napa used to have good copper cores. Last one I got there was a cheap aluminum one. Probably made in Mexico too. |
Dropped my tank today and found that my sending unit problems was a float full of fuel.
Cleaned the tank and glassed the bottom because it was starting to rust a bit. After it all hardened, I painted it really good with flat black Rustoleum. I'll put it back in tomorrow after I get the new float and roll-over valve. |
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