finished trimming out my fenders:

https://farm6.static.flickr.com/5058...526b7dd4c7.jpg

https://farm6.static.flickr.com/5052...0e7dbeb9d2.jpg

Thats a rusty sumbuck! I didn't get jack done on my pickup this weekend to cold to paint outside so I got my interior clear coated. Got another big order on the way. Been putting in a jacuzzi tub, tiling, hanging drywall, running electrical plumbing and lighting lol fun stuff but not nearly as fun as my pickup.

Let me put it to you this way, when I drive I rest my left foot on the actual frame rail.

How hard is it to replace the lower ball joint on my 85 f150 2wd & what special tools will I need

Thanks
okiepc1

I fixed the holes in my roof, and replaced my speakers in the cab

http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/ar....jsp?id=198389
How to Press Out a Truck's Lower Ball Joint: How to Replace a Truck Ball Joint | eHow.com
How to Install a Truck's Lower Ball Joint: How to Replace a Truck Ball Joint | eHow.com

ctubutis, thank you, I can do that.

okiepc1

Wow, two posts in one day...

Picked up a dual battery setup out of a '90 diesel in the JY today. Tried it out in a '83 at the JY and it fits like a glove.

Picked up a front differential and inner rh shaft at the jy today (differential is just in case the one I have has melted....) I actually needed just the inner rh shaft. 39 bucks.

Also replaced left rear wheel cylinder as the bleed valve broke off.

Started disassembly of the dana 44 ifs that is in two pieces in my garage. Went to drain it and found it dry (good thing I picked up the other one...)

The only differences between the two third members that I can see is my stock one has a bolt-in inner rh axle and limited slip, whereas the one I picked up at the j.y. has the c-clip retainer for the shaft and is open.

I have all new u-joints for these once I break it down, I will see what else is needed.

Installed the battery tray I picked up yesterday...

https://farm6.static.flickr.com/5097...4d88b1aa12.jpg

Don't really need it yet, but it's there.

Ran the dog doo out of mine today, 13 hrs plowing.. $$$$$

Hmmm, maybe I should start keeping an eye out for one of those. I have a crazy idea to swap in a 6.9L IDI/C6 if/when my 300/C6 combo gives up the ghost. I can't help but think a 6.9L IDI/C6 and my 2.75 rear gears will yield somewhere in the low 20's for MPG, especially with a turbo.

Well I woulda posted what's been going on with my truck these past two weeks, but I've been so busy with work that I haven't had a chance to get on!

So first, I got some new tires.....

225/70/R15s up front on stock 15x6 steelies...

275/60/R15s out back on stock 15x6 steelies.

After having the fronts done, I drove down the road to Hobby Lobby to pick up something up for a friend. Nearing the door, I get ambushed by girl scouts and end up with a box of peanut butter and chocolate cookies.

Came back out to find one front tire nearly flat. Limped it back to Pep Boys and had it looked at. Turns out the guy who mounted the tires put the metal valve stems on wrong. They have two rubber seals per valve stem, one inner and one outer. The guy put both on the inside, which made for a pretty bad seal. They fixed it all up, rebalanced everything, and got me back in business.

I'm kinda glad it all happened though, since I ended up finding out my balljoints are pretty raggedy. Hopefully that can be a summer project.

Also got a nice little oil breather cap...the kind with the built-in filter and no opening for a PCV valve/plastic elbow. Looks good, was only $6 and I'm quite pleased with it.

Then I decided I wanted to paint the gauge cluster bezel (the one behind the clear plastic lens, that says "Fuel", "Oil", "Temp", etc.)....red paint on a black part didn't work too well, so I hit it with some white primer and tried again. Much better results, but I failed to read the notice on the can of "Anodized-Aluminum look" spraypaint...."For non-metallic surfaces: use X-Chrome Converter prior to painting"....

So I ended up with a sort of blood red color instead of the bright and shiny red I expected.

Ain't so bad, it actually looks darn good against all the black dash parts and such. If I ever find my spare bezel I'll paint that one the right way and see how it looks.



I'll try and get some pictures soon.

fixed the issue that was becoming worse with my starter. it always made a heck of a noise when I turned the key, but always started right up. the past couple of days though it would make a "whirring" sound from time to time on the first turn, then engage after another try. I got under to take it out and bring to my neighbor to look at (he runs a starter/alternator shop) I realized that one of the long bolts that holds it together was missing. he had one and he tore it apart and replaced the drive as well and whatever else he felt wasn't right for me, when I asked him what I owed him for the parts and work he just waived me off, God I love living in the kind of small town where folks waive to each other and such.

I had a similar problem with my last starter, but in my case I had a chipped drive gear....it was sticking out for too long and the flywheel was tearing it up when the engine started running.

I had my rear tires mounted at Walmart here (instead of getting it done at Pepboys like I did with the fronts....see above), and even though I had a mount and balance done, they just charged me for the mounting. $10 instead of like $20. They said it gave 'em something to do, cuz it was almost closing time...lol