A friend of mine just gave me 4 nearly new Uniroyal 15" raised white letter tires but I don't know if I can use them or not. What size is the smallest I can use without it looking weird?

okiepc1

Common size for these stock as 215/75-15, but I've seen stock trucks with as small as 195/75-15 from the factory......

The '82's came with 2 sizes: 215R75x15 standard, and 235R75x15 optional. Mine had the 215's and it wasn't bad. My dad's has the 235's and they are better. As I've already posted, I put 30x9.5's on and they are good!

Assuming what you've been given isn't one of those sizes, go to TireRack and look up the rolling radius of what you have as opposed to the above tires to get an idea of how they'd be. And, you can even see them on the truck, although TR doesn't have our series but the next generation when you pull up the picture.

Btw, coming to meet/greet w/us? Tentative dates are either the 12th or 19th of March at my shop.

These are 205X75X15 raised white letter and I kid you not they can't have 100 miles on them.
I going to try to make it to the meeting, will see as date gets closer.

decided to do the Duraspark II changeover today and took the wiring out of a 79,both are 300 6 cyl's,the engine wiring does not match up from 79 to a 86, am thankful i had another truck to rob the wiring off of,still have to do the dizzy and carb which i have tomarrow,sure was alot of wiring to dismantle but its getting there,was more time consuming than anything

Today, after much cursing, burning skin and gasoline in the eyes, I pulled out the fuel tank selector valve that was installed with the Holley Pro-Jection EFI system, and re-installed the factory tank selector valve. I now have use of both of my gas tanks. Oh, and, I found a timing light in the basement.

today i stripped about 3 trucks,80-94 f series .getting them ready for scrap,but selling what we can.seeing how my boss has a endless supply of fords!

jimbo

Any XLS trim in that endless supply of Fords?

my stock size was 205/75R15

I put some new polyurethane body mounts on my 1980 F250

Finished axle swap, now my speedo is accurate!

Also installed rear sway bar from donor truck. such a difference in ride it is unbelievable. Now I have to hurry and swap the front end over (she's leaning forward now.)

Finished the brake job, bled the system, and then did the "seating in" process that was prescribed for the front pads but which I conveniently forgot when RW and I went to the parts store.

Then I took it to the tire shop. Unfortunately they don't have camber & caster info in their computer and I didn't take the FSM. But, at least they set the toe-in and will finish the job next week when I take it back along w/the spec's. In any event, it drives MUCH better. Amazing what all new bushings front and rear awa new shocks will do for a ~30 year old vehicle - especially one that relies heavily on the bushings for alignment. And, the bumps & clunks are gone! :cool:

As for the brakes, yet another transformation: From serious pulsation to perfectly smooth. From "I think I can stop this thing" to "No prob". But, given that the rotors & drums were turned, new pads, linings, and rear wheel cylinders were installed, and the front calipers where freed from their rusted-in-place captivity, maybe the brakes should work like new.

So, like someone else said, I'm closing in on having a new truck.

What process is that??
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My pads are Hawk, and they say "Correct brake pad break-in (bedding) is important to assure quality braking performance over the life of the pad. This procedure allows the rubbing surface of the brake pad to be brought to temperatures, creating a transfer-film layer of friction material to be applied to the rotor surface. This allows the brake pad material to rub against itself rather than the bare rotor. This increases the stopping performance of the brake pad and can reduce pad and rotor wear."

To do that they say:

1. After installing new brake pads, make 6-to-10 stops from approximately 30-35 MPH applying moderate pressure.
2. Make an additional 2-to-3 hard stops from approximately 40-45 MPH.
3. DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
4. Allow at least 15 minutes for the brake system to cool down.
5. After step 4 is completed, your new Hawk Performance brake pads are ready for use.

finished up my DSII swap and really impressed how much nicer the 300 6 runs, now onto the body repair if weather stays nice http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...jeeps001-2.jpg